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Table Top Butcher's Block Oil

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Forum topic by AxkMan posted 01-29-2018 08:10 PM 365 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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AxkMan

65 posts in 242 days


01-29-2018 08:10 PM

Topic tags/keywords: butcher block oil table top kitchen island glaze coat

Need some tips on a table top. I had glazed coated with 32 oz. of Famowood Glaze Coat. It wasn’t enough to cover the area adequately. The instructions said do in small amounts if you are not a professional, so I followed this. I don’t think that was sufficient because it turns out I should of went the professional way (spend more money on a gallon).

There are small cups in some spots and other spots have a bit of drip-like spots on the surface. There was no way of seeing this even with plenty of lighting. It is also sticky like plastic food wrap though it has been over a week. I thought to work with it as-is so I went ahead and sanded with 220 grit. It did an ok job, however it now has a dull plastic-like finish (like a polycrylic) and is still sticky.

I went and buffed it out with some soap oil, but this didn’t accomplish anything. I am wondering if I apply Butcher’s block oil on top will this help out in anyway?

It needs to be food safe. My concern is Butcher’s block oil is really for wood and not epoxy. Epoxy really does not have any pores for the oil to absorb into. So wouldn’t this just make a worst instance or will it actually dry good enough to cover the plastic like finish?


5 replies so far

View Gilley23's profile

Gilley23

489 posts in 498 days


#1 posted 01-29-2018 08:21 PM

Mineral oil is a non drying oil, don’t use it over what you have. Were you intending to use the glaze coat as your final finish?

View LittleShaver's profile

LittleShaver

360 posts in 735 days


#2 posted 01-29-2018 11:03 PM

Sounds to me like you may have messed up the application. Missed the 1:1 ratio, didn’t mix properly, or didn’t keep the table top warm enough. (I’ve done all of these at one time or another).

You may try getting the table into a well heated and ventilated area for a day or three and seeing if it cures properly. If that fails, I would remove as much glaze as possible and start over.

32 oz should be enough to get a first coat. I did a 3’ x 8’ white oak top with about 12 oz of another product, but I was not going for the thick plastic look, just filling pores and cracks.

-- Sawdust Maker

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AxkMan

65 posts in 242 days


#3 posted 01-29-2018 11:58 PM

I used a measuring quart and applied equal amounts. I repeated 3 times. It seems wasteful using this method and think that contributes to my surface cups, mostly on edges. It was hard to spread the thin coats across the entire surface of around 3’ x 6’. I checked constantly with good lighting, but the coat is so clear when wet it wasn’t evident until it set.

I did heat the surface to get air bubbles out. It has been cold out though, however. Not the best time of the year for this.

Checked on the butcher block oil and it doesn’t suggest applying it to other finishes either.

I was hoping there might be an alternative, cheaper solution. I think I’m in the middle point, but I have to topcoat with something. I am guessing maybe another trip to the store for glaze coat is the way to go, but I’m surprised that is the only alternative.

View CaptainKlutz's profile

CaptainKlutz

447 posts in 1610 days


#4 posted 01-30-2018 01:34 AM

Reads like you between a rock and hard place. :(

Famowood epoxy coating is intended to be a thick protecting top coat. About only surface coating used on clear epoxy coatings is wax and then buffing it out to achieve the desired sheen.

Worse – Not many finishes are going to stick to epoxy coated surface, unless it is roughened to create a mechanical bound. The level of roughness required (~80-100 grit sand paper) will not work under a regular (varnish/poly) clear finish as the sanding scratches will be visible.

If epoxy coating is still sticky, then as others stated: either the mix ratio was wrong, or cure temp was too low.

Epoxy has minimum cure temp requirements (usually >65F). If you attempted to cure at low temperature, then a bad thing can happen = the long cure time will allow epoxy to surface blush or out gas some of the curative that is not reacted fast enough. This creates a sticky film on surface, and if temp was low enough will prevent proper cure/hardness of the epoxy film.

There are not many options to correct this problem:
First, place the item in hot location >85F for 72 hours, or >100F for 48 hours. Slow cure epoxy systems can take 2-4 weeks to fully cure at room temp (72F), so you need significant heat to accelerate the process.
Second, you can attempt to sand the surface with 220/320 grit to remove the sticky film, and determine if epoxy is cured hard enough to be used. If the top can be dented with fingernail after extended high temp cure, then the epoxy is not fully cured. Only solution is to sand off the partially cured epoxy, and try again. If the epoxy has hard surface then you can continue to sand with 400/600, then buff with wax to final sheen.

Other epoxy tips:
You can make repairs to a the clear epoxy finish, but they are very hard to hide. The challenge is edge of the top coated epoxy (due surface tension). To repair, sand area to be re-coated with 150 grit, clean dust/grime with fast dry solvent (alcohol is safest, MEK – acetone clean better as long as not allow to soak on surface). The re-coat with more epoxy.

Have not used Famowood brand, but most epoxies can be diluted 5-10% with denatured alcohol to lower viscosity/repair thickness, which will reduce height of edge. This can reduce the need to blend/buff the edge to hide it. Note – ambient temp needs be high enough to allow the alcohol to evaporate before cure, so thinned epoxy application works best 75-85F working temp. It is always a good idea to test your thinned epoxy mixture on extra board, and give it a complete cure before committing to a finished project. If alcohol is not fully evaporated, end up with softer epoxy.

Instructions for epoxy always suggest mixing in small qty. That said, you can safely mix 1 gt (or more) at time, providing you follow some basic cautions. This larger epoxy mass will exotherm and begin the curing process much faster; So you must mix it quickly (but thoroughly), and then reduce the mass per unit area quickly.
Common trick is to use a small drill attached mixing blade (slow speed to minimize bubbles), and then pour the entire contents out onto your surface so that self heating is not carried into entire mass of epoxy. After pouring out, typically use a squeegee/large putty knife to spread coating on the surface to slow the cure rate and allow normal working time to “level” the surface. If you feel the container getting warm during mixing, that is your indicator that time is rapidly running out. Need to dump it out quick on the table top and start spreading. Uncured epoxy on mixer cleans up easily with acetone.

Best Luck.

-- I'm an engineer not a woodworker, but I can randomly find useful tools and furniture inside a pile of lumber!

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AxkMan

65 posts in 242 days


#5 posted 01-30-2018 02:25 AM

Thanks for the advice. Nice projects.

It seems that is good advice to suggest waiting it out. Then most likely going back to the store and trying once the temperature settles. I will use a temperature gun and follow some of those steps you mentioned.

The old try and try again routine. I will have to be careful of thin coats in the future really. I do believe that was the ultimate folly.

Thanks for the explanation. +1…

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