LumberJocks

Bought a 22" wooden plane, got a couple questions

  • Advertise with us

« back to Hand Tools forum

Forum topic by JohnMcClure posted 01-01-2018 03:09 AM 1718 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View JohnMcClure's profile

JohnMcClure

147 posts in 543 days


01-01-2018 03:09 AM

Topic tags/keywords: plane antique wooden plane

I bought this wooden-body plane at an antique store. The chipbreaker and iron are in a vinegar bath now and I’m thinking about how to proceed to make this a user. I’m new to this and have a few questions if any of you have the patience for it:

The body is 22” long. Does that make this a jack, smoother, jointer, or what kind of plane? Or does that depend on its set-up and use?

The iron has a stamp which is not entirely legible but it was clearly stamped TWICE – the stamp shifted down by about 1/8” between strikes. It reads ”——-NT & CO U.S. WARRANTED CAST STEEL”. Would that be “Sargent &Co”? Is there a way for me to date this plane, or determine if there’s any particular collector value to it?

I notice there is no knob, but a little button of sorts where one would be. Is that typical? Broken off and rounded down, or what?

Other than rust removal and sharpening, I plan to scrape or sand the body, flatten the bottom if necessary, and get to using it. Anything else I should be thinking about or doing to it?

-- I'd rather be a hammer than a nail


12 replies so far

View JayT's profile

JayT

5521 posts in 2113 days


#1 posted 01-01-2018 03:49 AM

22” for a wooden plane is likely a fore or jointer, depending on how you set it up. A bit long for a jack. Not sure on the iron, there were quite a few makers. Extremely unlikely it has any collector value.

Most wooden planes do not have knobs. The rounded part up front is a strike button. You tap the iron with a plane hammer to extend it and take a deeper cut. The strike button is tapped while holding the plane in the other hand to retract the iron slightly or struck harder to loosen the iron and wedge. It works on inertia and using the strike button saves the body of the plane from getting too banged up from the hammer.

-- In matters of style, swim with the current; in matters of principle, stand like a rock. Thomas Jefferson

View Don W's profile

Don W

18603 posts in 2470 days


#2 posted 01-01-2018 01:10 PM

The blade could be marked Sargent. They did sell wood planes. They did not make them however. Most were actually made by Sandusky.

If it’s a Sargent plane it will have a marketing on the toe. If it’s just a Sargent blade with no Mark, you may never know.

-- http://timetestedtools.net - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

View JohnMcClure's profile

JohnMcClure

147 posts in 543 days


#3 posted 01-02-2018 01:03 AM

Thank you both, that was very helpful. Don, the toe does have a Sargent stamp. Below the stamp appears to be the number 17, or possibly G17. There may have been more there at one time – it’s hard to make out.
Any idea what model number or category this 22” plane may be? or way to estimate production date? Just so I know what I have.

-- I'd rather be a hammer than a nail

View Don W's profile

Don W

18603 posts in 2470 days


#4 posted 01-02-2018 02:01 AM

I haven’t looked into the wood bodies planes sold by Sargent very deeply, but here is what I have in my book. It may help you find something.

-- http://timetestedtools.net - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

View corelz125's profile

corelz125

331 posts in 878 days


#5 posted 01-02-2018 02:25 AM

To get clean off the grit and grime steel wool and denatured alcohol work pretty good.

View JohnMcClure's profile

JohnMcClure

147 posts in 543 days


#6 posted 01-02-2018 11:58 PM

Thanks. Don, thanks for that page – the stamp on the iron and toe of the plane are exactly like the ones in that photo. I can reasonably infer that my plane was produced between 1871 and 1922, which is better than knowing nothing!

-- I'd rather be a hammer than a nail

View socrbent's profile

socrbent

589 posts in 2172 days


#7 posted 01-03-2018 04:31 AM

Amazing – Your plane looks much like 2 Ohio Tool Co. planes I have. See the photos in these blog posts – http://lumberjocks.com/socrbent/blog/30793 and http://lumberjocks.com/socrbent/blog/30684

Coincidentally I was finally starting making new totes and a wedge for them today.

-- socrbent Ohio

View Ron Aylor's profile

Ron Aylor

2125 posts in 550 days


#8 posted 01-03-2018 12:07 PM



Other than rust removal and sharpening, I plan to scrape or sand the body, flatten the bottom if necessary, and get to using it. Anything else I should be thinking about or doing to it?

- JohnMcClure

John, I would definitely spend the time to flatten the bottom via whatever means necessary. As to the remainder of the plane I would simply use a plane polish to clean it up, leaving the patina. The polish I use is one part boiled linseed oil, one part Murphy’s Oil Soap, and two parts bees wax. Just rub this concoction all over and it will remove the dirt and grime. I use this on my planes every couple of months.

Bees wax = bees wax candle, grated, mixed with turpentine to soften to the consistency of room temperature butter.

-- Ron in Lilburn, Georgia.  Knowing how to use a tool is more important than the tool in and of itself.

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

7747 posts in 2816 days


#9 posted 01-03-2018 01:18 PM




Other than rust removal and sharpening, I plan to scrape or sand the body, flatten the bottom if necessary, and get to using it. Anything else I should be thinking about or doing to it?
- JohnMcClure

John, I would definitely spend the time to flatten the bottom via whatever means necessary. As to the remainder of the plane I would simply use a plane polish to clean it up, leaving the patina. The polish I use is one part boiled linseed oil, one part Murphy s Oil Soap, and two parts bees wax. Just rub this concoction all over and it will remove the dirt and grime. I use this on my planes every couple of months.
Bees wax = bees wax candle, grated, mixed with turpentine to soften to the consistency of room temperature butter.
- Ron Aylor

I flattened my wooden plane on the jointer, working against the twist I had. Be careful to take minimal cuts and measure the mouth opening after every pass, seriously. If you absolutely have to, you could probably shim the rear of the plane’s mouth with very thin veneer. Doing that, however, could possibly make the wedge more difficult to use. Bottom line, go as slow as you can while flattening… Good luck!

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View Ron Aylor's profile

Ron Aylor

2125 posts in 550 days


#10 posted 01-03-2018 01:33 PM


I flattened my wooden plane on the jointer, working against the twist I had. Be careful to take minimal cuts and measure the mouth opening after every pass, seriously.

- HorizontalMike

If you get too carried away … you might have to patch it as I had to on this coffin smoother.
 

-- Ron in Lilburn, Georgia.  Knowing how to use a tool is more important than the tool in and of itself.

View JohnMcClure's profile

JohnMcClure

147 posts in 543 days


#11 posted 01-03-2018 02:14 PM

Thanks all for the tips! Ron, I hadn’t thought about preserving the 100-year-old patina, but you’re right – I’ll try your concoction.
Not having a jointer, I’ll probably glue sandpaper to a flat piece of plywood and rub vigorously… pencil marks to show any low spots… unless y’all say otherwise.

-- I'd rather be a hammer than a nail

View Ron Aylor's profile

Ron Aylor

2125 posts in 550 days


#12 posted 01-04-2018 12:16 AM



Thanks all for the tips! Ron, I hadn t thought about preserving the 100-year-old patina, but you re right – I ll try your concoction.
Not having a jointer, I ll probably glue sandpaper to a flat piece of plywood and rub vigorously… pencil marks to show any low spots… unless y all say otherwise.

- JohnMcClure

John, I think the sandpaper to a flat surface sounds like the way to go … just keep an eye on the mouth! Good luck and have fun! Of course, you will have to show more photos when you are done!

-- Ron in Lilburn, Georgia.  Knowing how to use a tool is more important than the tool in and of itself.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com