|Forum topic by Millo||posted 03-14-2011 02:23 AM||2230 views||0 times favorited||1 reply|
03-14-2011 02:23 AM
I am planning to make (at some point in time, be it now, in a month, or in 4-5 months) a wall-hanging mail organizer. It will have a back and two sides, with (possibly floating, secured in angled grooves on the inside faces of the organizer’s sides) slant tray-fronts. The sides will be walnut, and I got some scrap pieces of walnut plywood that might work for the back, or maybe I can make a solid walnut back (which I’d rather not do). My main two questions are regarding joining the back to sides and hanging/attaching it on/to the wall.
In my ignorance I wanted to ask you what would be the best way to join this back to the sides. I am considering these options:
-I thought biscuits would be too weak, since it’s not a box and there is no other board or frame holding the thing together)
-Long-grain to long-grain dovetails (solid-wood back option)... I just read a thread in which a few mentioned it wasn’t such a good idea.
-Rabbetting the solid-wood sides slightly (if the plywood is the one rabbetted then it would show on the side), gluing, and once glue is dry drilling holes for solid-wood dowels (the tray fronts are going to be made of maple).
-I have never made loose tenons but thought I’d pass since it would seem more difficult than the biscuit or dowel options, and because I will already have a bit of a hard time figuring out how to route the angled slots for the trays in a consistent way…
At first I thought of using a router table w/ a t-track and miter gauge but their miter gauges are all table-saw ones that go up to 60 degrees, and I don’t remember if they have a router table with t-track at the shop. I think I’l make a jig that will serve as a guide and and do it with a plunge router.
Regarding wall hanging: I wanted to have the back and sides flush on the back to maximize the usable depth of the sides, for which I already have selected among the scrap walnut I had, because of this I’m not sure a french cleat system would be attractive.
-making key holes on the sides (which I hope will be AT LEAST 3/4” thick).
-using eye hooks screwed on either the back or sides.
Excuse my ridiculous ignorance—any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.