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Crosscut sleds: 1-wing vs 2-wing

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Forum topic by homercal posted 01-16-2018 08:42 PM 1880 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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homercal

3 posts in 269 days


01-16-2018 08:42 PM

Topic tags/keywords: jigs crosscut-sled

Good day everyone. I’d like to sample to collective wisdom of the forum with regards to crosscut sldes for the table saw.

I am curious about what is perceived to be the strategic advantages/disadvantages to a 1-wing (i.e., material supported only on one side of the blade) versus a 2-wing (i.e., material supported on both sides of the blade).

”1-wing” example

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwj325GRoN3YAhUGKKwKHapbCiwQjRwIBw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.woodworkersjournal.com%2Frockler-portable-crosscut-sled%2F&psig=AOvVaw1_Fgd4gAorvxg6Dpkozv86&ust=1516218427281108

”2-wing” example

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjA5czhoN3YAhVjjK0KHYPTDWAQjRwIBw&url=http%3A%2F%2Flumberjocks.com%2Fprojects%2F170706&psig=AOvVaw1_Fgd4gAorvxg6Dpkozv86&ust=1516218427281108


9 replies so far

View Loren's profile

Loren

10396 posts in 3647 days


#1 posted 01-16-2018 08:46 PM

2 sided ones are more versatile, but tend
to be heavier and more work to make.

There was a design from Woodsmith or
some publication where one side could be
slid in and out to use dado blades or for
zero clearance cuts in chip-prone materials.
It looked like a fuss to make but I think the
feature would be useful.

View sras's profile

sras

4799 posts in 3128 days


#2 posted 01-16-2018 10:25 PM

Here is a link the the Woodsmith design Loren referenced.

Here is a link to a project page of my version of it.

2 wing designs let you cut on either side of the blade. They also are a bit better in keeping a small cutoff from falling next to the blade.

-- Steve - Impatience is Expensive

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jerryminer

923 posts in 1440 days


#3 posted 01-17-2018 05:53 AM

2 wings do offer more support and the ability to cut on either side of the blade.

But my go-to is one-wing. It is easier to build, lighter, and the fit in the table groove is not as fussy—but there is a technique issue that should be followed: When I feed the work into the blade, I put slight lateral pressure toward the blade, so I am using ONE edge of the table groove as my reference. On the return stroke, I pull the sled slightly away from the blade, (pressing the runner against the other side of the table groove) so the blade does not touch the work on the return stroke. Whatever “slop” I have in the runner-to-groove fit is taken out by the lateral pressure, and the work is moved away from the blade by that “slop” amount on the return stroke.

Hope that makes sense

-- Jerry, making sawdust professionally since 1976

View JAAune's profile

JAAune

1799 posts in 2315 days


#4 posted 01-17-2018 06:03 AM

I used to have both and used both depending upon what needed cutting. A simple, one-wing sled is great for screwing into. They’re so easy to make I didn’t feel bad about filling mine with screw holes whenever I needed a quick taper.

Now the shop is equipped with a slider so the sleds are a thing of the past.

-- See my work at http://remmertstudios.com and http://altaredesign.com

View ChefHDAN's profile

ChefHDAN

1062 posts in 2848 days


#5 posted 01-17-2018 12:57 PM

I have both, the 1 wing was built first a la Norm’s panel sled, and then I later built a 2 wing for doing cross cuts. With only a single rear fence the single is great for trimming the ends of panels and pieces which do not fit between the front & rear fences on the cross cut sled.

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

View OleGrump's profile

OleGrump

167 posts in 343 days


#6 posted 01-17-2018 01:26 PM

I have a two wing sled with a front and rear fence. I find this very useful in general crosscutting and when cutting small parts. (Especially as I have not gotten around to making the zero-clearance insert on my “To-Do” List) If I am making multiple cuts of the same length, I clamp a stop block to rear fence. Blocks to hold stock down can be clamped to either fence or both if desired. One needs a separate sled for cutting panels or sheet goods. I cut really long stock with the compound miter and it’s attendant support stands.

-- OleGrump

View Lazyman's profile

Lazyman

1964 posts in 1386 days


#7 posted 01-17-2018 01:42 PM

In my opinion the main advantage of the 1- sided sled, besides it being a little easier to make, is that because you only need one fence so you can cross cut wider pieces. If you make it for the miter slot that the blade tilts away from, you can also use it with the blade tilted at an angle and with a dado blade without butchering your sled base with each new setup. Once you do that with a 1-sided sled, it easy for a small cut off to fall into the wider slot and get mangled or ejected. You also don’t have to have as tall of a fence which sometimes may come in handy.

With the 2-sided sled, you get better support for both sides of the cut and the zero clearance nature also helps get cleaner cuts. I personally like being able to hold longer boards on both sides of the blade. It just feels more secure and you can also clamp a really long board to the fence on both sides so that it has less tendency to pivot off after the the cut making those cuts a little safer. A 2-sided fence also makes it easier and safer to make cuts on small pieces. I also like to be able to clamp a stop block to the fence for making repetitive cuts, especially on smaller pieces. When using the 1-sided sled with small pieces, not only can you only hold one side of the piece but the small pieces that you are cutting tend to fall against the blade and can sometimes be damaged of even flung away if they fall just wrong.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

View pete724's profile

pete724

55 posts in 807 days


#8 posted 01-18-2018 02:45 PM

Why not make and use BOTH.

one runner and only one fence the fence can be lower than the blade height .
Make the fence pivot and you have a “dubby” than can do angled cuts.
This one useable with dado blades and tilted blade cuts.
Cut one side with the sled in one of the miter slots with the blade at 90.
Then move to the other miter slot and cut the other side with the blade at 45.
The disadvantage is no zero clearance because the workpiece is above the table, which may give tearout on the bottom of the workpiece, and also it has limited back support for tall workpieces..

Make the “2 wing” one also. zero clearance bottom AND back support but the fences MUST be taller than the blade height to keep from cutting the sled in half. Stop blocks for repeated cuts work well with this one. Also hold downs are good with this one for small stuff.

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TheFridge

9468 posts in 1485 days


#9 posted 01-18-2018 06:41 PM

I use a 2fer. 26×26. I just pull the front fence if I have to trim a door or something. It’s a little heavy but it works.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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