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Forum topic by Lmagee posted 03-28-2011 06:54 AM 1553 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Lmagee

6 posts in 1273 days


03-28-2011 06:54 AM

This is my first time on LJ. I have a few older ladies that live near me. They have walnut and pecan trees that need to be cut down. What is the best way to cut them, load them, and finding a saw mill? I live in OKC and hate to see good trees cut for firewood! Thanks Lando

-- Landon, Choctaw OK.


15 replies so far

View TopamaxSurvivor's profile

TopamaxSurvivor

14752 posts in 2332 days


#1 posted 03-28-2011 07:58 AM

I like my Stihl 041 Super chainsaw and my front end loader. Sure beats that by hand stuff!!

-- "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

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weirdone

9 posts in 1305 days


#2 posted 03-28-2011 08:14 AM

You might have trouble getting someone to saw yard trees, But the wood sounds real fine.

-- Harold, Finger Lakes, NY

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TheWoodsman

65 posts in 1552 days


#3 posted 03-29-2011 12:49 AM

Call Wood-Mizer and they can give you names of sawmill owners in your area.
http://www.woodmizer.com/us/ContactUs.aspx

If they are yard trees, the lower 6’ or so is suspect. I don’t mind cutting logs with possible metal as long as my customer understands they are responsible for the full cost of the blade and if I get stuck in the log I will have to free the mill by cutting into the log with a chainsaw.

-- I'm the Woodsman . . . the four-wheelin', tree-farmin', custom-furniture-makin' descendant of Olaf "The Woodcutter" Ingjaldsson.

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Jesse

105 posts in 1518 days


#4 posted 03-29-2011 04:50 AM

If you are looking for someone to take some of the excess lumber off your hands, I have a buddy south of Lawton that says he can never find any wood.

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Lmagee

6 posts in 1273 days


#5 posted 03-29-2011 05:31 PM

What diameter is too small to mess with? Do I cut them and paint the ends with a certain paint? Let them dry before finding a mill? These neighbors just want them removed. People were going to charge them an astronomical price to cut for fire wood.

-- Landon, Choctaw OK.

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rwde

41 posts in 2214 days


#6 posted 03-29-2011 05:53 PM

The Woodmizer folks were a great resource for me. I had some huge oaks taken down, and refused to turn them into firewood. Woodmizer referred me to several of their customers with portable mills in my area. Also found a local Timber King owner through some googling – his mill was larger, and he handled the biggest logs for me. You should paint the log ends as soon as you can, before you cut into boards – much less effort than doing it board by board.

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HerbC

1167 posts in 1515 days


#7 posted 03-29-2011 06:03 PM

Landon,

If your not going to have it quartersawn then 12” diameter on the small end would be reasonable if the log was straight and reasonably free of defects like major knots, hollow and rotten spots, etc.

Generally you want to have them milled as soon as possible. Drying in log form is not required or recommended.

Coat the ends with a good endsealer if possible (Anchorseal works well). Do this as soon as possible after felling the trees and cutting into sawlog lengths.

Good Luck and …

Be Careful!

Herb

-- Herb, Florida - Here's why I close most messages with "Be Careful!" http://lumberjocks.com/HerbC/blog/17090

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TopamaxSurvivor

14752 posts in 2332 days


#8 posted 03-29-2011 08:29 PM

Herb, Why is log drying not recommended?

-- "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

View Bertha's profile

Bertha

12951 posts in 1349 days


#9 posted 03-29-2011 08:32 PM

^I was wondering the same thing. I have many felled trees on my property that have been “aging” out there.

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

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dbray45

2503 posts in 1433 days


#10 posted 03-29-2011 09:06 PM

I may have an idea, most of the time, people let these sit on the ground. This doesn’t work, the mills that I know that let it sit, will do this for up to 2 years before cutting. It is better to cut it, sticker it, and let it air dry for about 2-3 seasons before kiln drying. If it is a 12/4×12” piece of white oak, let it air dry for 2 years. Always cover from the elements and sunlight and allow good air movement.

The premise of sealing the ends is to slow the drying and allow the process evenly from all sides. with end grain open, the wood can check up to 6” down the board.

-- David in Damascus, MD

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TopamaxSurvivor

14752 posts in 2332 days


#11 posted 03-29-2011 09:19 PM

I have a bunch of maple and alder that I split down the middle at are of the ground in an open shed. I didn’t have time to do much more with them last year. I don’t really know what I’m doing, just sort of experimenting ;-) with an educated guess with the time available

-- "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

View HerbC's profile

HerbC

1167 posts in 1515 days


#12 posted 03-29-2011 09:36 PM

TopomaxSurvivor and Bertha,

Not recommended because first of all, most logs would take a very long time to dry enough to matter from the useability point of view. Also, logs drying have an even greater tendency to degrade by checking and splitting. The process of cutting the logs into lumber allows some of the stresses caused by uneven drying to be relieved.

Of course I’m a good one to give advice. I have a couple of thousand board feet ofg cypress that was cut and stored as logs for about three years. I didn’t loose too much of it to degradation during the log storage phase. On the other hand I’ve good quite a bit of borer damage that was done during the log storage phase on the 1000 bf of sycamore…

I wish you both the best of luck with the logs you have.

Be Cafeful!

Herb

-- Herb, Florida - Here's why I close most messages with "Be Careful!" http://lumberjocks.com/HerbC/blog/17090

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TheWoodsman

65 posts in 1552 days


#13 posted 03-30-2011 01:22 AM

Herb is giving good advice. Anything with bark still on will attract the bugs first.

Also, in log form large cracks will form and every board later sawn from the log will include these big cracks. If you coat the end as soon as the logs are cut and get the logs sawn within a few weeks you may avoid any cracking at all. I have red oak lumber which I did this too and they didn’t crack at all. The ends are usable right out to the last inch. I generally use up any old oil based paint or varnish on the ends first and when I run out of that I use Anchorseal. I always use a couple good coats on the log ends. I tried latex before but water based paint doesn’t stick well to logs ends that are wet. It just flakes off.

-- I'm the Woodsman . . . the four-wheelin', tree-farmin', custom-furniture-makin' descendant of Olaf "The Woodcutter" Ingjaldsson.

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TopamaxSurvivor

14752 posts in 2332 days


#14 posted 03-30-2011 04:13 AM

I have used latex paint and have noticed some flaking. Thanks for the info guys. Guess I’d better cut it up as soon as I have some time,

-- "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

View Lmagee's profile

Lmagee

6 posts in 1273 days


#15 posted 04-01-2011 05:29 AM

Thanks everyone for the great info. Hopefully I can manage the logs with a tractor and chainsaw.
Landon

-- Landon, Choctaw OK.

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