Wife demands new table saw....seriously?

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Forum topic by pete79 posted 04-03-2011 12:13 AM 3656 views 0 times favorited 30 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View pete79's profile


154 posts in 3109 days

04-03-2011 12:13 AM

Ok, so my family and I were talking about my hobby today and my wife ultimately demanded that I get a new table saw because my current one does not have a riving knife/splitter or a blade guard and I mentioned that aftermarket ones are a little difficult to find for my saw.

Now I can get something like an excalibur and an aftermarket splitter I know, but at that expense, I’m halfway to a decent new saw with both included.

One problem I have with a new saw it that I run my entire shop on two 110v lines totaling 30 amps and i’m not even close to being ready to rewire my house, dig a trench to the garage and run a new panel out there.

So…..what would you suggest on either getting aftermarket blade guard/splitter, or go for a new saw that I can run on 110v and less than 15 amps? I’d prefer a cabinet saw of some sort if I could swing that.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

-- Life is a one lap race.

30 replies so far

View bigike's profile


4050 posts in 3257 days

#1 posted 04-03-2011 12:16 AM

go for the bigger saw and run the new line or box, me I had space in the old/new box to run mine and I still have more too so I got lucky.

-- Ike, Big Daddies Woodshop,

View patron's profile


13600 posts in 3309 days

#2 posted 04-03-2011 12:25 AM

saw and power now
then all future
will all be easier and safer to do
saving you endless frustration and grief later
and having things made that are better and more fun

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View Manitario's profile


2629 posts in 2851 days

#3 posted 04-03-2011 12:28 AM

I think that you’d have a lot of difficulty finding a tablesaw that will safely run on a 15amp circuit outside of a contractor type TS. Most of the true cabinet saws run on 220V, and a typical “hybrid” saw will run on 15-18 amps. If you are going to go to the expense of getting a new TS, my personal choice would be to wait until you could put in the proper wiring. In the meantime, there are some very reasonable aftermarket choices; you will find on LJ’s reviews for the “BORK” ie. bolt-on riving knife, as well as the Shark Guard, both decent aftermarket options that won’t cost you as much as the Excalibur will. As well, Lee Valley sells some splitters that attach to your throat plate on the TS, they cost about $30.,41080,51225&ap=1

-- Sometimes the creative process requires foul language. -- Charles Neil

View Dennisgrosen's profile


10880 posts in 3083 days

#4 posted 04-03-2011 12:35 AM

go for the big one …....a goood 400 V cabinetsaw and the three wire upgrading to it
and while you are ad it throw in a cupple of 220 V it will make it a heck alot easyer for you in the future

and I´m sure if the wifes knew about the SS tecnic she wuold demand that too
you are blessed with a great suporting wife lucky man you are :-)

take care

View Jack_T's profile


623 posts in 2999 days

#5 posted 04-03-2011 12:45 AM

The first thing I would do is to consult a licensed electrician. He/she can tell you if you need to change the wiring to the shop to bring more power in. You may not have to. He/she can also tell you how much it will cost to upgrade the power.
Then if budget allowed I would upgrade the power and buy a SawStop. When are you ever going to get another chance like this!

Oh yeah, the first project I would build would be a brand new jewelery box to hold that brand new beautiful piece of jewelery that I would need to buy my wonderful wife.

My alternative plan would be to start saving for the above plan.

Remember SawStop makes it impossible for your children to cut their fingers off.

-- Jack T, John 3:16 "For God so loved the world that he gave his only Son, so that everyone who believes in him might not perish but might have eternal life."

View Paul Lajoie's profile

Paul Lajoie

135 posts in 3072 days

#6 posted 04-03-2011 01:40 AM

I’d get the Sawstop Pro 1.75 HP saw Can run on 120 or 240. I just got mine and have it on its own 20 amp circuit, no problems. My wife also insisted I get a new saw when she heard about the Sawstop, who am I to say no!


