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Walker Turner Tablesaw?

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Forum topic by Floyd Hall posted 01-25-2018 03:25 AM 949 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Floyd Hall

121 posts in 391 days


01-25-2018 03:25 AM

Topic tags/keywords: tablesaw

I’m looking at a Walker Turner tablesaw for a good price. I don’t know the model number yet, but it has a very large table top. Any thoughts? I’ve heard a lot of good things about WT bandsaws. Don’t know much about the tableaus.

Floyd


15 replies so far

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Loren

10477 posts in 3768 days


#1 posted 01-25-2018 03:46 AM

Walker-Turner made machines at many price
points. They even made industrial table saws.

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GR8HUNTER

4573 posts in 833 days


#2 posted 01-25-2018 04:14 AM

i love my WT ….except for throat hole …it is super weird :<))

-- Tony---- Reinholds,Pa.------ REMEMBER TO ALWAYS HAVE FUN

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Floyd Hall

121 posts in 391 days


#3 posted 01-25-2018 04:15 AM



Walker-Turner made machines at many price
points. They even made industrial table saws.

- Loren

This one looks like a full-scale saw. Huge table top, narrow cabinet. The fence is geared and the motor is original. I’m looking to clean it up and put a better fence on it, maybe a better motor depending on how everything works.

Here’s a pic.
/Users/gailschneitler/Desktop/1-18-18 012.JPG

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Floyd Hall

121 posts in 391 days


#4 posted 01-25-2018 04:16 AM

Sorry.

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Floyd Hall

121 posts in 391 days


#5 posted 02-02-2018 02:57 AM

Okay. Here are some more photos:

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GR8HUNTER

4573 posts in 833 days


#6 posted 02-02-2018 04:11 AM

if you happen to buy this saw …and figure out how to make a Z.C.I. please let me know …THANKS :<))

-- Tony---- Reinholds,Pa.------ REMEMBER TO ALWAYS HAVE FUN

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Floyd Hall

121 posts in 391 days


#7 posted 02-02-2018 04:30 AM

Apparently it’s doable, but tricky. And you can’t do a dado stack more than 3/4. My big question, though, is whether the motor is capable of comfortably ripping 8/4 hardwood—oak/hickory/maple, etc. That alone might make the saw worth it. As it is, I can’t figure out how much more it would give me than my Powermatic 64A contractor’s saw.

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GR8HUNTER

4573 posts in 833 days


#8 posted 02-02-2018 03:39 PM

IMO ….these older 1 HP motors seem to deliver as much power as needed ….mine seems like a 3HP ..i do have a quality blade on it and always keep it sharp ….wish Loren or Brad would chime in here to back me up :<))
on what i am saying here …PLUS all other WT owners here there are some :<))

-- Tony---- Reinholds,Pa.------ REMEMBER TO ALWAYS HAVE FUN

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Loren

10477 posts in 3768 days


#9 posted 02-02-2018 04:07 PM

There’s a group of people on owwm.org discussing
having Walker-Turner t-shirts made. I don’t even
own any W-T stuff right now and I want the shirt.

Regarding those old motors, a machinery rebuilder
told me the old repulsion motors had more copper
in the windings and more muscle for the amps they
draw than the newer induction motors.

The motor on the saw shown is an induction motor,
but again, it’s older and may have more copper in
it than newer ones. People do say the older ones seem
to have more muscle and I concur with that based
on my own experience.

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TheFridge

10129 posts in 1606 days


#10 posted 02-02-2018 04:18 PM

I could agree with the hp assessment on older motors. I have a 1-1/2 hp that rips 8/4 maple and walnut with ease.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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Floyd Hall

121 posts in 391 days


#11 posted 02-02-2018 08:03 PM

Thanks all.

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GR8HUNTER

4573 posts in 833 days


#12 posted 02-03-2018 01:31 AM

MINE RIPS 12/4 ALDER WITH EASE :<))

-- Tony---- Reinholds,Pa.------ REMEMBER TO ALWAYS HAVE FUN

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Planeman40

1239 posts in 2881 days


#13 posted 02-03-2018 02:09 AM



if you happen to buy this saw …and figure out how to make a Z.C.I. please let me know …THANKS :<))

- GR8HUNTER

I have never seen this “hole”, but I understand it is an odd shape. I had a similar problem with my Hammer sliding table saw. The hole was long and narrow and an odd shape. I used aluminum for the material and copied the odd shape by taping down a piece of paper over the hole, then rubbing the side of a pencil lead around the edge of the hole. Doing this will nicely trace the edge underneath. This will give you the shape. Tape the paper on the top of the aluminum and cut out using a bandsaw. Wood cutting blades work fine with soft aluminum, just make sure the blade has enough teeth to always have a minimum of two teeth in the cut at all times (an old rule when working with metals to keep from stripping out the saw teeth). Do some filing and fitting to make the aluminum sit well in the saw blade hole. Somehow, clamp the aluminum down so it can’t lift up from the hole, then slowly raise the running saw blade up and let it cut its way through the aluminum, making its own slot. Use a carbide tipped saw blade, of course. You can buy the aluminum you need through http://www.onlinemetals.com/. They sell small pieces and cut to size if needed. Also, if needed, you can cut a lip on the aluminum using a carbide router bit and a router.

-- Always remember: It is a mathematical certainty that half the people in this country are below average in intelligence!

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GR8HUNTER

4573 posts in 833 days


#14 posted 02-03-2018 02:32 PM

this is it :<))
almost impossible to do anything …but thanks for your help trying Planeman40 :<))

-- Tony---- Reinholds,Pa.------ REMEMBER TO ALWAYS HAVE FUN

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Floyd Hall

121 posts in 391 days


#15 posted 02-03-2018 05:55 PM

I’m thinking, if I decide to buy it, this saw will be used mostly for ripping for heavier stock. I’ll keep the contractor’s saw for lighter cuts. It also has a wing that you can attach to the front or back. I figure I will attach it to the front were you get 17 1/2i to the blade and make a nice cross-cut sled. The contractor’s saw is not really deep enough for any type of decent sled, which is why I haven’t made one.

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