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Glue Cleanup on Pre-Stained Wood

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Forum topic by kocgolf posted 01-23-2018 09:49 PM 362 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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kocgolf

333 posts in 2258 days


01-23-2018 09:49 PM

I have really searched, yes even Google, but can’t find a definite answer here. I am going to do some pre-staining of some pieces before assembly. Not something I have done, but I need to stain some oak that will then it will be joined with some un-stained walnut. Then a poly over it all. Now, there is bound to be squeeze out, in corners no less, on the mating areas. What process is recommended for removing glue at this point? I can’t chisel and sand it away like normal because I will remove stain. I suppose I could chisel it carefully, but likely some would remain. Would I be better off wet rag wiping it away immediately? Will that have any effect on a oil (Varathane) stain after 24 hours of dry time?


9 replies so far

View Gilley23's profile

Gilley23

489 posts in 462 days


#1 posted 01-23-2018 09:55 PM

Let the stain cure before working with it. If not you’re asking for potential trouble. Keep the piece warm and it’ll cure quicker.

View Kelster58's profile

Kelster58

670 posts in 620 days


#2 posted 01-23-2018 10:11 PM

I use a good quality painters tape on my pieces before glue up. if you are careful applying the tape on the pieces that should do the trick. Dry fit before gluing to be sure no tape gets into the joint. Wipe the squeezed out glue off the tape, remove the tape and hopefully there will be a perfect joint underneath.

-- K. Stone “Tell me and I forget, teach me and I may remember, involve me and I learn.” ― Benjamin Franklin

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kocgolf

333 posts in 2258 days


#3 posted 01-23-2018 10:16 PM

Hmm, tape is a good idea if I am careful. I’ve had some issues with trying to “tape off” areas in the past, but in this case I bet it helps.

How long do you think I should let the stain cure before glue up? More than a day or two?

To be clear, I definitely WON’T be staining the face the is supposed to receive the glue.

View Kelster58's profile

Kelster58

670 posts in 620 days


#4 posted 01-23-2018 10:27 PM

How long do you think I should let the stain cure before glue up? More than a day or two?

- kocgolf

I would let the stain sit at least 48 hours before glue up…....(Just my opinion) I wouldn’t think tape would stick well enough to the stained wood if the stain is not cured well. My preference is Frog Tape. Expensive but worth it. (again just my humble opinion)

Let us know what you do and how it worked out.

I peeked at your projects. You do very nice work!!!!

-- K. Stone “Tell me and I forget, teach me and I may remember, involve me and I learn.” ― Benjamin Franklin

View Woodknack's profile

Woodknack

12213 posts in 2460 days


#5 posted 01-23-2018 10:33 PM

I would prefinish the wood before glue up, and don’t go crazy with the glue. The excess should pop right off. You can either mask the glue surfaces with painters tape or joint them after finishing. Note, you don’t need to go to a final finish, just get a coat or two on there to keep the glue from sticking.

-- Rick M, http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

View shipwright's profile

shipwright

8031 posts in 2877 days


#6 posted 01-23-2018 11:07 PM

This is a pva glue problem.
Hide glues clean up easily with water and won’t block subsequent finishes. I almost never use pva anymore. This is not the only reason but it is a big one.

-- Paul M ..............the early bird may get the worm but it’s the second mouse that gets the cheese! http://thecanadianschooloffrenchmarquetry.com/

View AxkMan's profile

AxkMan

65 posts in 206 days


#7 posted 01-23-2018 11:14 PM

From the projects you do, all of the above make sense. Stain should at least sit for 24 hours. After this there will be some residue, but this is normal. The glue itself can be worked easily off with a plastic putty knife within 1 hour. Longer hours will be tougher. Most glues do not stick easily to stains but may slightly affect the finish…

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kocgolf

333 posts in 2258 days


#8 posted 01-23-2018 11:21 PM

Already, lots of good strategies here. Thanks everyone. I have considered hide glue but never used it, and I don’t think this is the project to try it for the first time. It’s a commission piece that needs to get done. I will definitely experiment with it in the future.

I just realized I have a handful of test stain pieces laying around. I am going to “oops” some little bits of glue on them tonight and then test methods for removing. Including a quick scrape after 20 or so minutes of set up time. I will trying with tape as well. Overall, I’m just going to be extremely careful with glue amounts when it comes to the real thing.

View LesB's profile

LesB

1790 posts in 3523 days


#9 posted 01-23-2018 11:28 PM

With PVA I just use a wet paper towel ( or two) to clean it up as soon after assembly as I can. Try not to get the glue joint too wet as this can weaken the bond.

Urethane glue squeeze out just bubbles up into a “foam” and can easily be sliced or scraped away, usually without damage to the surface below. It takes a very thin coat of urethane glue for each application and dampening one side of the joint with water to accelerate the cure process. The thin coat also reduces the chance of squeeze out.

-- Les B, Oregon

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