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Jointing and Surfacing "green " wood

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Forum topic by Elksniffer posted 1239 days ago 1268 views 0 times favorited 2 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Elksniffer

74 posts in 2030 days


1239 days ago

I am going to bend some green white oak for chair arms and they are 1” x 5/8”. Before I upgraded my jointer and planer I used my old three blade jointer and 12 inch delta planer to get them shaped from rough stock I had cut on my bandsaw. The current jointer and planer have the carbide insert spiral cutterheads and the manual says not to surface green wood. Has any LJ used spiral cutterheads on green wood or have advise on using the jointer/planer for surfacing green wood.

Thanks
Jeff


2 replies so far

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GavinSA

21 posts in 1276 days


#1 posted 1234 days ago

Yo, Jeff,
The only reasons why I can see they say you shouldn’t would be for the following:
The internal workings are maybe not protected against high degree moisture which may lead to excessive rust or electrical short-circuit;
The idea of certain green woods maybe being too “stringy” might lead the cutter to jam up quickly causing additional internal wear or overheating
the green wood has not set so no matter if you plane it, it still hasn’t accepted its final resting shape. So if you plane it green, it might tend to twist as you open the pores of the wood which can lead to excessive fluid loss at different sections of the wood, which would inconsistency twist the wood?
I would believe the final answer would be that the wood wont keep the shape as it is planed green then when its planed dried.
Maybe you should just rough it for first, then at a later stage when drier, give it its final shape
Just an thought.

-- An unfinished project makes great firewood for winter!

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Nomad62

706 posts in 1591 days


#2 posted 1233 days ago

Green wood is harder to cut with a toothed blade, making it harder for a jointer or even harder on a planer since the feed rate is pre-set by the tools’ manufacturer. Green wood dust also tends to ball or build up on the blade instead of being easily thrown off. I believe (no proof or inside info) that their statement is to protect their machine from damage caused by people that need to push things past their limits, including trying to plane off 1/4” at a time of walnut (awwww, it’ll work!). I do work wetter wood sometimes, and cut thinner or slower as possible to atone.

-- Power tools put us ahead of the monkeys

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