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Cabinet Door Size Question

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Forum topic by lew posted 1229 days ago 1954 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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lew

9945 posts in 2354 days


1229 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: question door sizes

I am building a roll around island for Mimi. It is going to have one or two full extension pull out shelves. I want to use two partial inset (partial overlay) doors with no center stile. I have built this type of cabinet before, with limited success- a lot of trial and error design and fitting.

Is there a rule-of-thumb for dimensioning this type of door if the opening size is known? I am using partial wrap inset hinges for a 3/8×3/8 rabbet and no over lay where the doors meet in the center.

Thanks for any suggestions.

Lew

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.


4 replies so far

View Ollie's profile

Ollie

146 posts in 1873 days


#1 posted 1229 days ago

Depends on the hinges mainly.
I use Blum concealed hinges ( sometimes called Euro hinges) with the soft close mechanism. If using these , I usually drill the hole for the cup 6mm from the edge of the door to give overlay of 9mm on the hinge side. you can adjust overlay by drilling the cup hole closer or further away from the doors edge.
There is a very usefull fitting guide on the Blum website (can`t find link right now). There is also quite a lot of adjustment in all directions on the hinge plate that screws to the cupboard part.

This link might help
http://www.woodworkweb.com/woodwork-topics/wood-fasteners-and-glues/111-guide-to-choosing-a-concealed-hinge.html

good luck

-- Ollie, UK.

View Kent Shepherd's profile

Kent Shepherd

2697 posts in 1885 days


#2 posted 1229 days ago

Lew, On a 3/8” lipped door, I usually size double doors about 3/8” to 7/16” over the opening size.
That gives you room for the hinges with clearance between the 2 doors. Start with the 7/16”, you can always shave a little off in the middle. I leave mine squared off between doors.

I would also move the drawers in a bit from the side stiles so the pull-outs will clear the doors. (I’ve made that mistake before)

-- She thought I hung the moon--now she just thinks I did it wrong

View lew's profile

lew

9945 posts in 2354 days


#3 posted 1229 days ago

Thanks for the help!

Kent, I think I’m just going to make a small frame around the shelves and just use them as a grab point but I still must remember to inset them enough to clear the doors, when closed! I’ll start with the 7/16” and work from there.

Ollie, I haven’t tried the concealed hinges yet. Mimi wanted these hinges to match the hardware on the existing cabinets but I appreciate the link. I really like the adjustment features of those hinges. It looks like they would really help improve on my lack of accuracy.

Lew

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

View joek30296's profile

joek30296

32 posts in 1465 days


#4 posted 1228 days ago

Lew,
My method for doing what you’re asking, if you’re using plywood or whatever, is to add 1/2” to each opening dimension. Then go ahead and lip 3/8” X 3/8” on all 4 sides. After I lip the 4 sides, I usually lay the panel flat on my table saw and cut about 2 degrees off the lip to make sure doors don’t drag on the top or bottom. Rip it down the middle and that you gives you the clearances you need with no center stile. Hope this helps.
Just my 2 cents.
joe

-- "There are two theories to arguing with a woman....neither of them work"

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