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scoring cuts in veneered material, like melamine

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Forum topic by toolie posted 01-14-2018 03:01 PM 415 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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toolie

2141 posts in 2742 days


01-14-2018 03:01 PM

I needed to rip pieces of melamine coated material for a project. I made scoring rips using a ZCI on each side of the material (with almost no chip out) but still got more than anticipated chip out on the underside of the material (the side of the material resting on the table saw top) when making the thru cut.

I happened onto this video @ Woodgears:

https://woodgears.ca/shop-tricks/tearout.html

I’m wondering if a scoring rip cut pushed the length of a 48” piece of material from the rear of the saw towards the operator’s position would cause the material to be thrown in the direction of the spinning blade as the minimal depth scoring cut should not, according to Mathias, provide enough grip to hurl the work piece from the hand of the operator.

I dismissed the idea of tape and scoring with a drywall knife. Tape probably isn’t substantial enough to really help and a drywall knife only provides a thin scoring line while the blade, @ 1/8” wide, has two scoring edges.

Just wondering what the group thinks about this or if there are any other fool proof methods of ripping veneered material while avoiding chip out.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.


8 replies so far

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

2670 posts in 3036 days


#1 posted 01-14-2018 03:45 PM

Have you tried applying tape, before cutting, top and bottom, on the cut line?

-- No PHD just a DD214 Website> craftingcouple.com

View Ripper70's profile

Ripper70

1108 posts in 1023 days


#2 posted 01-14-2018 03:51 PM

If you’re thinking of trying this with a full sheet of 3/4” material and only making a 1/16” or 1/32” scoring cut, the weight of the wood will probably heavy enough to offer adequate control of the cut. I think it could work. Having a second set of hands on the operator’s side of the table might be safer since you probably will need some outfeed support.

-- "You know, I'm such a great driver, it's incomprehensible that they took my license away." --Vince Ricardo

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

8343 posts in 2691 days


#3 posted 01-14-2018 06:17 PM

How about using a blade designed for melamine?

View Loren's profile

Loren

10477 posts in 3762 days


#4 posted 01-14-2018 06:26 PM

There was some discussion recently on the
Festool Owners Group of this topic. Various
methods were mentioned to reduce chipout
but there was a general agreement that
melamine got from commercial suppliers was
far less prone to it compared with big box
suppliers.

View BurlyBob's profile

BurlyBob

5892 posts in 2379 days


#5 posted 01-14-2018 06:31 PM

I’ve found that a very shallow cut on either side will reduce chipping to virtually nothing. Also when I make the final cut I never let the saw teeth extend past the surface of the material. I’m using a WW 2 thin kerf.

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

4353 posts in 2423 days


#6 posted 01-14-2018 06:54 PM



There was some discussion recently on the
Festool Owners Group of this topic. Various
methods were mentioned to reduce chipout
but there was a general agreement that
melamine got from commercial suppliers was
far less prone to it compared with big box
suppliers.

- Loren


+1 not all melamine is created equal.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View toolie's profile

toolie

2141 posts in 2742 days


#7 posted 01-19-2018 03:09 PM



How about using a blade designed for melamine?

- waho6o9

I cant believe I overlooked something so obvious. I might even have that blade already! Thanks!

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View jbay's profile

jbay

2578 posts in 1013 days


#8 posted 01-19-2018 09:19 PM

Typically, Melamine blades have a -5 degree (negative) hook.
They also need to be sharp or your losing the battle.

It’s all about the angle the teeth hit the surface.
I have cut miles of melamine and if the blade is to low it will chip out the top, too high and more chipping on the bottom. You need to find the happy medium.

When all else fails raise the blade about 1/16” and score the bottom first and raise the blade to about 3/4” above the surface to make the final cut. Your mileage may very, because as they have said above, different melamines have different qualities.

(Please don’t run your material backwards through the saw.)

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