Super Durable finish for Low Back Dining chair

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Forum topic by yellowtruck75 posted 03-18-2011 06:18 PM 1498 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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469 posts in 3061 days

03-18-2011 06:18 PM

Topic tags/keywords: finishing cherry

I am going to start building two of Charles Brock’s Low Back Dining chairs for my office. I work in a food manufacturing plant so I need a real durable finish that will hold up to employees sitting in them. No one will be overly dirty but I want to have a finish that will hold up scratches from keys and belt radios and be cleanable. Currently on my chairs I use the premixed Maloof finish, will this finish hold up to possible scratches? If the chair does get scratched how hard is it to sand out and refinish without ruining the look?

I am going to use Cherry as the wood.


5 replies so far

View fussy's profile


980 posts in 3045 days

#1 posted 03-18-2011 10:25 PM

The Maloof finish is not that durable, but is super easy to repair; just sand it out and re-coat. Polyurethane will stand more abuse—a lazy susan I built over 35 years ago has sat on our kitchen table and caught everything from car keys to screwdrivers and ratchets and still looks new—but is very hard to repair. It’s really 6 of one and half dozen of the other. I would opt for poly. It will give you more time looking good before you need to repair it.


-- Steve in KY. 44 years so far with my lovely bride. Think I'll keep her.

View Glen Peterson's profile

Glen Peterson

556 posts in 3050 days

#2 posted 03-18-2011 11:47 PM

I always use Waterlox Original. I’m not real sure of its durability, but check out the article in the most recent FW.

-- Glen

View Aaron Taylor's profile

Aaron Taylor

37 posts in 3143 days

#3 posted 03-19-2011 04:08 PM

You should try Epifanes Marine Spar Varnish. It is nearly bullet proof. I used it on some window sills that had constant attention from dogs that decided to look out the windows every time someone would walk by outside. There are six dogs, and it is a fairly busy street right by a golf course, so you can imagine the amount of “traffic” those sill get. A month after I installed them there wasn’t a scratch one on them. Impressive in my opinion.
For the first 3 coats I used a mixture of the gloss epifanes, boiled linseed oil, and naphtha solvent; I then put two more coats of just epifanes matte wood finish and naphtha solvent over the top. I let these cure for about a month – read didn’t get them installed until then, and they are really nice to look at.
I got the epifanes from Jamestown distributors, epifanes is really expensive, but if you want a truly durable finish I haven’t found anything to beat it. There is a sale going on right now too, and if you keep your eye out here on LJ’s they advertize free shipping codes sometimes as well.

Best of Luck,


-- "Insanity runs in my family. It practically gallops."--Cary Grant from the movie Arsenic and Old Lace

View Nollie's profile


146 posts in 2780 days

#4 posted 03-19-2011 05:13 PM

I would suggest Rustin’s Danish oil. It is a durable indoor and outdoor finish. It gives a lovely mat to velvet finish if wiped on with a soft cloth. I do wipe on in stead of brush on – you safe on product

-- Leon .

View Steven H's profile

Steven H

1117 posts in 3054 days

#5 posted 03-19-2011 09:40 PM

I would just use oil base varnish.

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