View pete79's profile


154 posts in 3109 days

#7 posted 04-03-2011 03:29 AM

Well a little bit of research so far is proving to yield very little either way. Here’s what I found so far:

1. I don’t have the cash to both upgrade the electric ($1,200+) to support a higher powered saw ($900+), and then buy the higher powered saw – so that option is out. I completely understand that this would be the ideal solution, but again, the money isn’t available for this at the moment.
2. I’ve found very little in the way of saws that run on 110v and are under 15amps. Virtually none in the hybrid/cabinet variety, and a few contractors. I don’t want to buy another contractor saw if I’m going to spend the money though – so I’m a bit torn on this point.
3. I looked at the Excalibur, Extraktor, Shark Guard, and BORK. Unfortunately none of these will fit my current Craftsman saw due to it’s size or lack of mounting option availability.

I’m not really sure what to do at this point other than save, save, save and try to be as careful as I can in the meantime. If anyone has suggestions to the contrary, please let me know.

-- Life is a one lap race.

View Pete_Jud's profile


424 posts in 3721 days

#8 posted 04-03-2011 04:03 AM

You could put the new saw in the kitchen and just keep switching the cord with the stove. If the wife loves you enough to buy a new saw, she should not have any issues working around it in the kitchen, and just think how fast you could slice your bread in the morning. ;)

-- Life is to short to own an ugly boat.

View rmoore's profile


325 posts in 2603 days

#9 posted 04-03-2011 04:13 AM

Have you thought of buying a replacement Craftsman part(s). Certainly cheaper than a new saw or wiring and would sell for more later. Try this link, .

-- The more I learn, the more I realize I don't know. Ron, Crossville Tn

View Howie's profile


2656 posts in 2891 days

#10 posted 04-03-2011 04:42 AM

Pete_Jud: Now there is a point well taken, however I personally would have a problem in the kitchen with the extra foot sticking out of my …..

Pete79: go for the new saw and upgrade the wiring, you will be well satisfied 220 makes a lot of difference.

-- Life is good.

View derosa's profile


1572 posts in 2804 days

#11 posted 04-03-2011 05:01 AM

get a saw that can be wired for 110 or 220 and leave it at 110 until you can upgrade. I suspect this would mean a hybrid and not a true cabinet saw, either that or a low use newer cabinet saw of craigslist that will let you afford to run the wiring.
You could also do much of the wiring yourself and have the inspector come in to verify that everything is correct and sign off on the final hookup. Takes a little more time but saves a lot of money.

-- --Rev. Russ in NY-- A posse ad esse

View Bob Kollman's profile

Bob Kollman

1798 posts in 3159 days

#12 posted 04-03-2011 05:10 AM


Recently I had to move to a new house. I had to hire an electrician to beef up my electrical needs
for my new work shop. It only cost me $200.00 bucks for him to install 3 new dedicated circuits.
He ran 20’ of conduit and wiring and gave me 5 outlets. 1 dedicated for the table saw, and 2 other
dedicated circuits for shop vac’s and whatever. 3 new 20 amp circuits. Contractors are hungrey
now and you can probably find a reputable company to wire you up at a real good price.


-- Bob Kenosha Wi.

View auggy53's profile


159 posts in 2648 days

#13 posted 04-03-2011 06:24 AM

does any of your wives that INSIST you buy new saws have any sister???

-- rick

View knotscott's profile


7982 posts in 3344 days

#14 posted 04-03-2011 06:35 AM

What saw do you have now?

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View bubinga's profile


861 posts in 2636 days

#15 posted 04-03-2011 06:39 AM

My powermatic 66 came with the regular guard with splitter well you know where that is ,hanging on the wall
I made a riving knife .I took a piece of mild steel,shaped it, ground ,and sanded to thickness.It attaches through the throat plate comes up close to the blade just where ,original guard did (not as tall though),works like it was made for the saw,,oh ya it was
I have had boards with a lot of tension release, and it has done its job
How does your power come to your shop,? Do you have a Breaker box ?
What do you run at the same time as ,TS ?
OH ya I have a blade guard from a 10in craftsmen contractor saw on the wall

Now about that sister ???

-- E J ------- Always Keep a Firm Grip on Your Tool

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