Table saw setup-G0715P

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Forum topic by hightower posted 03-15-2011 12:36 AM 2527 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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14 posts in 2933 days

03-15-2011 12:36 AM

Topic tags/keywords: trick question tablesaw

Hey everyone,

So I finally pulled the trigger on the Grizzly G0715P. I have terrible buyers remorse and have been battling with the idea of a new purchase for months. My wife finally got sick of me talking about it and threatened that she would order it herself! My guess is she already has a first project in mind.

I am looking for advice on new table saw setup. This will be my first time setting up a boxed tool and therefore may overlook some things. Up until this point I have been using a simple job site skil TS.

First, what is the best way to remove the storage grease that is covering the cast iron? Will I need to apply any grease to the bearings or will the factory have done that already? Any suggestions on coating for the cast iron, I purchased some “Slipit” that will arrive with the saw but am open to other ides. Is johnson paste wax another preferred product?

As for aligning the blade to the miter slot, I am planning on simply using a combination square along with a caliper for measurement. Other ideas?

Lastly, I am planning on purchasing a good thin kerf blade and it seems people either fall into the Frued or Forrest categories. Any suggestion there on a good combination blade?

Thanks for any advice/help. I can’t wait to start playing with this thing!

11 replies so far

View knotscott's profile


8186 posts in 3617 days

#1 posted 03-15-2011 12:42 AM

Congrats on the new saw. Mineral spirits has worked well for me in the past to remove the cosmoline from the cast iron surfaces. The gears should be lubed but check them… I’d use white lithium spray if not. I like to put a light coat of Boeshield T-9 on the cast iron and buff it dry, then add a coat or two of paste wax.

Take your time with the alignment and get it as close to perfect as possible. Perfect is best, but its better for any deviation to be with tail of the blade farther than the fence to prevent binding. Generally within 0.003” is acceptable.

Freud and Forrest have some nice blades but I’d definitely add Infinity, CMT, and Ridge Carbide to your list of possible blades. Tips for choosing a saw blade

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View gillyd's profile


136 posts in 2888 days

#2 posted 03-15-2011 01:09 AM

I just got my G0715P last week (will be posting a newbies point of view review soon).

I used Mineral Spirits, and then Johnsons Wax. Also make sure you have White Lithium grease, because it will ask you to add it to the gears and mounting on the trunnion.

As you will soon read in my review, I will highly suggest you have a rubber mallet to help install the Cast Iron wings (what I did was held the wings slightly above the table screwed in, tightened the screws, then used the combination square and tapped with my rubber mallet down until they were square) It took me 3 hours to align them with the table, I even had to Shim one of the wings. I will post more details in my review in the next few days.

Also, I know it tells you in the manual to install the motor cover before the wings, but I wouldn’t do that, you just end up taking it off.

View gfadvm's profile


14940 posts in 2932 days

#3 posted 03-15-2011 05:29 AM

I got the same saw three weeks ago.The instructions were really thorough and things went together perfectly with no shimming or tweaking needed.Put your mineral spirits in a spray bottle to clean the trunion races and gears under the table top.The only issue I had was the brass set screws on the top of the fence T stood 1/16 above the table surface.This had to be fixed. After much deliberation, I used a sanding sleeve on my Dremel and ground them off to just below the table surface.I have used it daily since then and am really happy with it.If you have any probs dont hesitate to call Grizzlys tech number as they are very helpful and polite.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View hightower's profile


14 posts in 2933 days

#4 posted 03-15-2011 07:06 PM

Thanks for all the info guys, I appreciate it.

Any opinions on this blade:

The price seems good it will be a nice addition for my new toy. I am not quite ready to spend $100 or so on a new blade, need to pay off the saw first!

View hightower's profile


14 posts in 2933 days

#5 posted 03-15-2011 07:08 PM

Or this one:

View knotscott's profile


8186 posts in 3617 days

#6 posted 03-15-2011 08:38 PM

I’ve used the LU86 and thought it was a nice blade for the money…IIRC, it was ~ $35 when I bought it. $42 shipped seems reasonable. It’s actually similar in geometry to the Freud Diablo D1040 but has larger carbide. I have not tried that particular CMT blade, so I’d lean toward the LU86 partly because I’m more familiar with it, and partly because its from Freud’s Industrial line. The CMT ITK is a good line but their CMT Orange series is a step up and is more on par with Freud’s Industrial series. Plus Freuds customer service is top notch and has a strong presense in the US…I have tried serveral CMT blades that were good but I’m less comfortable with CMT’s service.

If you’d prefer to pick something up locally, you could always take a look at the Ridgid Titanium R1050C at HD for ~ $40 (made by Freud), or the CMT ITK Plus P10050 from Lowes for ~ $40. Lowes also has the DeWalt DW7140PT for ~ $31 that should cut pretty comparably to the others mentioned. All good examples in this price range.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View brtech's profile


1054 posts in 3164 days

#7 posted 03-15-2011 09:52 PM

For aligning, you might want to pick up a Mag-Dro miter slot base for your caliper.

View chrisstef's profile


17803 posts in 3248 days

#8 posted 03-15-2011 10:27 PM

To throw out a comment on the blades … i just bought the CMT P10050. I have only run a small load of cypress through it but its a fairly quiet blade, plenty sharp, but it doesnt leave what i would call a glueable surface, there are definately some mill marks left (all though that could be my tablesaws fault).

-- Its not a crack, its a casting imperfection.

View hightower's profile


14 posts in 2933 days

#9 posted 03-15-2011 11:57 PM

My local HD has that Ridgid R1050C blade, might have to go pick that up. Seems like a good economical blade with the thin kerf I am looking for. Thanks for the tip Knotscott.

I am trying to figure out a relatively non expensive dust collection solution for the 4” port. At this point all I have is a shop vac and don’t plan on buying a bigger dust collector anytime soon. That said, what are some good ways to collect the dust on this saw? Has anyone made that Paul Thien cyclone?

View knotscott's profile


8186 posts in 3617 days

#10 posted 03-16-2011 12:58 AM

A shop vac by itself will fill up with dust fast and the filter will clog pretty quickly. Hooking it inline with something like a trash can separator is pretty simple and should be more effective.

Here’s a project on this website from Ralphie9:

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View hightower's profile


14 posts in 2933 days

#11 posted 03-18-2011 05:27 PM

Well the saw has arrived and at first glance, everything looks good. I have started cleaning the surface of the cast iron and trunnion gears. I have been using mineral oil and shop paper towels. Seems to work pretty well, there really wasn’t a very thick layer of cosmoline. This is my first real experience with cast iron which has led to a question. I have removed what I believe is all of the rust preventative and everything looks very nice. But at closer inspection, there are very faint brown spots, almost look like faint stains. If I rub vigorously with my finger, I can get some of it up. So is this normal? If standing up and looking at the saw, you can’t see it, only when close up and with the light right. Am I being too critical? Is this rust down in the pores or what? I don’t mind the look of it, just curious if it will cause problems down the road if I put wax over it. Should I be using something other than paper towels?

Lastly, I have noticed in pictures from postings and even in the manual photos, two holes drilled in the top of the cast iron at the front end of the table insert. One on each side. My table top doesn’t have these holes. Cause for concern or a design change? What are these for?

Thanks everyone.

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