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farmhouse dining table (cypress wood)

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Forum topic by Weezie posted 02-21-2018 03:22 PM 946 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Weezie

3 posts in 299 days


02-21-2018 03:22 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question tip

Making Cypress wood farmhouse table….I am at point of finishing the table top….

I would like advice on staining? sealing? I would like to stain more of brown and less red from the cypress.

I would also like dining room grade sealer and not glossy finish? Waterlox or Arm R Seal? Any direction appreciated.


12 replies so far

View John Smith's profile

John Smith

1489 posts in 367 days


#1 posted 02-21-2018 08:38 PM

Weezie – just curious – how did you fabricate the table top ?
photos of your project would be interesting to see

-- I started out with nothing in life ~ and still have most of it left.

View Lazyman's profile

Lazyman

2641 posts in 1591 days


#2 posted 02-22-2018 04:50 AM

Cypress can mean a lot of different types of wood. Is this bald cypress or perhaps one of the cypress commonly called cedar? Pictures might help get more input. Regardless, most of them are way too pretty in my book to use a stain on. Personally, I want to see the natural wood but that might match your needs.

For a dining table, one of the polyurethanes is probably going to be the most durable and water resistant. You’ll get lots of opinions about which are the best but Arm-R-Seal and Waterlox usually wind up with a considerable number of fans. For a more natural wood look, a wipe-on poly will look a little less plastic than the brush-on or spray-on approach but take a bunch of thin coats so may take quite a bit longer. I have never tried wipe-on poly on a large piece like a table top so I don’t know what pitfalls you might have trying to get a nice smooth finish on a large surface.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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TheFridge

10756 posts in 1690 days


#3 posted 02-22-2018 07:34 AM

Unless you want to wait a long time for it to dry in between coats, seal it with thinned finish and build it up until the light part in between the rings stops sucking the finish up. Then go to town. If it stays tacky, just wipe it down with mineral spirits or paint thinner.

Finish both sides at once. Especially the top. A cypress table like that can cup 1”+ overnight. I’ve had it happen before. Not to mention cypress has no stability until it’s sealed. I stand my pieces and panels on end to help mitigate that. If it’s already assembled then don’t worry.

Make for damn sure if you uses those anawhite plans you account for wood movement. If not you’ll regret it later at some point.

I never stain cypress so I can’t help there. Play around with scraps.

I use regular satin polyurethane wiped on with shop towels in thin coats. Dries fast.

If you wipe it on then don’t let it puddle while sealing and do the first coat as quick as you can.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View rwe2156's profile

rwe2156

3174 posts in 1685 days


#4 posted 02-22-2018 03:50 PM

Keep in mind Cypress will darken with exposure to light.

It will turn a nice shade of brown on its own.

I would be inclined to use a light stain (if any) and a clear top coat.

I agree with Fridge re: you really need to make sure cypress is acclimated before sealing. It is notorious for holding moisture (after all its a water tree).

I also agree with Fridge re: Ana White. She doesn’t know what she’d doing re: furniture design.

And, be prepared for cypress to soak up a lot of finish.

3 for 3, Fridge!!!

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View John Smith's profile

John Smith

1489 posts in 367 days


#5 posted 02-22-2018 04:54 PM

”I would like advice on staining? sealing? I would like to stain more of brown
and less red from the cypress”.

if there is red in the wood, I agree with LazyMan that you may have cedar vs cypress.
photos of your project will provide more accurate assistance.

this is a motor mount for my boat made of Florida Bald Cypress – 12 coats of marine spar varnish.

very good information above. folks that understand cypress and the way it behaves
learn through experience. cypress is a different animal compared to other woods.
when processed correctly, it is a very beautiful product. I don’t see how a stain can
improve or enhance its natural appearance and character – but that is your call.
if you do not coat both sides and all edges equally as Fridge suggested, you can expect
some movement issues down the road.

.

-- I started out with nothing in life ~ and still have most of it left.

View Weezie's profile

Weezie

3 posts in 299 days


#6 posted 02-22-2018 06:46 PM

I am trying to set up photo bucket to get picture put on here. So sorry for not responding to that right away. The cypress is from local sawmill, we asked that it be kiln dried so I would like to believe that means the moisture is not high in this wood. It is 2” thick and it has been doweled and glued together. The table measures 8ft x 42”. It is beautiful, I just need the top to be more brown and not glossy….that was my biggest worry was how to stain and seal it (for dummies) I am not a avid or professional so I hope Im not offended anyone here

View Snipes's profile

Snipes

196 posts in 2449 days


#7 posted 02-22-2018 08:18 PM

I don’t think photo bucket works on lj. dies might be a good choice, but there not (for dummies). Try a sample with satin polyurethane and see if you like it. oil base will darken it a fair bit.

-- if it is to be it is up to me

View John Smith's profile

John Smith

1489 posts in 367 days


#8 posted 02-22-2018 08:50 PM

as for sealing the wood – that is done after you stain it and the stain dries completely.
personally ~ when working with cypress, I avoid any product that says fast drying
or super fast drying and all water based coatings ~ but that is just my way of doing things.
I want the first coats to be thin (diluted 50/50) so it will really soak into the wood.
top, bottom, and all edges the same. each successive coat will be less dilution for at least
4 coats. the last two coats full strength. if you think another few coats will be better, do it.
cypress is like painting a sponge – you must stabilize the deep fibers prior to the finish coats.
drying is critical – allow a minimum of 24 hours between coats (depending on your atmospheric conditions).
looking forward to seeing your project !! cypress is really a beautiful wood.
good luck !! ( photobucket will hold your pictures hostage unless you pay them royalties).

-- I started out with nothing in life ~ and still have most of it left.

View Lazyman's profile

Lazyman

2641 posts in 1591 days


#9 posted 02-22-2018 09:47 PM



I am trying to set up photo bucket to get picture put on here.

- Weezie

Don’t mess with photo bucket. The easiest way to post a picture is to click the img button above the text box and simply upload it directly to LJ.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

View Mike_in_STL's profile

Mike_in_STL

730 posts in 738 days


#10 posted 02-22-2018 09:53 PM

Don’t use photobucket. Following, because I want to see the results.

-- Sawdust makes me whole --Mike in STL

View Charlie H.'s profile

Charlie H.

295 posts in 854 days


#11 posted 02-23-2018 02:26 PM

^^
Ditto

-- Regards, Charlie in Rowlett, TX --------I talk to myself, because sometimes I need expert advice.---------

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

10756 posts in 1690 days


#12 posted 02-23-2018 02:47 PM

The problems usually lie in how the top is secured to the base

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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