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Forum topic by CSHS posted 02-11-2018 04:03 PM 644 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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CSHS

3 posts in 128 days


02-11-2018 04:03 PM

Hi, glad to be here and learn from your expertise.

We’re finishing the inside of a pole barn. The goal is to have the walls similar to the picture below (found on a Google search).

We had a red oak cut up late last summer. Here’s the stack. Boards are about 8’6” long, 8” wide, 5/8” thick. Painted the ends with Anchorseal.

Plan on planing them a little before they go on the walls. My question is what to treat them with before they go up. Should I put on a light Poly coat? Would something like Thompson’s Waterseal be good for this application? The only climate control in the barn is a heater during deer season.

Thanks in advance for the advice. I’ll take any other input you may have on prepping and hanging the boards.


16 replies so far

View JCamp's profile

JCamp

626 posts in 574 days


#1 posted 02-11-2018 08:36 PM

Why do u think they need treated?

-- Whatsoever thy hand findeth to do, do it with all thy might

View Snipes's profile

Snipes

177 posts in 2268 days


#2 posted 02-11-2018 11:39 PM

I like to put something on them as it makes them a little easier to wipe down and clean, but you don’t have to put anything on them. Poly would be fine. Are you just going to but em or ship lap or ?

-- if it is to be it is up to me

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CSHS

3 posts in 128 days


#3 posted 02-12-2018 01:56 PM



Why do u think they need treated?

- JCamp

I was told to put something on them to keep them looking good over time and reduce cupping


I like to put something on them as it makes them a little easier to wipe down and clean, but you don t have to put anything on them. Poly would be fine. Are you just going to but em or ship lap or ?

- Snipes

We’re going to just butt them together. Plan is to hang thin black tar paper behind when gaps open you won’t be looking at pink insulation.

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johnstoneb

2935 posts in 2196 days


#4 posted 02-12-2018 02:04 PM

Good Idea to hang the black paper behind. A finish will not reduce cupping It might slow it down a little. If the wood is going to cup it will cup and there is nothing you can do about it. If you were to rip it to 4” wide you would reduce or eliminate any bad cupping.

-- Bruce, Boise, ID

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JCamp

626 posts in 574 days


#5 posted 02-12-2018 02:37 PM

The black paper is a good idea. I agree with John that u won’t be able to stop the cupping and twisting but I lik the looks of wider boards so I wouldn’t cut them into 4in wide pieces. If u look in my past projects I did a corner hunting nook in my old building with some older 5/4 rough cut that turned out pretty good. I wouldn’t bother with putting anything on it since it’s in a pole barn just take a broom and knock the dust off every now and then. If it were in a house it would need treated with something to kill the bugs in it tho. Growing up we had a room that had t1-11 4ft up the wall and it wasn’t finish with anything other than stain. It never got visably dusty but every now and then mom would wipe it off with a wet rag.

-- Whatsoever thy hand findeth to do, do it with all thy might

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JCamp

626 posts in 574 days


#6 posted 02-12-2018 02:42 PM

Here is a link to the wall I was talking about. I had it posted in the forums not in my projects

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/219218

-- Whatsoever thy hand findeth to do, do it with all thy might

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rwe2156

2961 posts in 1504 days


#7 posted 02-12-2018 03:08 PM

I would nail them up and finish like a floor with poly and a lambs wool applicator.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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alittleoff

539 posts in 1300 days


#8 posted 02-12-2018 07:18 PM

Here is a picture of my man cave. I used 8 and 10 ft. Cedar fencing boards and finished it by rolling on poly. The other room I used thompson water seal and it worked out pretty good. Make sure you use the black paper or something behind it, it will move and you’ll see whatever is behind it.
Gerald

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Snipes

177 posts in 2268 days


#9 posted 02-12-2018 07:23 PM

Tarpaper will probably work. When I’ve been asked to put em up quick and dirty like you are, I like to put 1/4” ply up first and paint black. Do you know the moisture content? oak shrinks a lot. My advice would be to give em quick sanding/ and or plane, just enough to knock the fuzzies down, and a coat of poly.

-- if it is to be it is up to me

View LesB's profile

LesB

1748 posts in 3466 days


#10 posted 02-12-2018 08:26 PM

So by the time you plane the 5/8” boards they will probably be close to 1/2” thick.
If you want to coat them with a sealer (poly or what ever) you should treat both sides to keep the moisture content uniform from one side to the other and this will greatly reduce the chance of cupping mentioned above.
You didn’t mention how the boards were actually sawn. By that I mean plan sawn, rift sawn, or quarter sawn. Plain sawn boards will have a greater tendency to cup and quarter sawn the least.

-- Les B, Oregon

View Mike_in_STL's profile

Mike_in_STL

675 posts in 557 days


#11 posted 02-13-2018 01:35 AM

Reclaimed wood, no finish, just bare wood, scrubbed with a stiff bristle brush prior to install and a thorough dry time. Wall is painted gray behind the boards.

-- Sawdust makes me whole --Mike in STL

View CSHS's profile

CSHS

3 posts in 128 days


#12 posted 02-13-2018 02:08 AM

Thanks for all the advise and I got a lot out of the pics. I’ll post some of my project when we get the boards up. I’ve heard not to let the oak get too dry, hard to nail and might split. True? What should a reasonable target be for moisture content before putting them up?


So by the time you plane the 5/8” boards they will probably be close to 1/2” thick.
If you want to coat them with a sealer (poly or what ever) you should treat both sides to keep the moisture content uniform from one side to the other and this will greatly reduce the chance of cupping mentioned above.
You didn t mention how the boards were actually sawn. By that I mean plan sawn, rift sawn, or quarter sawn. Plain sawn boards will have a greater tendency to cup and quarter sawn the least.

- LesB


I’m not sure. Most likely plain sawn.

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ArtMann

950 posts in 839 days


#13 posted 02-13-2018 03:38 AM

If you don’t want your wall to shrink and develop cracks or swell and buckle or warp, the moisture content needs to be what it would normally be if the wood were in that room for a very long time. It is not a certain level of moisture that causes wood to change dimensions. It is the change in moisture content over time. That is why installers put hardwood flooring in the house they are going to install it in for several days ahead of time. My advice to you is don’t even start trying to install the wall with just a hammer and nails. It doesn’t matter what the moisture content is. Nailing into oak is difficult. If you don’t have an air nailer, pre-drill the holes before driving the nails.

View Mike_in_STL's profile

Mike_in_STL

675 posts in 557 days


#14 posted 02-13-2018 03:51 AM

Air nailed, used 18 gauge brads. No problem right into the studs.

-- Sawdust makes me whole --Mike in STL

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oldwood

136 posts in 1267 days


#15 posted 02-13-2018 04:01 AM

To keep the natural look of old wood and make it easy to dust or wipe off use a couple coats of matte finish poly. Does the job and you can’t even tell its there. Also very good as a seal over old chaulky paint to keep it from rubbing off. I’ve used rustoleum with very good results.

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