Finish suggestions for a dining room tabletop

On table tops, I like using tung oil as a base then 8 to 10 thin coats of Minwax wipe-on varnish, scuff-sanding (320 grit) every 2 coats. Then polish with natural beeswax.

Hi Trev

Laminate with wood trim is the best kid proof top. I have always used 2 coats of poly urethane and wax on my solid tops. You can sand and refinish after there older. Then theres the grand kids!

Tom

-- Mc Bridge Cabinets, Iowa

Polyurethane. It’s water proof and as Tom said, it’s easy to sand and add another coat later.

You can repair it at any time.

If you want a satin finish just put that on last. Use a couple of coats high gloss under it because it’s
tougher.

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

I prefer to use poly for table tops like this. It is going to take a beating and liquid spills on it. Poly stands to a lot of abuse and is easy to repair.

-- With God's help all things are possible- even woodworking. Woodworking is not just a hobby, it is an (expletive deleted) expensive hobby.

Thanks for the advice men.

I should not be as hard on the new table as I was on the old one. Now that I have heat in my shop, I won’t have to clean fish, grind venison or use the Queens table as a woodworking bench. Voice from the family room…”Can you please only bang on that %$#& chisel during commercials”.

Trev

-- Trevor Premer Head Termite and Servant to the Queen - Heirloom Woodworking

Trev, I use wipe on Poly that I mix 75% gloss and 15% mineral spirits. I usually seal with a coat of Bullseye shellac and then scuff sand between coats. Use lots of coats and then you can control the gloss with buffing and wax. I use the gloss because you do not need to stir it which raises bubbles.

-- Thos. Angle, Owyhee Design, Oregon

Trev, I have done a few tables in the recent past and I find that by using a wipe on poly I can buld up the finsih pretty quickly. I lay on very thin coats and they only take about 15 minutes to dry. I then run my hand over the surface to check for dust nibs and if there only a few, I lay on another coat. When I do feel more, I will quickly knock them down with 400 grit. Once I get the finish built up enough, I will then rub it out with 600 up to 1200 wet sanding. That will take care of the rest of dust nibbs and will remove any ridges in the finish. When that is done, I move to my buffer, with a quick run of automotive rubbing compound followed by a couple of very thin coats of wax. That will leave me with a very high gloss finish. If i want a satin finish, I skip the rubbing compound and hand apply the wax. It doesn’t take as long as it sounds. I can ususally finish a table top in about 3 or 4 eveings.

-- Greg - Charles Town, WV

I use Poly. It was designed for wooden flooring so it’s designed to be tough. Let each coat dry hard (at least 24 hours) then power sand with 220 grit to remove the “nubs”. Your topcoat won’t get sanded of course and it will be as smooth as glass. I usually go just two coats but more will protect more. Satin seems to look best and hides minor scratches, but gloss will make your project glow in the dark! And like Gary said, “It’s easy to repair.”

-- Bob Vila would be so proud of you!

When my kid was home, I made tables with a plexiglass table cover ;]

-- Tim -- http://tmuli.com

General Finishec Arm.R .seal

-- WOOD/DON (...one has the right to ones opinion but not the right to ones own facts...)

I’d suggest the polyurethane, as well. Best water protection.

-- Maplewood, MN