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Chamfering End Grain

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Forum topic by EdsCustomWoodCrafts posted 02-01-2018 06:23 AM 579 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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EdsCustomWoodCrafts

820 posts in 1463 days


02-01-2018 06:23 AM

Topic tags/keywords: chamfering end grain through mortise and tenon

Hi Guys

I am working on an solid oak end table with through mortise and tenon joinery and I want to add a decorative profile in the through tenon.

I don’t have a hand plane at least in working condition, I do have chisels, tablesaw , router table

Does anyone have a method to chamfering the end grain on the through tenon that will negate any tear out

Thanks
Ed

-- Thanks Ed “A bad day woodworking is better than a good day working. ~Author unknown”


11 replies so far

View jerryminer's profile

jerryminer

944 posts in 1562 days


#1 posted 02-01-2018 06:53 AM

I suppose you could carefully pare some chamfers with a sharp chisel, or run the pieces on a tablesaw sled with the blade at a 45* angle, but really, a small plane is the ideal tool for this job. Time to tune up that not-in-working-condition plane!

-- Jerry, making sawdust professionally since 1976

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jdh122

1035 posts in 2938 days


#2 posted 02-01-2018 11:25 AM

It’s possible with a very sharp chisel. If I had to do it without using a plane I’d probably use a v-groove bit in the router table.

-- Jeremy, in the Acadian forests

View Ron Aylor's profile

Ron Aylor

2649 posts in 768 days


#3 posted 02-01-2018 12:09 PM

Do you have a flat file? I chamfer through tenons with a flat file. The file alleviates tear-out. It takes patience, but it works!

View Carloz's profile

Carloz

1147 posts in 712 days


#4 posted 02-01-2018 01:06 PM

Do you have a sander or at least some sand paper ?

View LittleShaver's profile

LittleShaver

367 posts in 740 days


#5 posted 02-01-2018 01:13 PM

Sandpaper on a block works. With oak I’d start at 80 grit.

-- Sawdust Maker

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

4931 posts in 2472 days


#6 posted 02-01-2018 01:16 PM

Sand paper and a block would be your best bet. My preferred method would be with a block plane, but sandpaper backed with a block of wood would be my second choice.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View bigblockyeti's profile

bigblockyeti

5207 posts in 1841 days


#7 posted 02-01-2018 01:21 PM

If you have a tenoning jig for the table saw, that could work well for chamfering the cheeks, especially if you’re creating a large chamfer. Otherwise a sanding block or powered sander with a stiff pad would be your best bet.

-- "Lack of effort will result in failure with amazing predictability" - Me

View bbasiaga's profile

bbasiaga

1240 posts in 2115 days


#8 posted 02-01-2018 01:44 PM

If you use your chisel, just make sure to start by cutting the back end of the cut. This will avoid speltching. It’s not hard to do with a sharp chisel. If you use a plane it is a good thing to do as well.

To be .more clear, if you are working on the ten on from right to left, come in from the left and pare off a bit of the chamber at the end first, then do the rest right to left. Otherwise it will have the risk of blowing out the left end when you get there. Same is true if planing.

Brian

-- Part of engineering is to know when to put your calculator down and pick up your tools.

View rwe2156's profile

rwe2156

3073 posts in 1601 days


#9 posted 02-01-2018 04:56 PM

A ww’er without a hand plane is like, like …...... like a pitcher without a rosin bag….... You’ll never get a grip on your ww’ing without one :-)

Seriously, I’m pretty dexterous, but some of the worst cuts I’ve gotten is chamfering edge grain with a chisel.

Ed—glue a piece of 100 and a piece of 300 grit on a some wood and this works great.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View gargey's profile

gargey

1013 posts in 896 days


#10 posted 02-01-2018 05:04 PM

Great time to buy a little block plane like an LN 60 1/2. If you do wood, you’ll use it for the rest of your life.

View HTown's profile

HTown

114 posts in 1307 days


#11 posted 02-02-2018 07:13 AM

Sharp chisel at a skew working in light passes down to layout lines. If you need, cut a board on a 45 and clamp it to the tenon before you glue it up, then use that as a guide for consistency. Good luck.

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