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Method of securing table top to legs/base question

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Forum topic by BoilerUp21 posted 01-08-2018 12:41 PM 1137 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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BoilerUp21

73 posts in 730 days


01-08-2018 12:41 PM

I am working on a 4 person dining table and had planned to leave the legs (4 corners of each leg) about 1/2” long and cut matching shallow 1/2” mortises into the table top for them to seat into. I do not want to glue this so it can be taken apart easily, but I need to secure the top to the legs/apron.

Does anyone have suggestions on how to fasten this? I can always use pocket holes and secure the top to the apron, but I like the idea of not having any mechanical fasteners.

Thanks in advance for any advice!


8 replies so far

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ArtMann

931 posts in 779 days


#1 posted 01-08-2018 12:53 PM

I would be afraid that the friction fit would wear or get loose due to humidity changes and the table would get wobbly after a while. That is a clever idea and I would sure like to hear how it works out though.

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BoilerUp21

73 posts in 730 days


#2 posted 01-08-2018 01:09 PM

That is exactly my fear as well.


I would be afraid that the friction fit would wear or get loose due to humidity changes and the table would get wobbly after a while. That is a clever idea and I would sure like to hear how it works out though.

- ArtMann


View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

4680 posts in 2314 days


#3 posted 01-08-2018 01:28 PM

Use buttons, they are held in place with a screw and easily removable and also allow for wood movement.

-- Bondo Gaposis

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Reinan

77 posts in 183 days


#4 posted 01-08-2018 01:40 PM

I used a very similar leg to apron interface on a coffee table I built a month or two ago. The housed cross lap works well and makes for a very sturdy and nearly perfectly square base design.




If you are intending to be able to disassemble the base, I would think adding a pin on each end of the top apron would limit upward movement until you wanted to take it apart.

As to attaching to top to the base, I used shop made buttons out of walnut which were fit to the notches I cut into the inside of the apron with a rabbeting bit and a router. I don’t have a picture of the underside of the table but they are a simple and common attachment method.

-- -Russ

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BoilerUp21

73 posts in 730 days


#5 posted 01-08-2018 01:43 PM

Russ that looks great and nearly identical to the look/function I am trying to achieve. I agree that buttons are a good method.


I used a very similar leg to apron interface on a coffee table I built a month or two ago. The housed cross lap works well and makes for a very sturdy and nearly perfectly square base design.



!https://s3.amazonaws.com/vs-lumberjocks.com/p28og5w.jpg!

If you are intending to be able to disassemble the base, I would think adding a pin on each end of the top apron would limit upward movement until you wanted to take it apart.

As to attaching to top to the base, I used shop made buttons out of walnut which were fit to the notches I cut into the inside of the apron with a rabbeting bit and a router. I don’t have a picture of the underside of the table but they are a simple and common attachment method.

- Reinan


View Rick  Dennington's profile

Rick Dennington

5802 posts in 3157 days


#6 posted 01-08-2018 04:02 PM

When I build a table, I use mortise and tenon joinery to secure the aprons to the legs (short and long aprons).....Then after the top is built and ready to assemble to the base, I use “figure 8 ” fasteners…

-- " At my age, happy hour is a crap and a nap".....

View bandit571's profile

bandit571

19713 posts in 2646 days


#7 posted 01-08-2018 04:07 PM

Hmmm

Corner blocks?

Glued and screwed to the aprons. Slotted hole for a screw into the top.

The usual way I attach a top to a table’s base….

This one needed a kicker for a drawer..

Hmmm..

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View Woodknack's profile

Woodknack

11475 posts in 2343 days


#8 posted 01-08-2018 07:21 PM

I’ve seen those cross lapped table joints on smaller tables, consoles, coffee tables, etc.; It would be interesting to know how well it works on a dining table after 10 years or so.

-- Rick M, http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

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