Jointer fence warped

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Forum topic by cabs4less posted 04-14-2011 04:37 AM 4079 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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235 posts in 2785 days

04-14-2011 04:37 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question jointer

I cant tell for sure but i think my fence on my jointer is warped you can square on out feed and infeed is out 32nd at top and as best i can tell my tables are coplaner and they are dovetailed so if they aint i dont know how to fix them but i checked with the best egde i got (level lol) and feeler gauges and they were in close so can i take the fence to machine shop and have it flattened or just have to put a ply face on and hope for the best

PS i get a square egde by squaring the out feed side and holding tight to it the first 3” are off but my planer snipes bad enough i have to cut that off any way

-- As Best I Can

10 replies so far

View bubinga's profile


861 posts in 2691 days

#1 posted 04-14-2011 04:58 AM

If the tables are not coplanar, you probably need to use shims to fix,but ,depends on individual planer
The fence can be flattened at a machine shop if necessary
You should not be getting snipe, if out feed table is set right
You really should have a better straight edge for checking,coplanar

-- E J ------- Always Keep a Firm Grip on Your Tool

View Luke's profile


545 posts in 3317 days

#2 posted 04-14-2011 05:11 AM

Buy a quality straightedge for checking machines. Imperative.

-- LAS,

View cabs4less's profile


235 posts in 2785 days

#3 posted 04-14-2011 06:01 AM

yeah i going to order a edge payday i should clarify the snipe is from my bench top planer not my jointer i joint one edge and run it through my planer to get a consistint width how would you shim the ways though

-- As Best I Can

View bluekingfisher's profile


1250 posts in 3003 days

#4 posted 04-14-2011 10:06 AM

You can purchase brass shims in various thickness from model/craft shops for about $4 or $5 a pack. Best to buy a multi pack with different size shims, some guys have used soda tin cans but often you will need thinner shims.

As well as needing a straight edge I would recommed buying the book, “Care and repair of shop machines” by John White, the books explains how to shim the tables correctly and even tells how to make your own straight edge fron a lenght of timber and some dry wall screws.

Shimming the tables is quite straight forward, start by undoing the release bolts which hold the tables onto the main body, they will be on the side somewhere, dependant on your model they may be a simple nut, wing type nut or hex key. The table should now lift up for you to slide the ways out. You may not need to bring them all the way out but it could be a good time to lub them anyway. Again, dependant on which way the table is out (droop end or high at the end) will dictate how you will need to shim but he sihim is packed out against the top of the way. It may be a little trial and error to get the tables in line, not difficult but can be a little fustrating if you can’t get that perfect alignment straight off.

It has been a couple of years since I last did mine but that is the basis of the job, I may not have described the process too well but as I said the book is worth the money, it has straight forward easy to read steps and has most fixes and set up guides for the majority of shop machines. Once you have done this job for the first time you will be able to keep a check on the machine and make subtle adjustments from time to time as needs be.

Good luck with it, not being able to attain straight edges on your work is soooooo frustrating.

-- No one plans to fail, they just, just fail to plan

View bubinga's profile


861 posts in 2691 days

#5 posted 04-14-2011 10:14 AM

You can get brass shims at,hardware store
straightedge here,240,45313

-- E J ------- Always Keep a Firm Grip on Your Tool

View NBeener's profile


4816 posts in 3197 days

#6 posted 04-14-2011 06:09 PM

My first thought…....

Those are numbers.

Do you actually HAVE a problem ?

If you edge joint a couple of boards, is there ANY gap between the jointed edges, if you put them together, as though you were going to glue them up ?

If you face joint a couple of boards, and put the two jointed faces together …. if all is well …. your boards will slightly sort of “stick” to each other.

Gauge blocks will do that. Their surfaces are machined SO perfectly flat that they will basically stick to each other.

I’d start there: what sort of results does my jointer actually give.


I wear a size 11 shoe. I can’t POSSIBLY fit in a size 10-1/2 shoe …. unless I do.

You may or may not actually have a problem. Crossing my fingers…..

-- -- Neil

View Loren's profile


10476 posts in 3671 days

#7 posted 04-14-2011 06:48 PM

A bent jointer fence can be straightened with pressure or weight.

Cast iron bends. Warped jointer fences aren’t that uncommon.

Discussion of the problem and methods:

View knotscott's profile


8055 posts in 3399 days

#8 posted 04-14-2011 08:28 PM

I was going to suggest the same thing that Loren did…I’ve read about it working, but it probably depends on where it’s warped.

CR1’s methods seems pretty simple.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Richard's profile


1916 posts in 2714 days

#9 posted 04-14-2011 08:47 PM

EJ, are you pushing the LEEVALLEY tools again? :) With the response you got from thier Pres I would be too.

View cabs4less's profile


235 posts in 2785 days

#10 posted 04-15-2011 04:46 AM

NBEENER actually your on to something i get glue line edges and square work and flat surfaces (or as flat as i need them)
Thanks for all the help i going to get an edge and check if its the tables i will shim it the way yal said but if its the fence i prob go wit nbeener and say if it aint completely broke dont fix it

-- As Best I Can

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