Coping saw

I second that!

-- Eric at http://adventuresinwoodworking.com

Betsy – I hope this is what you were looking for …

Here’s how the saw looks disassembled.

The blade has little pins on each end that fit into hooks on the saw.

Orient the blade to cut in the direction you prefer (I learned to push, but the blade will go in either way), and catch the pins in the hooks.

If the frame is too tight to get the blade on the hooks, hold the little lever on the hook by the handle, and turn the handle counter-clockwise to loosen. Once the blade is in the hooks, hold the lever by the handle and turn the handle clockwise to tighten.

If you don’t hold the lever, the blade will turn into a spiral!

Keep turning that handle until it won’t tighten anymore. When the saw is nearly as tight as it will go, make sure the two little levers line up so there is no twist in the blade.

I find it useful to have the blade at a 30-45 degree angle to the frame.

My dad is from Louisiana, and he calls some tools by a different name than most folks around here (I never ask him for a Monkey Wrench!), so I hope this is the tool you were asking about!

-- http://www.north40custom.com -- http://north40studios.etsy.com --

Great series of pictures Peter!

Betsy, you might also want to put the blade on so that it cuts when you pull it towards you.

I find that you get better control, but that’s a personal choice as Peter says.

I first learned to cut on the push stroke but found that I liked the pull stroke better.

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

I am a pull stroke guy, too. Nice explanation Peter.

Hi Betsy,

Like Gary and rikkor I like the pull stroke as well. And angling the blade will make removal of the waste a little easier.

-- With God's help all things are possible- even woodworking. Woodworking is not just a hobby, it is an (expletive deleted) expensive hobby.

Peter – that’s perfect! I think I can get it now. I appreciate the time it took you to do the pictures and the explanation. I’m sure it will help more than just me.

I’ll try sawing on the push and pull strokes to see what I like better. Kind of like those dovetails – some like to do tails first some pins first. I’ll also try angling the blade.

I really appreciate all the help I get on LJs. I’ve learned that if you are not afraid to ask the question, no one is afraid to give an answer. I’m really glad I found this site.

-- You can't get a hug from Facebook.

Like I said, I was taught to cut on the push, and for a long time I never really thought about the possibility of pulling. Then I got ahold of some pull saws, which I loved. The next time I put a blade in a coping saw, I thought pulling might work there too. I could follow the line just as well either way, but I found that the bottom side of my cut wandered a lot more on the pull (not sure why that should be). So I went back to what I know!

-- http://www.north40custom.com -- http://north40studios.etsy.com --

I also learned to cut on the push, but recently tried the pulls stroke and find my accuracy is better. -SST

-- Accuracy is not in your power tool, it's in you

I have heard arguments for both sides. One opinion was the tension on the blade will remain more constant when used in the pull method. It does make sense when you look at the way the saw is made. Pushing may actually reduse blade tension if the blade gets restricted in th cut. That could be why some mention more accurate cuts using the pull method.

-- Bill in Newmarket

I’ve always had tension problems with my saw. Even when I have the handle tightened to the max I can’t seem to get away from the blade wanting to bend this way and that when I cut.

Admittedly, the saw I have has been in my tool box longer than I can remember and that means it was bought when I was very young which also means it probably wasn’t the best quality saw to begin with. Blades are new, though.

Here’s a thought, do you need to remove the blade/tension when storing the saw?

~DB

-- He said wood...http://hickbyassociation.blogspot.com/

DB – A coping saw doesn’t put enough tension to matter at all.

If you mount the blade to cut on the pull stroke the tension won’t really matter.
It’s like the difference between pulling on a piece of string vs pushing it.

Pulling it straightens it out.

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

Betsy,

Do yourself a favor when handcutting dovetails, put your coping saw away and get a fret saw. You can get much closer to the line with a fret saw and its much easier to use. Also, you get to use scroll saw blades which will fit in the saw kerf better.

Jeff

-- Jeff, Indiana