Most durable finish for Bottle Toppers and pens

Although the drying time is much greater than CA, I would likely give Salad Bowl Finish a try. Behlens and General Finishes both make this. It is essentially an oil based varnish, so it’s tough and is FDA approved for food contact when fully cured. And it’s a wipe-on product. I use Mylands friction polish or Ubeaut’s Shellawax creme on my pens, but I would be concerned that the alcohol in vino might not work so well with shellac based finishes. Just my 2¢.

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

I have had issues with pens dulling fairly quickly with use. Douglas, where do you get the Mylands or the Ubeats?

-- Maplewood, MN

Like douglas I use the Shellawax but use the EEE cutting compound to get a smoother finish before burnishing with the Shellawax. you could you wood turners wax (comes in lumps), the more coats the more protection.

-- Grumpy - "Always look on the bright side of life"- Monty Python

Rikkor-
Craft Supplies, USA
Has the Mylands products. I usually use the lacquer based Cellulose Sanding Sealer before using the friction polish

Penn State Industries has the Shellawax products
Ubeaut website has them of course, but this might be more costly to get shipped directly. I was intrigued by one of Don’s post about Hard Shellac, but have yet to stumble across any purveyors of this product here across the pond.

Tony/Grumpy,
Have you ever used that Hard Shellac?

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

Thanks Douglas.

-- Maplewood, MN

I like to use thin CA for the first two coats of finish on pens followed up by Mylands friction polish (also available at Woodcraft). I have also used BLO and varnish cut mixture on pens that will be used a lot. The Beall system is also a good choice but is expensive.

-- Genius is immediate, but talent takes time.