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Forum topic by stevesimon posted 01-24-2018 07:31 PM 2800 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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stevesimon

2 posts in 320 days


01-24-2018 07:31 PM

Hoisted the lathe up on top of my workbench and cleaned the grease off… Waxed the bedways and put a piece of what I think is RedHeart between centers. The belts are set to low speed, the work is 1.5” by 1.5” and is 16 inches long. Found centers. But the moment I put a cutting tool to the work I get a nasty sounding clickity clack and or the work stops rotating. I am using very light touching (as this was day one using the machine).

How deep must I bang in a Spur drive so as to prevent a lose of drive?

The first project is handles for the carbide cutters & shafts I bought on Ebay; so I am using some old (definitely not high end) cutters until I can turn handles for the new ones. Is it likely that my difficulty cutting the piece is due to dull blade?

A game plan for starting out would be nice, thoughts?


6 replies so far

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LesB

1857 posts in 3641 days


#1 posted 01-24-2018 07:57 PM

Game plan I would recommend is taking a class on turning or having someone with experience help you. It will greatly reduce the learning curve and avoid mistakes. Failing that try watching a bunch of U tube videos or reading some basic turning books (what I did before the computer existed). It just can’t all be explained in this thread.

In your description I don’t think you had the spur set (I usually pre cut an X with a saw) and possibly needed more pressure from the tail stock. Always work with sharp tools. Also learn how to apply each tool to the wood being turned. Most beginners start with a basic round nosed scraping tool or gouge. Slow speed is not always your friend. I seldom go less than 800 rpm unless I’m turning a large diameter (14”+) piece. Inexpensive cutters can work fine if they are kept sharp but if the metal is poor quality it will not hold an edge long. Also carbide is great but I think your will find that as you approach the final cuts on a piece that a quality sharp high speed steel will work better.

It won’t take long and you will have some more specific questions for the forum and be hooked on turning.

-- Les B, Oregon

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Woodknack

12430 posts in 2578 days


#2 posted 01-24-2018 08:05 PM

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

7770 posts in 3112 days


#3 posted 01-24-2018 08:27 PM

+10 for post #1

Rinse and repeat the above 4-5 times or more. The only thing I might add, is to make sure of getting the proper height and distance of your tool/cutter rest. Suggest watching the following from Cap’n Eddie Castelin:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ac4jLTvXL3M

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

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Wildwood

2469 posts in 2332 days


#4 posted 01-24-2018 08:46 PM

I do a lot of turning between centers using the drive and live center. Begin by finding centers and mark them taking an awl and mallet so points of drive & live center fit, also before mounting hit the end of drive center with the mallet seating in the wood. Then mount drive center & wood in headstock and bring up my live center mounted in tail stock. I will lock tailstock in place and snug up live center with hand wheel. Then rotate the blank by hand making sure have a good fit. Don’t really need to over tighten with the hand wheel.

Yes, some wood species you snug it up more than normal to keep it from slipping as you turn. In the old days you sawed an X into end where mounted four prong/spur drive center. That no longer works with many of the four prong/spur drive centers that come with new lathes.

More than twenty years ago bought a 2 prong/spur center from these folks and have been using it on almost every thing I turn. Over many years prongs needed sharpening and have adusted center point but still works like new. Of course cost few dollars less back then.

You can find less expensive ones at different vendors. A 2 prong drive center will give you a more secure hold over 4 prong or step center. Another great feature is wood ends do not need to square before mounting between centers. Have two different types but use the first one the most.

https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/107/313/Precision-Machine-2-Prong-Drive-Center?term=2+prong+drive+center

http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=packard&Product_Code=116159&Category_Code=lathes-acc-dc-2p

Of course if buy a 4-jaw scroll chuck won’t always need a drive center depending upon chuck you buy or size wood and what are turning.

-- Bill

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stevesimon

2 posts in 320 days


#5 posted 01-24-2018 09:04 PM

Thanks for the quick response. I’ve watched a dozen of Captain Eddie’s videos, same for Carl Jacobson, Jim Overton and many others.

That said the feel for what is happening sometimes can only be learned by doing. So I will (as was said) “Rinse and Repeat”.

In the meantime I checked the “Seating” of the spur drive it appears to be secure. Alignments are spot on. I took out my sharpening stones and attempted to put a better edge on a few of the old cutters.
I will try again tomorrow using the round nose roughing gouge; but I may also try some softer stock just for practice (maybe some pine will allow me to get the feel more easily than than the rock hard red heart I was experimenting with today. BTW, I don’t have a chuck yet, but I might try using the faceplate with a glue block as well. Cheers!

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HorizontalMike

7770 posts in 3112 days


#6 posted 01-24-2018 09:13 PM

What really helped me on the lathe were these Versa Chisels:
https://www.pennstateind.com/store/LCVERSA3.html

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

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