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Storing cut wood for a week

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Forum topic by slimjim145 posted 1234 days ago 817 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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slimjim145

10 posts in 1310 days


1234 days ago

Hey everyone. Would like to thank everyone for helping me getting started in woodworking as a hobby.

I have a question about storing wood. I am building a small bookcase for my wife. I have all the wood cut to size. I am using red oak. Only had the time to go to Home Depot and get wood so this is what i ended up with. I have to go out of town for 4 days before I get a chance to stain the wood. Should I store it in my garage on a flat surface or should I bring it inside the house and lay it on the carpet in a bedroom. Just wondering what is the best choice to keep it from drying/warping on me.

Also I might have to time to put a pre-stainer on the wood before I leave. Would this help any or can I wait until I get back.

Thanks for the help in advance

James


7 replies so far

View wseand's profile

wseand

2124 posts in 1673 days


#1 posted 1234 days ago

A lot of pre-stains have a time limit prior to staining, I would read the direction on it, either way I wouldn’t put it on. It is hard to say what the wood will do coming from HD. I never take my wood inside. I would keep it off the ground especially if you have a Concrete floor and leave it in the Garage.

-- Bill - "Freedom flies in your heart like an Eagle" Audie Murphy

View Scott Bryan's profile

Scott Bryan

27251 posts in 2453 days


#2 posted 1234 days ago

James, you really do not need a wood conditioner with red oak. Normally conditioners are applied to woods that are prone to blotching when stained. These would be poplar, pine, maple, birch and cherry. Red oak takes stain well.

As far as the conditioner goes there is a mixed debate on using it. One side says that for the condition to work it has to cure so this means that the wood has to sit at least overnight after application. The manufacturer’s directions call for staining within a 2 to 3 hour period following application. So the choice is yours if you want to apply a conditioner.

I agree with Wesand about storing the wood. If you keep it in your shop put some stickers under it to keep it off the concrete.

-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine

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Bertha

12951 posts in 1324 days


#3 posted 1234 days ago

Red oak will take anything you throw at it. It can’t hurt to let it acclimate at it’s desired location for a few days. I can’t wait so see the finished product! If you blog about the construction, you get superpoints with me :)

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

View EPJartisan's profile

EPJartisan

1052 posts in 1756 days


#4 posted 1234 days ago

Red Oak is pretty durable, 4 days is nothing. Best to let the wood acclimate to the conditions it will be living in, but in my process, I like to see if and how a piece of wood will move prior to me working it… So I know the places it will be problematic. Red Oak has an open cell structure, meaning it can absorb and release moisture quite fast. Sealing the wood prior to working it can sometimes be problematic. Some people like conditioners, but think they destroy the inherent properties of the figuring and texture.. especially with clack cherry and poplar, and makes them look fake. I enjoy a visual depth in my finishes. Also since you purchased it at HomeDept you have no info about the wood, how long it has been there, how recently cut, how it was dried.. etc. Best to just leave it alone for a few days.

-- " 'Truth' is like a beautiful flower, unique to each plant and to the season it blossoms ... 'Fact' is the root and leaf, allowing the plant grow and bloom again."

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Nomad62

706 posts in 1589 days


#5 posted 1233 days ago

A friend of mine made a gorgeous toy box from oak, he cut and dovetailed everything but did not put it together for a couple of weeks…and had to pound it together when he did, cracking one of the boards in doing so. The oak had moved in that small time, and his precisely cut dovetails no longer fit correctly. Lesson was to not do that. I always suggest to cut and put together asap.

-- Power tools put us ahead of the monkeys

View HerbC's profile

HerbC

1161 posts in 1491 days


#6 posted 1233 days ago

Nomad62,

Another valid lesson from your friend’s experience would be to be patient and if parts don’t fit don’t force them. He could have probably fixed the joints if he’d worked cafefully instead of pounding it together.

Herb

-- Herb, Florida - Here's why I close most messages with "Be Careful!" http://lumberjocks.com/HerbC/blog/17090

View Al Killian's profile

Al Killian

85 posts in 1257 days


#7 posted 1231 days ago

Nomad, normally if you are going to let parts rest for a while befor finishing it you leave the parts slightly over size. This done to find out if any of the wood peices are going to move. It is a bad dea to completly mill the parts and let them sit for a long perod, as the can twist or warp and then the parts will be junk.

-- Owner of custom millwork shop

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