Jointing and Surfacing "green " wood

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Forum topic by Elksniffer posted 04-07-2011 11:44 PM 2318 views 0 times favorited 2 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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101 posts in 3424 days

04-07-2011 11:44 PM

I am going to bend some green white oak for chair arms and they are 1” x 5/8”. Before I upgraded my jointer and planer I used my old three blade jointer and 12 inch delta planer to get them shaped from rough stock I had cut on my bandsaw. The current jointer and planer have the carbide insert spiral cutterheads and the manual says not to surface green wood. Has any LJ used spiral cutterheads on green wood or have advise on using the jointer/planer for surfacing green wood.


2 replies so far

View GavinSA's profile


21 posts in 2670 days

#1 posted 04-13-2011 04:28 PM

Yo, Jeff,
The only reasons why I can see they say you shouldn’t would be for the following:
The internal workings are maybe not protected against high degree moisture which may lead to excessive rust or electrical short-circuit;
The idea of certain green woods maybe being too “stringy” might lead the cutter to jam up quickly causing additional internal wear or overheating
the green wood has not set so no matter if you plane it, it still hasn’t accepted its final resting shape. So if you plane it green, it might tend to twist as you open the pores of the wood which can lead to excessive fluid loss at different sections of the wood, which would inconsistency twist the wood?
I would believe the final answer would be that the wood wont keep the shape as it is planed green then when its planed dried.
Maybe you should just rough it for first, then at a later stage when drier, give it its final shape
Just an thought.

-- An unfinished project makes great firewood for winter!

View Nomad62's profile


726 posts in 2985 days

#2 posted 04-14-2011 06:19 PM

Green wood is harder to cut with a toothed blade, making it harder for a jointer or even harder on a planer since the feed rate is pre-set by the tools’ manufacturer. Green wood dust also tends to ball or build up on the blade instead of being easily thrown off. I believe (no proof or inside info) that their statement is to protect their machine from damage caused by people that need to push things past their limits, including trying to plane off 1/4” at a time of walnut (awwww, it’ll work!). I do work wetter wood sometimes, and cut thinner or slower as possible to atone.

-- Power tools put us ahead of the monkeys

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