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Jointer fence/bed rust problem

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Forum topic by ben posted 03-15-2008 06:09 PM 6030 views 0 times favorited 22 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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ben

158 posts in 2555 days


03-15-2008 06:09 PM

Topic tags/keywords: jointer rust cast iron

Jocks, I’m a bit confuzzled.

2 weeks ago I cleaned, derusted and waxed my jointer bed and fence. Today, it’s all rusty again.

I live in central NY where it’s been hovering between rainy and snowy for the last couple weeks, and the jointer lives in an unheated garage (except when I fire up a small heater while working). I have tried covering the jointer with an old bed sheet, after which I found actual condensation on the cast iron. Then I tried a plastic cover, and the rust was evident (I haven’t used it in the 2 weeks since waxing). Is it likely my garage, or my covering strategy? And either way, any suggestions?

Thanks.

-b


22 replies so far

View danny's profile

danny

20 posts in 2456 days


#1 posted 03-15-2008 06:18 PM

i have the same problem with rust in my shop because it is not heated at all times. I use damp ridein the shop i place them by the scroll saw ,jointer ect.. so far so good

-- danny s "the first to lose are the first to give up"

View GaryK's profile

GaryK

10262 posts in 2673 days


#2 posted 03-15-2008 06:50 PM

The last thing I would do would be to cover it. It will trap in moisture. You need air circulation so as not
too allow moisture to settle.

-- Gary - Never pass up the opportunity to make a mistake look like you planned it that way - Tyler, TX

View Dick, & Barb Cain's profile

Dick, & Barb Cain

8693 posts in 2984 days


#3 posted 03-15-2008 07:02 PM

It must not get cold enough in your area for the garage floor to freeze,

so moisture might be coming up through the floor.

You should have some sort of venting, so the moisture can escape the building.

-- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1

View Mike Lingenfelter's profile

Mike Lingenfelter

502 posts in 2799 days


#4 posted 03-15-2008 07:28 PM

I don’t think wax is enough to prevent rust. I use T9 Boeshield on all my cast iron tools, and works great. I live in rainy Seattle.

View ben's profile

ben

158 posts in 2555 days


#5 posted 03-15-2008 08:06 PM

danny—what’s damp ridein? google didn’t give me much…

otherwise, all sounds reasonable.

don’t cover.
add venting to the garage (may not be possible in the short term…).
use boeshield (bought some).

thanks gents :-)

View ShipWreck's profile

ShipWreck

536 posts in 2437 days


#6 posted 03-16-2008 11:04 AM

I used to use a paste wax, But then I realized that it traps water in the pours of the cast iron. I spray WD40 on my tools once a week. Virginia Beach can be very humid most of the year. The WD40 has worked very well.

View OttawaP's profile

OttawaP

89 posts in 2411 days


#7 posted 03-16-2008 02:59 PM

DON”T USE WD40 !!!! The silicone in the spray will contaminate and ruin many applied
finishes on your project. Fish eyes are not any fun at all after dozens of hours spent building a project.
Boeshield is a good product, not as slidy slick as wax but very good protection.

-- Paul

View danny's profile

danny

20 posts in 2456 days


#8 posted 03-16-2008 04:53 PM

sorry damp ride.. it is sold at lowes,wal-mart,and others it basic use is for basements or damp areas of a house it traps moisture in the can.

-- danny s "the first to lose are the first to give up"

View Peter Oxley's profile

Peter Oxley

1426 posts in 2559 days


#9 posted 03-16-2008 05:26 PM

I have a similar problem with my table saw. The wax was getting a little thin, and then a little stumble got a little coffee on the top. I’ve taken the rust off with steel wool a couple of times, but it keeps coming back. The problem is that the wax traps humidity against the iron. Try to find a day when the humidity is pretty low, and then clean the bed really well and make sure it is absolutely dry before you re-coat it with wax (or T9).

However, if you don’t expect a dry day fairly soon, I’d keep cleaning it off frequently until then. Surface rust is pretty easy to remove and won’t cause much damage, but if you leave it, it could get deeper and start to pit the surfaces.

Danny and Ben – I think it’s Damp Rid.

-- http://www.peteroxley.com -- http://north40studios.etsy.com --

View ShipWreck's profile

ShipWreck

536 posts in 2437 days


#10 posted 03-16-2008 06:36 PM

WD40, paste wax, Boeshield, and even bee’s wax can and will cause fish eyes if used not used correctly. I have stained many projects and have not experienced any fish eye problems. Some woodworkers will not use Boeshield because it creates friction. Some people do not like wax because it traps humidity. The subject of preserving machinery surfaces is, and will always be opinionated.

It’s a trade off with any product that you apply to metal surface related to woodworking.

View Dorje's profile

Dorje

1763 posts in 2682 days


#11 posted 03-16-2008 08:47 PM

I’m also in Seattle, pretty moist…I only use paste wax and it’s all I’ve needed in for my tools in my unheated shop. Seems it takes a few applications to get the right protective build, but once there, it works without worry (for me and my tools). That said, I wouldn’t knock the Boeshield product. I’ve used it in the past. It’s a bit sticky, but protects really well.

-- Dorje (pronounced "door-jay"), Seattle, WA

View DaveH's profile

DaveH

400 posts in 2463 days


#12 posted 03-17-2008 03:00 AM

I apply a liberal coat of Johnson paste wax and use a heat gun so it gets into the pores. Let it dry and buff it. It won’t protect from direct water attacks.

-- DaveH - Boise, Idaho - “How hard can it be? It's only wood!”

View Dorje's profile

Dorje

1763 posts in 2682 days


#13 posted 03-17-2008 05:19 AM

I like the heat gun idea…wax only applies so well in the cold…

-- Dorje (pronounced "door-jay"), Seattle, WA

View swied's profile

swied

74 posts in 2447 days


#14 posted 03-17-2008 06:30 AM

I live close to the ocean and and get a lot of moister from the prevailing onshore breezes. I have the same issues with rust. A while back I accidentally left a block of unfinished mahogany on my new jointer table. The piece had already been jointed and was perfectly flat. It sat there for a few weeks during a time when I wasn’t doing much work in the shop. Later I discovered that there was a lot rust on the jointer table. When I picked up the wood there was a perfect rectangle without any rust underneath. Since then, I have been using the T9 Boeshield product, but the rust keeps coming back. Would it make sense to cut some boards of wood—something cheaper than mahogany—to cover the entire table?

-- Scott, San Diego

View ww_kayak's profile

ww_kayak

70 posts in 2410 days


#15 posted 03-17-2008 05:31 PM

Ben,

Another idea that comes up once in awhile on the metal machining forums is the type of heater you use. Apparently guys have had problems with condensation, not only because of a quick heat on a cold tool, but because burning propane produces water. Just a thought.

-- Tom, Central New York

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