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Delta 36-725 table saw motor brush replacement

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Forum topic by bearswamp posted 01-10-2018 07:47 PM 2123 views 0 times favorited 39 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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bearswamp

13 posts in 159 days


01-10-2018 07:47 PM

Topic tags/keywords: tablesaw question

Hi All. I am hoping someone has already been through this exercise and could help with some information. Some background on my issue, I recently purchased a 36-725 from a cabinet maker in my area at a good price. However, the motor seems a bit weak. The blade slows when cutting material 3/4” inch and thicker. I am sure there are some hours on the saw, so my first instinct is the brushes need to be replaced. So after looking at the delta parts list, there is no part structure beneath the motor, nor can I turn up any web searches for the brushes.

So I start to take a closer look at the motor to find the plug caps that contain the brushes. I flipped the saw over and removed a plastic cover which protects the start up caps and then the rear plastic cover which protects the cooling fan…. I see nothing anywhere that resembles a brush cap. I am starting to think these were not designed to be easily accessible.

The motor is still in the table unit, so I think I looked as good as I could with out taking the motor out. So before I go any further, I figured I would see if I could get any more information.

If anyone can help in anyway, I would appreciated it. It is probably not going to happen, but I would love to find a motor diagram with part numbers.

I am interested in any experiences or opinions that anyone has time to share.

Thanks!

PS: I do have an email into Delta customer service.


39 replies so far

View MrUnix's profile (online now)

MrUnix

6757 posts in 2221 days


#1 posted 01-10-2018 07:54 PM

The 36-725 has an induction motor (capacitors should have tipped you off), so there are no brushes to change. What you describe sounds like a motor wired for 240v being run on 120v.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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jonah

1720 posts in 3320 days


#2 posted 01-10-2018 08:04 PM

My understanding (backed up by a quick google search) is that the 36-725 cannot run on 240V.

Most likely to least likely:

- The blade is dull
- The blade and fence are out of alignment
(some other stuff)
- The motor is damaged or burned out

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MrUnix

6757 posts in 2221 days


#3 posted 01-10-2018 08:09 PM

Actually, I seem to remember a few others with the same problem… turned out to be a loose or disconnected wire on one of the capacitors.

My understanding (backed up by a quick google search) is that the 36-725 cannot run on 240V

Check page 30 of the manual... under the section titled ”240 Volt Single Phase Operation” – where it says:

The 120/240 volt, dual-voltage motor supplied with your machine was shipped prepared for 120 volt operation. It can be converted for 240 volt operation.

There is no telling what a PO may have done, so it’s always best to verify first. Coming from a cabinet maker shop, running it on 240v is a distinct possibility.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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Runner

63 posts in 795 days


#4 posted 01-10-2018 08:53 PM

I’m running my 36-725 on 240V. It’s very easy to change from 120V. Flip the switch on the motor to 240, then change the plug.

-- Kjell - Eau Claire WI

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jonah

1720 posts in 3320 days


#5 posted 01-10-2018 09:11 PM

Strange, because the Delta website says 120V operation, and nothing at all about 240V.

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bearswamp

13 posts in 159 days


#6 posted 01-11-2018 12:14 AM

Brad/Jonah/Runner – First off thank you for helping.

Brad – Thanks for the info. I am happier that my ego took a slight dent rather than trying to find a non existent brush.

Anyway when you mentioned that it sounds like it was running off 240 and Runner mentioned there was a switch ... I thought “Bingo”. So I found the switch and expected to see it set on 240, but it is set on 115 (actually says 230 in the other direction).

I also found the thread you mentioned on the capacitor and checked the connections on mine. They all looked good.

So now I am left wondering if I have a weak capacitor. They looked like aluminum electrolytic caps (but I am not sure maybe film) and I did not see any indication of leaks.

One thing I did notice was I am getting a surge when I start the saw since the garage lights droop for an instant. I never noticed that with my other power tools ( miter saw, compressor, etc..). It also looks like the blade starts a little slow and then picks up steam ( I don’t think it is my imagination).

