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Resaw Problem

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Forum topic by neverenoughtools posted 03-31-2011 04:34 PM 1833 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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neverenoughtools

10 posts in 1938 days


03-31-2011 04:34 PM

Topic tags/keywords: bandsaw cherry question

Hopefully someone can help me with this.
I cannot seem to get this right. This morning I was resawing 6/4 cherry to bookmatch into panels for doors. I was hoping for a 5/8 final thickness. All would have been fine if the blade had not curved inside the piece while resawing. I was left with a dished piece and a bulged piece. The dish would only occur in a portion of the piece. I would say only 1/4 to 1/3rd of the length of the resawn pieces had the cup and the remaining portion turned-out fine. Hopefully you understand what I’m saying—even though I’ve only known the English language I don’t use it very well.

Here are the steps I used to resaw:
-joint one face
-joint one edge 90 degrees to the freshly jointed face
-mark the opposite edge with a straight line approximately half the thickness of the board measured from the jointed face
-place jointed edge on table(table set 90 degrees to blade), align blade to line and push stock through blade adjusting for drift as necessary to maintain line on top of wood—In the past I’ve used a resaw fence adjusted for drift but found that drift would change from board to board leaving me with wedges instead of equally thick resawn boards

Bandsaw setup:
-Blade slightly forward on tires
Blade tension adjusted as follows:
-As blade was installed, back off guides and turn saw on
-tighten blade until flutter is removed
-add slightly more tension—this just about works out to where my saw says I should have the tension for a 1/2 in blade by the way
-cool blocks for guides a dollar’s width away from blades
-bearing a dollar’s width behind blade
-zero clearance insert

It is a Jet 12” bandsaw with riser and I’m using a 1/2” wood slicer blade which has not been used much so it should still be sharp enough.

Bandsaw tuning tips and/or help with my technique is greatly appreciated.


7 replies so far

View patron's profile

patron

13145 posts in 2063 days


#1 posted 03-31-2011 04:45 PM

i guess slow the cut down
seems all that’s left

if the gullets clog
the blade can follow the grain off center easier

just be patient

i’v had these frustrating problems over the years too
sometimes a knot will dull one side of the teeth
more than the other
and make the blade favor the sharp side more

can be frustrating at times
i’ve had to redesign things
to use the thinner wood then

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View MSD's profile

MSD

17 posts in 1562 days


#2 posted 03-31-2011 04:53 PM

While I’m far from an expert at resawing my guess would be your blade needs a little more tension (usually a little beyond the scale for the blade) and you need to slow down your rate of feed.
Have you rounded over the back of your blade? I’ve had good luck with the wood slicer blade. I do make sure it tracks in the center of the tire when I get the tension set where I want it. I’ve had good luck with walnut and cherry up to 8”.

-- If it's true that we are here to help others, then what exactly are the others here for?

View fussy's profile

fussy

980 posts in 1772 days


#3 posted 04-01-2011 02:24 AM

As Patron says, slow down and don’t force it. The only other flaw I see in your procedure-and it could be the problem-is the blaqde should be CENTERED on the top wheel. Cherry is pretty hard but not outrageously hard, and like any wood, some spots can be harder than others. Try centering the blade on the top wheel, slow down a bit, and maybe even walk away for a while.

Steve

-- Steve in KY. 44 years so far with my lovely bride. Think I'll keep her.

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bb71

42 posts in 1768 days


#4 posted 04-05-2011 04:57 PM

What MSD said – you need a little mroe tension on the blade. This is a common problem without enough tension. I don’t believe tracking the blade to the center of the wheels will cause this condition. Tracking will affect the drift of the blade (how far off perpendicular the blade cuts compared to the wheels).

View richgreer's profile

richgreer

4525 posts in 1796 days


#5 posted 04-05-2011 05:53 PM

The indicators on bandsaws for tension are notorious for being inaccurate. You want about 20,000 pounds per square inch of tension on the blade. I have an actual tension gauge and I find that if I set my BS based on the indicator, I am only getting about 6,000 pounds. For 1/2” blade, I set my indicator to almost an inch to get the right tension.

I assume you know that a 12” BS is not really a good size for resawing, but it can be done if you are patient.

Here is an idea to consider. Run the board through your table saw first from both sides. Take about an inch per pass but make multiple passes until the blade is as high as it can get. Then, use the bandsaw to finish the job. The bandsaw blade will seek the path of least resistance and that means it will track inside the cuts made by the table saw. The only downside is that you are cutting a wider kerf with the table saw.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

View Loren's profile

Loren

7809 posts in 2369 days


#6 posted 04-05-2011 10:46 PM

I have a 20” bandsaw with a big carbide blade and I almost never
resaw anything wider than 6 inches because of the inherent
hassles of the setup.

If the wood is at all wide, I rip the board in half and resaw the
halves, then join. Solves a lot of problems, including major
stock loss due to cupping – a situation common when resawing
flat-sawn stock and really only resolvable by ripping and jointing
anyway.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View neverenoughtools's profile

neverenoughtools

10 posts in 1938 days


#7 posted 04-06-2011 12:39 AM

Thanks for everyone’s input.
Looks like I’ll try 2 things based on your collective suggestions:
1. Tension the blade more
2. Push the stock through the saw slower.

When I said I had a 12” saw I was mistaken.
I have a 14” Jet with the 6” riser for 12” resaw capability.
I got the numbers mixed-up.

I have more resawing to do in the near future so I’ll update you with the results with my new techniques.

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