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Most durable finish for Bottle Toppers and pens

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Forum topic by Keen1 posted 03-13-2008 12:53 AM 1268 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Keen1

103 posts in 4019 days


03-13-2008 12:53 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question

Have the chance to sell both through a local shop. I want to make sure they are good quality. I’ve noticed the friction polish I”ve used on pens in the past tends to wear quickly. Most concerned about the bottle toppers since they could come into contact with some vino…..I’ve bought some of the stainless steel “FDA approved” topper hardware and now wondering what finish is best to sell to general public. CA? If so anything like Ren wax after or just leave it at CA? 2-3 coats? Thanks for the input.

-- Dad to 5, Son of The One


6 replies so far

View Douglas Bordner's profile

Douglas Bordner

4029 posts in 4236 days


#1 posted 03-13-2008 07:34 AM

Although the drying time is much greater than CA, I would likely give Salad Bowl Finish a try. Behlens and General Finishes both make this. It is essentially an oil based varnish, so it’s tough and is FDA approved for food contact when fully cured. And it’s a wipe-on product. I use Mylands friction polish or Ubeaut’s Shellawax creme on my pens, but I would be concerned that the alcohol in vino might not work so well with shellac based finishes. Just my 2ยข.

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

View rikkor's profile

rikkor

11295 posts in 4047 days


#2 posted 03-13-2008 11:18 AM

I have had issues with pens dulling fairly quickly with use. Douglas, where do you get the Mylands or the Ubeats?

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Grumpy

24520 posts in 4024 days


#3 posted 03-13-2008 12:52 PM

Like douglas I use the Shellawax but use the EEE cutting compound to get a smoother finish before burnishing with the Shellawax. you could you wood turners wax (comes in lumps), the more coats the more protection.

-- Grumpy - "Always look on the bright side of life"- Monty Python

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Douglas Bordner

4029 posts in 4236 days


#4 posted 03-13-2008 06:22 PM

Rikkor-
Craft Supplies, USA
Has the Mylands products. I usually use the lacquer based Cellulose Sanding Sealer before using the friction polish

Penn State Industries has the Shellawax products
Ubeaut website has them of course, but this might be more costly to get shipped directly. I was intrigued by one of Don’s post about Hard Shellac, but have yet to stumble across any purveyors of this product here across the pond.

Tony/Grumpy,
Have you ever used that Hard Shellac?

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

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rikkor

11295 posts in 4047 days


#5 posted 03-13-2008 08:38 PM

Thanks Douglas.

View jeffthewoodwacker's profile

jeffthewoodwacker

603 posts in 3977 days


#6 posted 03-14-2008 01:28 AM

I like to use thin CA for the first two coats of finish on pens followed up by Mylands friction polish (also available at Woodcraft). I have also used BLO and varnish cut mixture on pens that will be used a lot. The Beall system is also a good choice but is expensive.

-- Those that say it can't be done should not interrupt those who are doing it.

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