The blade looks good, but I think I going to take Jonah’s advice next and pick up another blade on Friday and try it.

Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!

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jonah

1720 posts in 3320 days


#7 posted 01-11-2018 02:13 AM

Is there a lot of other stuff on the same circuit? It could be starved of power. The dimming lights is a bit of a warning sign there.

View bigblockyeti's profile

bigblockyeti

5134 posts in 1742 days


#8 posted 01-11-2018 02:26 AM

It really does sound like a capacitor issue, get the numbers off both and order them from Amazon or a local motor shop, either will be far less expensive than ordering from Delta.

View alittleoff's profile

alittleoff

539 posts in 1298 days


#9 posted 01-11-2018 03:01 AM

If the lights are dimming it’s a good possibility you’ve got, or getting low voltage to the motor. That moter pulls quiet a lot starting up. Check your voltage with a good meter and make sure your getting 120 volts.. next check the circuit wire size, it needs to be wired with no. 12 copper wire. Also it should be on a circuit by itself. If something else is on the same circuit it will cause problems like you say your having. Also lights dimming, could also indicate a loose neutral. It could be at the transformer, meter, panel, or receptacle. The capacitor should really only help the motor to start. The other thing could be dull blade, and or feeding the wood through to fast. I can’t remember the hp on the saw, but it will slow down cutting wet or treated lumber, or the one I had would.
Gerald

View bearswamp's profile

bearswamp

13 posts in 159 days


#10 posted 01-11-2018 03:18 AM

Thanks guys. So I have a 50 amp sub panel in the garage and the saw was plugged into a circuit dedicated to 3 outlets in series with 12 awg Cu. There were no other items drawing from the circuit when I started it earlier. The droop is odd to me since I run a multipurpose welder from that sub panel on 220 albeit and never see that phenomenon. Also the lights are on a dedicated circuit. So it is a pretty good surge.

View Rayne's profile

Rayne

910 posts in 1561 days


#11 posted 01-11-2018 03:34 AM

Also check if you have a full kerf blade versus a thin kerf. You’ll get better results with thin kerf. Not sure if the motor can handle deep cuts with a full kerf blade; I can’t say for sure as I’ve never used one when I had mine.

View MrUnix's profile (online now)

MrUnix

6757 posts in 2221 days


#12 posted 01-11-2018 04:00 AM

It really does sound like a capacitor issue, get the numbers off both and order them from Amazon or a local motor shop, either will be far less expensive than ordering from Delta.
- bigblockyeti

The capacitor should really only help the motor to start.
- alittleoff

The capacitors are easy to test with a simple multimeter – even one of those free deals you get with a coupon from HF. No need to go buying stuff you don’t need :)

There are two capacitors… one is a start capacitor and the other a run capacitor. Both are used during startup, and one drops out after it’s up to speed. If the run capacitor is bad or not connected, the symptoms are similar to what you are seeing, so that is a possibility.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View Woodknack's profile

Woodknack

11763 posts in 2402 days


#13 posted 01-11-2018 04:21 AM

Eliminate the simple stuff first before replacing parts.
Using an extension cord? Try without.
Try a different outlet.
Check wire connections.
Lights dimming is a sign you are starving for power which will cause lack of power.

-- Rick M, http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

View bearswamp's profile

bearswamp

13 posts in 159 days


#14 posted 01-11-2018 02:25 PM

These suggestions should keep me busy. I also found this thread: http://lumberjocks.com/topics/202202

I am going to add the starter point cleaning to the list of possibilities. I should probably try to contact Marty on his procedure for doing this :). Still can’t send messages since I have not created enough posts.

View MinnesotaSteve's profile

MinnesotaSteve

49 posts in 913 days


#15 posted 01-11-2018 04:25 PM

This may not be related to your problem, but it doesn’t involve buying parts so it’s something to check.

I had a problem with my rockler dust collector where it would try to start and struggle, then after about 30 seconds it’d pop the internal breaker. I had to adjust the centrifugal switch as it wasn’t engaging properly.

I found a nice video from grizzly that showed how this is done…

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M-j6PhthXJY

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