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Craftsman 113 - What HP motor did you upgrade to?

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Forum topic by B4B posted 01-01-2018 05:37 AM 593 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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B4B

162 posts in 1474 days


01-01-2018 05:37 AM

I’d love to get a new saw, but it’s just not in the cards. To eek out a little more from my cman 113 10” TS, I’m considering a new motor. I am already using a thin kerf blade (rip and crosscut), a link belt, replaced bearings, and machined pulleys. I could try a 8” blade to see if there is a difference.

I’d like to hear from anyone who has replaced the stock motor with a more powerful motor. Anyone using a 1.5, 2 or even 3 hp motor? Any drawbacks?

I did weigh the 1hp craftsman branded motor and it came in at 24 lbs, including the motor mount.some of the 1hp motors I’ve seen new seem to weigh in at 30 lbs or more.

If you upgraded you cman 113 TS motor what HP did you use (what brand/model if you know offhand?) Is the weight of the motor warping the table at all? Is the motor getting in the way of 45 degree cuts? Other observations?

-- There's two routers in my vocab, one that moves data and one that removes wood, the latter being more relevant on this forum.


10 replies so far

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

6884 posts in 2315 days


#1 posted 01-01-2018 05:47 AM

I’m guessing that it’s a contractor type saw (emerson made several different flavors of saws)? If so, I wouldn’t put more than a 1.5hp motor on there… maybe 2hp max. The recommended motor size is 1hp and it’s not designed for anything much larger. It’s not so much weight as it is the stress it puts on the machine, which is not designed to handle larger HP motors. Nothing worse than having something break loose in the middle of an operation and throwing shrapnel around the shop.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

8120 posts in 3492 days


#2 posted 01-01-2018 01:32 PM

I’m 100% in agreement with Brad about the size limits.

It’d be a lot cheaper and simpler to try a decent 24T thin kerf blade instead of a combo or general purpose blade, which are typically 40T to 50T….Diablo, Marples, CMT ITK Plus, DW Precision Trim, etc….all near $30. A smaller diameter blade will increase the torque a bit, but will also limit your capacity….be sure the new blade isn’t narrower than the splitter.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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ArtMann

1041 posts in 932 days


#3 posted 01-01-2018 03:04 PM

The OP may already be doing that. If not, a dedicated 24 tooth rip blade is almost essential. I used a saw similar to his for about 20 years.

I am already using a thin kerf blade (rip and crosscut), a link belt, replaced bearings, and machined pulleys. I could try a 8” blade to see if there is a difference.

- B4B


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B4B

162 posts in 1474 days


#4 posted 01-01-2018 04:51 PM

Yes, I have discrete ripping and crosscutting blades, both thin kerf. Only thing I have not tried is to use a smaller 8” blade to eek out performance.

Last thing I want is my table saw to spew shrapnel, I know I’m not the only person considering this as there are many threads asking can I, which is why I’m asking, have you?

-- There's two routers in my vocab, one that moves data and one that removes wood, the latter being more relevant on this forum.

View ralbuck's profile

ralbuck

5001 posts in 2382 days


#5 posted 01-01-2018 06:18 PM

Many people forget that the electric machines performance can be terribly reduced by extension cords of too small of wires. Smaller gauge #’s are actually better for heavier loads. Example a 3 wire 8 gauge will carry a heavy load while a 3 wire 18 gauge is almost worthless in the shop; except for lights.

-- Wood rescue is good for the environment and me! just rjR

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Woodknack

12329 posts in 2496 days


#6 posted 01-02-2018 09:03 AM

Also check the power cord connections and try replacing any extension cords. My saw was losing power and it turned out the connections inside the outlet had come loose. All I had to do was turn off the breaker and tighten some screws. I think those old motors required oiling, might check that. But yeah, 1hp is going to struggle at times. I’ve read about people upgrading the motors but I’ve never owned a 113 so can’t say first hand if it’s tricky, although I doubt it.

-- Rick M, http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

View oldnovice's profile

oldnovice

7115 posts in 3484 days


#7 posted 01-02-2018 10:36 PM

I think I have the same saw!
I have the original motor but I upgraded the belt, pulleys, power cord, and blade:
  • link belt, reduced vibration
  • turned pulleys, reduced vibration and noise
  • #10 power cord with suitable heavy duty plug
  • Forrest 10” WWII blade

I cut a lot of 100 year old red oak and have no problem with lack of power!

When I need to make very deep cuts, over 1-1/4” deep, I switch to a 24 tooth Oldham blade for two reasons, reduce the amount of teeth in thee wood (drag) and in case I hit some hardware as this blade was cheap, still sharp, and very old.

-- "I never met a board I didn't like!"

View bandit571's profile (online now)

bandit571

21036 posts in 2799 days


#8 posted 01-03-2018 12:45 AM

The 113 I used to have….was upgraded to a 2hp motor. Had dual belt pulleys…

Sold it a few years ago..

Still ran fine….

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

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oldnovice

7115 posts in 3484 days


#9 posted 01-03-2018 04:40 AM

Bandit571, that’s pretty close to what I have!
Bought mine in ~1974 for about $250 including stand, 3 cast aluminum wings, and 4 Craftsman saw blades.
Mine did not have a cog belt.

-- "I never met a board I didn't like!"

View bandit571's profile (online now)

bandit571

21036 posts in 2799 days


#10 posted 01-03-2018 04:54 AM

That one was $400, new. Two steel wings. Had the OEM replaced on Sears’ dime. Trunnion split about the 10 year mark. “New” trunion, motor and two more steel wings came from a “parts” saw a place I worked for was junking out..for $25… As far as i know, it is still running good.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

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