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Weird Band Saw Problem

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Forum topic by OldSoulArtCo posted 02-06-2018 03:51 PM 572 views 0 times favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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OldSoulArtCo

9 posts in 109 days


02-06-2018 03:51 PM

Topic tags/keywords: bandsaw problems

So, I have a 14” HF Bandsaw that I’ve upgraded almost all around. I’m having a problem now where the motor runs and stops, over and over again as if the power is fluttering on and off.from a loose wire or.something, which it’s not. And if I try to cut anything at all, it just shows to a stop immediatly..

There are a total of 3 pulleys. 4 position on the motor, 4 position on the saw that goes to the 1 main wheel.

What’s weird is that it only happens in it’s stock configuration. meaning, if I bypass the middle pulley and just go 1 belt direct from the motor to the wheel drive, it runs like a champ. All belts are new, all wheels spin well, tension doesn’t seem to make a difference. Tight or loose, if its on that middle pulley , it’s a dumper.

Any thoughts???


17 replies so far

View JollyGreen67's profile

JollyGreen67

1669 posts in 2762 days


#1 posted 02-06-2018 08:25 PM

It’s an HF.

-- When I was a kid I wanted to be older . . . . . this CRAP is not what I expected !

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OldSoulArtCo

9 posts in 109 days


#2 posted 02-06-2018 08:28 PM

Fair enough, however that’s irrelevant in this case. Believe me I know HF problems. It’s the only piece of machinery I have of theirs now, as everything else is Jet or Delta.

I’m looking for a legitimate theory.

View Lee's profile

Lee

114 posts in 877 days


#3 posted 02-06-2018 09:27 PM

Is the middle pulley used for tensioning. maybe there is a switch on the linkage that shuts the saw off if the belt gets too loose.

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LesB

1728 posts in 3442 days


#4 posted 02-06-2018 09:47 PM

My thought exactly…..

-- Les B, Oregon

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

6715 posts in 2198 days


#5 posted 02-06-2018 10:01 PM

Is the middle pulley used for tensioning. maybe there is a switch on the linkage that shuts the saw off if the belt gets too loose.
- Lee

My thought exactly…..
- LesB

I think you guys are giving HF a lot more credit than they deserve :)

According to the manual and parts diagram, there are no sensors or switches on the idler pulley or anywhere else other than the main power switch. IMO, It has to be an electrical problem as there is no relationship between the belt positions and electrical function. Possibly one way produces enough vibration to allow an intermittent connection to act up, and the other way doesn’t.

Cheers,
Brad

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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CaptainKlutz

264 posts in 1494 days


#6 posted 02-07-2018 12:10 AM

Hmm, IMO it would take a lot of coupled vibration to wiggle a wire enough to create a loose connection?
My vote is something mechanical.

Have you watched during operation to see if the un-driven pulley’s are oscillating up/down or side/side (or rotating in any non circular motion) at all during operation to correspond to the start and stop? IE, are the pullyey changing the tension as they rotate? This might indicate loose/bad bearing on shaft, pulley not bolted onto shaft properly, or even a bent pulley/shaft?

Had a similar start/stall/run/stall/repeat problem in drill press when idler pulley attachment bolt was loose and I did not detect the “out of round” movement of by idler pulley due tension created by opposing belts.

Best Luck

-- I'm an engineer not a woodworker, but I can randomly find useful tools and furniture inside a pile of lumber!

View bbasiaga's profile

bbasiaga

1233 posts in 1995 days


#7 posted 02-07-2018 12:47 AM

Perhaps the bearing on the middle pulley has gone out and it is putting enough resistance in the system to stall the motor?

Brian

-- Part of engineering is to know when to put your calculator down and pick up your tools.

View OldSoulArtCo's profile

OldSoulArtCo

9 posts in 109 days


#8 posted 02-07-2018 02:45 PM

It’s 100% not electrical. My bet is that the motor itself has a clutch internally that engages at a certain rpm, and with the 3 wheels and 2 belts, it struggles to get past that point to engage. That’s why when there is less involved, just the motor and the main drive wheel, it’s fine.

I’ll note that the only reason I certainly across this problem is because I relocated the motor and everything to a new, sturdy base that I built in order to minimize vibration and shake..that parts worked so far, but now it’s this issue I’ve encountered.

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OldSoulArtCo

9 posts in 109 days


#9 posted 02-07-2018 02:51 PM

When it’s happening, you’ll hear a click click in the motor, and feel it kick on and off.like you’re sitting there flipping the switch on and off. I’ve tried all different belt tensions. Too loose and it super bad, as the motor kicks on and off and doesn’t Doo much. Too tight, even slightly, and it struggles to get past that “ok it’s running” point, but as soon as you attempt to feed stock to it, it slows down to a halt.

At the moment I’ve got it in it’s only sweet spot. It kicks on and sort of gets up to speed, and will cut, but I have to feed very slowly. Like 2fpm slow..

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OldSoulArtCo

9 posts in 109 days


#10 posted 02-07-2018 08:25 PM

So the motor has a centrifugal switch, which is what is causing it to kick on and off. It can’t be bypassed. I think I just need a better motor that will get up to speed faster and be able to handle belt tension.

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

6715 posts in 2198 days


#11 posted 02-07-2018 08:30 PM

So the motor has a centrifugal switch, which is what is causing it to kick on and off. It can t be bypassed. I think I just need a better motor that will get up to speed faster and be able to handle belt tension.
- OldSoulArtCo

Open up the motor and check the switch. Could be as simple as a broken spring. Certainly won’t hurt anything if you are going to write off the motor anyway.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

971 posts in 603 days


#12 posted 02-07-2018 08:45 PM


So the motor has a centrifugal switch, which is what is causing it to kick on and off. It can t be bypassed. I think I just need a better motor that will get up to speed faster and be able to handle belt tension.
- OldSoulArtCo

Open up the motor and check the switch. Could be as simple as a broken spring. Certainly won t hurt anything if you are going to write off the motor anyway.

Cheers,
Brad

- MrUnix


+1 as always mainly just because it’s Brad’s theory. He usually knows of what he speaks. Also because I too have a HF and they are not that sophisticated electronically. The on off switch and the motor are the only places where there are any electronics. Until you figure it out I’d just run it on the next fastest pulley setting and leave it there.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

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OldSoulArtCo

9 posts in 109 days


#13 posted 02-07-2018 09:06 PM

I’ll pull it off and check it out Brad. I would go down a pulley, however I’m cutting Hard maple and I need the speed. Even on it’s fastest now isn’t fast enough. Maybe I’m just looking for a reason to buy a new motor….. I’ll eventually buy a good saw and not worry about this…

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OldSoulArtCo

9 posts in 109 days


#14 posted 02-08-2018 12:05 AM

Switch was just fine… Ugh…

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msinc

385 posts in 503 days


#15 posted 02-08-2018 12:29 AM

I had a saw once that used two capacitors on the motor. One was obviously a “start” capacitor and the other must have been some sort of high speed “run” capacitor or “load” capacitor. This saw would start fine and spin up but if the guides were slightly too tight or the second you touched anything to the blade to try a cut it would bog right down to dead slow and stop. It absolutely was electrical. I took the motor off and had it rebuilt. The company that did the work said the motor was fine just a capacitor was bad. 20 years ago it only cost like $25.00. It was strange because as long as there was no load on the motor it seemed to run fine. Slightest load at all and it bogged. It sounds like the extra belt, which is a load, could be doing the same thing.

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