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Shop made Sawstop zero clearance insert

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Forum topic by Lloyd Davies posted 03-31-2011 11:35 PM 3578 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Lloyd Davies

110 posts in 1982 days


03-31-2011 11:35 PM

Topic tags/keywords: tablesaw zero clearance insert sawstop

Has anyone made their own zero clearance insert for a Sawstop contractor saw? I was thinking of doing it myself and looking for ideas rather than paying the $39 to buy it.

Lloyd

-- Northern California http://www.lloydus.com


4 replies so far

View JSilverman's profile

JSilverman

87 posts in 1270 days


#1 posted 04-01-2011 12:40 AM

Is there a reason you can’t make it out of plywood for the SawStop like is often done for “conventional” table saws?
(just wondering since this is a fairly standard item)

View mcase's profile

mcase

438 posts in 1785 days


#2 posted 04-01-2011 12:45 AM

Lloyd,

The quick release feature on the SS insert makes it a joy to use. Its worth $39.00 over the course of a lifetime for the convenience of this feature. Just my opinion.

View knothead's profile

knothead

149 posts in 2604 days


#3 posted 04-01-2011 05:56 AM

I made one for my Saw Stop 3hp PCS after paying the $39.00 for a dado insert. I made it from 1/2” MDF and it works great! (used MDF for the first one because I wanted to see if I could make one and keep it secure in use) I first cut and shaped it to fit TIGHT in the table top, then drilled a finger hole in it near the front to allow me to pull it off when I need to.

The challenge was to replicate all the little cutouts in the bottom so it will sit correctly in the table top. I did them with a chisel and knife (remember the MDF?) after it was fitted well I put short screws in the bottom to act as levelers where needed. then cut the blade slot. after the blade slot was cut I used the bandsaw to make the slot for the riving knife/blade guard leaving the small tab of material that would exist behind the blade at full heigth and in front of the riving knife (just a little more rigid than a full slot would be). Then thinned some TBII glue very slightly and brushed it on all the edges and cutouts which really stiffened up the MDF where it had been cut or trimmed. Very happy with the result but kind of the LONG way to get there.

Then recently I saw right here on LJ where someone had made one for his older saw that used a very thin plate, he solved his problem by making the plate to fit the opening and then adding, I think 3/4” plywood to the bottom for mass and security. When I read his post I slapped myself on the forehead and thought…..”man that’s how I should have done mine!” I would add to his method a tab to the rear to better secure the insert and a rare earth magnet epoxied in the front would be just the ticket to hold it down. It’s absolutely amazing what you can learn from the folks here on Lumberjocks,

Just when you thought it was safe to go back to the shop…...........

-- So Much Wood - So Little Time! --

View Jack Colliflower's profile

Jack Colliflower

10 posts in 789 days


#4 posted 09-14-2012 03:48 AM

Yes, Lloyd, I have. But I don’t think anyone can do it. I machined mine from aluminum, anodized it, and made it compatible with a replaceable wooden insert design. I didn’t want to keep buying single and dado stock inserts over and over, at $40 a piece, so I took this project on. It’s not for the common woodworker, since it takes special equipment. So I decided to sell them, too, for SS owners. They have to be a bit pricey because of the anodization, machining time, etc. Just remember that it’s the last insert you’ll buy for your SS. Even if you decide to go to a cabinet SS, it will fit.
If you go to Infinity Tools website and do a search for it you’ll find it.
Enjoy!

-- J Colliflower

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