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Forum topic by Whofan posted 01-28-2018 02:54 PM 317 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Whofan

11 posts in 1611 days


01-28-2018 02:54 PM

Good Morning, Would someone be kind enough to steer me to a place where I can ask some specific questions on hardwood floor installation. I’m. just getting started and I’m already beyond frustrated. Any leads would be appreciated. Thanks , Kirk

-- Kirk, Upstate NY


9 replies so far

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John Smith

992 posts in 186 days


#1 posted 01-28-2018 03:11 PM

Kirk – can you post some photos of your concerns and issues ?
have you visited the Hardwood Flooring Talk website yet
http://www.hardwoodflooringtalk.com/forum/

I just purchased a home that has carpet throughout and I will be
installing wood floors in the living room, dining area and hallway soon.

-- Graduated Valedictorian from the University of HardKnocks --

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Whofan

11 posts in 1611 days


#2 posted 01-28-2018 03:30 PM

Don’t seem to have the technology to post pics at this point. Btw, thanks. I’m. Having to use a nail set with my first rows, the gun is not sinking them. When I do this the entire first rows are sliding back. There goes my straight line. I started the first row as recommended. They also recommend working L to R , if doing this you need to slice off the tongue of every slat you start with and then cut you’re last board to fit also. Lots of ups and downs. I’m mostly concerned with getting these rows back straight and having them stay there. Not at all what I had expected. Thanks for listening. Kirk

-- Kirk, Upstate NY

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John Smith

992 posts in 186 days


#3 posted 01-28-2018 04:03 PM

I am guessing you are using tongue and groove solid boards vs the “snap together” type?
Lowe’s has some some good videos on YouTube for a starting point:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ikx7I8mlVxI

if you do not fasten the first row securely, the following boards will wander off center
just as you are experiencing.
maybe you have the “left and right” confused with how you stand in the room ???
you should start with the groove side towards the wall – then there is no need to slice off the tongue
as you progress through the room. make sure you stagger the joints as in the video.
the proper size nails with the proper tools will make the job quick n easy.
as you see in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ikx7I8mlVxI the man starts on his right side.
which should be his groove side towards the wall.

and do not “assume” that the wall is straight….... believe it or not, some walls are crooked which will make
any floor crooked if you follow that as the first guide line.

what kind of wood and how thick are the boards
is there a concrete slab under the plywood subfloor
what size compressor are you running and what PSI
what type of pneumatic nailer are you using and type of nails
are you using a chalk line or following the wall contour.
use a tight string from wall to wall to double check the chalk line, if you are using one.
what kind of underlayment are you using.
how much space are you leaving between the wall and boards

-- Graduated Valedictorian from the University of HardKnocks --

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Whofan

11 posts in 1611 days


#4 posted 01-28-2018 05:50 PM

John- I’m putting down 3/4” prefinished wood slats. It is going down on 3/4” plywood with the thin foam underlayment they recommended. I’m using a bostitch 2” nailed until I can use the the angle nailer. I used a chalk line but that went south when the nails failed to hold the first row. Leaving 1/2” space around. Kirk

-- Kirk, Upstate NY

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Snipes

177 posts in 2268 days


#5 posted 01-28-2018 05:54 PM

1- clean floor well
2- rosin paper/tarpaper
3- snap line for first row. check to make sure parallel with other walls in case you want to cheat it a bit.
4- lay out first row, face nail with 16 gauge finish nails. make sure to leave room for expansion. shim behind first row to make sure it won’t slide.
5- continue on staggering seams and matching boards per your taste.

You should be able to use gun starting on second row, but make sure first board does not slide. Watch for narrower boards /pretty common. don’t need to worry about expansion with length much but watch the width. Also tap tight before using gun. Hope would has had time to acclimate.

Good luck

-- if it is to be it is up to me

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Snipes

177 posts in 2268 days


#6 posted 01-28-2018 05:58 PM

engineered wood? I’ve never used foam under real wood… Only under engineered and that’s when doing a floating application.

-- if it is to be it is up to me

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John Smith

992 posts in 186 days


#7 posted 01-28-2018 06:21 PM

I personally don’t like foam underlayment for any kind of floor.
when you walk on it gives such an artificial funky sound that is not pleasant to the ears.

when I get ready to do my floors next month, I will be doing the same as you.
3/4” real wood T&G (not engineered) with rosin paper (not foam) underlayment.
starting at the front door and working my way in around a small tiled area.
first, I will lightly mist the floor with spray adhesive to hold the first row of rosin paper in place
to insure it doesn’t move. measure out from the wall – mark in pencil – snap a blue chalk line
over that to double check the starting row is square with the wall.
then – measure the diagonal of the room to ensure it is somewhat square and then spray cheap hair spray
over the chalk line to ensure it doesn’t get lost. I like to do like roofers – chalk line every few courses
just for the peace of mind that all is going according to plan. (especially when laying floor tile).
2” (6d) finish nails should be predrilled and face nailed and set for the first row – double check again and again
for alignment.
when I get to the kitchen, I will lay new tile flush with the wood floor then continue the wood floor down the hall.
this is a 1957 concrete block home and nothing is square, plumb or level anymore and a person must
take that into consideration for any kind of renovations in their home.

you can do it !!!!!

.

-- Graduated Valedictorian from the University of HardKnocks --

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Snipes

177 posts in 2268 days


#8 posted 01-28-2018 06:54 PM

The extra lines on a floor would be a waste of time imo. On a roof you can cheat shingles down if necessary. On a floor once you start theres no cheating unless you plan on having a gap or putting in a transition strip. This is why it’s important to make sure your first row is the way you want it.. I’m not sure on the hairspray either as your chalk line would be lost in about 10 minutes anyway (once you start your second row), but everyone get’s to do it the way they want.

-- if it is to be it is up to me

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Andybb

1017 posts in 626 days


#9 posted 01-28-2018 07:11 PM

The hardwood floor thing is one of the few things I pay a pro to do. Plenty of postings on CL for guys who work for flooring companies and moonlight on the side.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

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