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Forum topic by Jack3 posted 01-02-2018 04:43 AM 325 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Jack3

8 posts in 52 days


01-02-2018 04:43 AM

Topic tags/keywords: unisaw

Hello folks

I have a Delta unisaw 3hp single phase that i am currently restoring/ repairing. The wiring is pretty much all shot…dry rotted and dangerous so i am replacing it all. I have all the wire i need to get it up and running except the wire that leads from the LVC to the switch. It has 4 conductors but i do not know what size it is because its so dry rotted.

Wonder inf anyone on here that has this saw with LVC could tell me what size wire it is i need?

Thanks in advance


14 replies so far

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

6363 posts in 2106 days


#1 posted 01-02-2018 04:59 AM

It’s low voltage (24v), so you don’t need anything special.. I’ve even seen people use HVAC thermostat wire, but any good 16 or 18 gauge wire will be just fine.

Also, are you sure it has 4 wires? Should only need three to the control station (on/off momentary switches) – unless you have something different.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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Jack3

8 posts in 52 days


#2 posted 01-03-2018 12:53 AM

Yes I am sure it’s 4 wire…I’ll attach some pictures.
Left wire to motor
Center wire to 240v power
Right wire to switch

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MrUnix

6363 posts in 2106 days


#3 posted 01-03-2018 01:02 AM

Yes I am sure it’s 4 wire…I’ll attach some pictures.
Left wire to motor
Center wire to 240v power
Right wire to switch
- Jack3

I don’t know what you are looking at, but it’s three wires to the control station, marked in the photo below. Motor hooks up to T1 (from heater) and T2. Supply voltage hooks up to L1 and L2. Control station hooks to terminals 1,2 and 3 circled in the picture (black, white and red wires).

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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Jack3

8 posts in 52 days


#4 posted 01-03-2018 01:04 AM

Hard to see in that picture but it was grounded. I’m realizing now it’s orobsbly because the switch is in a metal box??

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Jack3

8 posts in 52 days


#5 posted 01-03-2018 01:06 AM

This is the wiring I just removed that came from the switch

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MrUnix

6363 posts in 2106 days


#6 posted 01-03-2018 01:14 AM

Yup – three wires + ground. Depending on the switch enclosure, the ground may not be needed. Of course, it doesn’t hurt to have one anyway though :)

Wiring at the control station should look something like this:

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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Jack3

8 posts in 52 days


#7 posted 01-03-2018 01:14 AM

Thank you for your help!

View Fresch's profile

Fresch

140 posts in 1828 days


#8 posted 01-03-2018 03:08 AM



It s low voltage (24v), so you don t need anything special.. I ve even seen people use HVAC thermostat wire, but any good 16 or 18 gauge wire will be just fine.

Also, are you sure it has 4 wires? Should only need three to the control station (on/off momentary switches) – unless you have something different.

Cheers,
Brad

- MrUnix

Haha almost like the other wiring diagram from that other post, we couldn’t get clear pictures of! ;)

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Jack3

8 posts in 52 days


#9 posted 01-03-2018 07:09 PM

One more question…what’s this??

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MrUnix

6363 posts in 2106 days


#10 posted 01-03-2018 07:16 PM

One more question…what’s this??
- Jack3

A wire that should be removed and thrown in the trash. Looks like they maybe were powering something else coming off the overload, but then capped and taped it up. Doesn’t do anything and is not needed.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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Jack3

8 posts in 52 days


#11 posted 01-03-2018 07:19 PM

Thanks Brad

Do you know where I can get a Replacement overload?? Went to remove the wife and the whole thing crumbled apart.

Just when I thought I was close to having it up and running!!

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MrUnix

6363 posts in 2106 days


#12 posted 01-03-2018 07:36 PM

The whole assembly or just the heater element? Might be a bit of a search to find an exact replacement, but you could substitute an appropriate sized one. Give a local electric supply house a call and tell them what you need – if they can’t help, I’m sure they could give you some pointers on where to look. I don’t know what motor you have on there, but it if has a built in overload, then you could just bypass that one. Heck, you can bypass it anyway just to get you up and running and it will be fine as long as you don’t push the machine too hard. At least that will let you use it while you search for a replacement.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View Kazooman's profile

Kazooman

938 posts in 1860 days


#13 posted 01-03-2018 09:16 PM

Great typo. I got a good laugh out of “went to remove the wife” and then Brad telling you “at least that will let you use it while you search for a replacement”.

The insulation on those wires is amazing. It is a good thing you are replacing them.

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Jack3

8 posts in 52 days


#14 posted 01-04-2018 02:59 PM

Haha I didn’t even notice my typo!

Yea the insulation was absolutely shot. Here’s a picture of the wire from the switch to the LVC

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