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Trouble With Work Sharp Port

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Forum topic by bubinga posted 04-03-2011 05:03 AM 1767 views 2 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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bubinga

861 posts in 2129 days


04-03-2011 05:03 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question chisel sharpening work sharp

I ‘m having trouble getting a consistent grind using the Sharping port on my Work Sharp 3000
Two problems ,going through the grits,and changing glass plates,the bevel angle changes slightly,and the
skew,meaning the end of the tool being square.
I am holding the blade flat ,and straight on the bed of the port. Pretty sure any way,or am I ?
Anyone else having similar problem ???
I have the WIDE BLADE ATTACHMENT ,so I just started using the honing guide on top for the chisels ,and works fine no problems

-- E J ------- Always Keep a Firm Grip on Your Tool


13 replies so far

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bubinga

861 posts in 2129 days


#1 posted 04-03-2011 05:40 AM

Thanks deke at least I know I’M not the only one
I had same thing with plane blades ,but thought chisels would be differant
Otherwise I love the tool

-- E J ------- Always Keep a Firm Grip on Your Tool

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zfrme66

22 posts in 2073 days


#2 posted 04-04-2011 02:05 PM

I had the same problem with my chisels, not so much the plane blades. You have to make sure that you use the fence on the right side of the blade for things larger than 1/2’, and just the opposite for things smaller than 1/2’. Very importantly, you must make sure there’’s not any “slop” when you adjust for tightness of the tool in the guide. Sometimes you may think it’s too tight, but it’s really not. Just play with it till you get it just right.
Good luck.
Bob

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CharlieM1958

16241 posts in 3680 days


#3 posted 04-04-2011 03:40 PM

As Bob said, it is important to get the opening just right… not too tight, not too loose.

Also, if your grind is out of square, there is a skew adjustment. It is supposed to be correct right out of the box, but mine needed some adjustment.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

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bubinga

861 posts in 2129 days


#4 posted 04-04-2011 04:39 PM

I have done some research on this ,here on this site, and other woodworking sites , and found it to be a common problem.
I have tweaked the skew adjustment, and as -deke,said, It Seems it is either too tight to get the chisel in and out or to loose to hold.Some of the plane blades I have are not the same width there full length
I was thinking of taking that stupid little piece of sand paper off, and putting some Slick Tape,(that I use on jigs and such) on there ,and on the sides that guide the blade , so it will slide when tight enough to hold.
OR ! Just not use that port since,I have the wide blade attachment with the table on there ,It works good with honing guide ,AND that way I am using almost the whole area of the disc ,and not just one spot .

What do you all think???

-- E J ------- Always Keep a Firm Grip on Your Tool

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CharlieM1958

16241 posts in 3680 days


#5 posted 04-04-2011 06:39 PM

Whatever works… it doesn’t hurt to experiment.

The point of the sandpaper is to remove the burr created by the grinding of the opposite edge. And keep in mind that the fence adjustment and the skew adjustment are two different things.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

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TheDane

4997 posts in 3124 days


#6 posted 04-04-2011 06:41 PM

I had the same problem … especially with smaller (3/16”, 1/4”, 5/16”, etc.) chisels.

I finally broke out the water-stones and my Lee Valley honing guide, and honed the bevel on a 1” chisel so it was square and 25 degrees. I then went to the WS3000, installed a platter with 400 grit paper, fired up the machine, and barely touched the chisel to the underside of the platter … just enough so I could see any deviation in the skew. I adjusted the skew a tiny bit, re-honed the chisel on the water-stone, then back to the WS3000 for round 2. It took about 5 repetitions but I finally got the WS3000 to produce the same results I get on the water-stones with the conventional honing jig.

One thing that is kind of a PITA (anybody from WorkSharp looking or listening?) ... the set screw on the ‘Skew Cam Adjustment Lever’ is under the platter, which means you have to remove the 150mm glass plate to make any adjustments. Makes tweaking the skew a lot more of a hassle than it should be.

The other issue that I have run into is the sandpaper (400 grit?) on the sharpening port/heat sink tends to wear unevenly, which in turn effects the skew you are honing. I find myself replacing that little 2” x 2” piece of sandpaper frequently.

—Gerry

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

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bubinga

861 posts in 2129 days


#7 posted 04-04-2011 07:00 PM

I know the difference between the fence adjustment and the skew adjustment.
That little 2” x 2” piece of sandpaper works in theory ,but doesn’t really do much,and you must wait to do the back of blade with fine grits because that SP ,puts 400 grit scratches on the back of the blade.

I posted this at Fine Woodworking ,on Knots,and got this from my post

Tech Support for Work Sharp here. When sharpening and progressing through each grit, the edge may be slightly skewed when changing abrasives due to the difference in grits itself. Have you tried adjusting the skew lever? If you are coming up witha negative skew(right side is higher) then you will need to raise the lever. If you are coming up with positive skew(left side higher) then lower it. Finding the “right” spot can be tedious so move it in small incriments. Also, you won’t be able to tell which side you are higher on until you complete the process. Start with the P80 then follow through until you reach the P1000. If it is still skewed, then you’ll know whether to raise or lower the lever. From this point, you can start the grind using the P120 or P220, depending on how much material actually needs to be removed. Try coloring the bevel of your chisel with a sharpie and grind on the same abrasive until the marker is completely gone. This will ensure that you have removed the right amount of material before you change grits. If you need further assistance, feel free to call into tech support at 1.800.418.1439.

This is the second question I posted on Knots:
How is the skew position if the bed, of the port, set at the factory???
Surely not by trial and error.

-- E J ------- Always Keep a Firm Grip on Your Tool

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CharlieM1958

16241 posts in 3680 days


#8 posted 04-04-2011 07:24 PM

I have tweaked the skew adjustment, and as -deke,said, It Seems it is either too tight to get the chisel in and out or to loose to hold.

No offense was intended, EJ. I hope in rereading your sentence above you will understand why I thought you had the fence adjustment and the skew adjustment confused.

Another minor gripe I have is that it is kind of hard to tell when you are holding your blade perfectly flat against port’s surface. Just the tiniest but of pushing down or lifting up on the other end of the blade will throw your angle off.

It’s good to see that the WS folks are paying attention and offering their assistance at least!

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

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bubinga

861 posts in 2129 days


#9 posted 04-04-2011 07:48 PM

Another minor gripe I have is that it is kind of hard to tell when you are holding your blade perfectly flat against port’s surface. Just the tiniest but of pushing down or lifting up on the other end of the blade will throw your angle off. Is exactly my sentiments all so. I was thinking that surface could be longer to help with that

No offense taken

-- E J ------- Always Keep a Firm Grip on Your Tool

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bubinga

861 posts in 2129 days


#10 posted 04-04-2011 10:26 PM

Just so you all know here is last post
from Tech Support for Work Sharp
When we set it at the factory, we do a test sharpen on every machine to ensure it meets our tolerances. We use one chisel and one grit. If it squares- we know it is capable of being adjusted if necessary. However, this may get jostled during shipping and may need to be re-set similar to the problem you are having. So, is it trial and error? No, we do a test sharpening and make a small adjustment if we find a problem.

-- E J ------- Always Keep a Firm Grip on Your Tool

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AaronK

1440 posts in 2926 days


#11 posted 05-18-2011 04:22 AM

it’d be easy enough to test this at the factory with a dial indicator.

I’d suggest calling the worksharp customer service instead of posting on message boards. When I got mine, I had problems getting the razor sharp edge, and they were extremely helpful over the phone.

View bubinga's profile

bubinga

861 posts in 2129 days


#12 posted 05-18-2011 04:41 AM

I don’t see any need to call them, because,I no longer use the port on the workshop to sharpen anything, I have the wide blade attachment, so I use the guide that comes with it, just like other guides that you use on stones etc.
In my opinion this is a much better way than dinking around with the port

The worksharp people, are very helpful, as a matter of fact three or four days ago, I received a package with three abrasive discs in it, 400, 1000, and 80 grit, that I did not order.
The only reason I know where they came from was by the address.
Why they sent these to me I do not know, but it was a nice surprise.
I haven’t done so yet, but will go to their website and thank them for the gift

-- E J ------- Always Keep a Firm Grip on Your Tool

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