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Forum topic by Sawdust2 posted 2316 days ago 679 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Sawdust2

1467 posts in 2672 days


2316 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: wide belt sanders glue lines sander

Just returned from a friends house where I was sanding a glued up board about 30” wide and 3 foot long.

I don’t think it makes a difference but the wood was European beech and the glue was Titebond II.

We had wiped the board gown while the glue was fresh. I had scraped off a bunch of the glue that had fried this morning. When I got to his shop this afternoon we scraped off all the glue that we could get to. We just could not get all the glue right where the boards joined and the wood was not just flat. (Of course, if it was flat I wouldn’t have had to use his wide belt sander.)

After a few passes we noticed that the glue was adhering to the belt so I took one of the gum erasers and tried to get the glue off. And was successful to some extent, but not enough. We continued and moved the board to different spots and to different angles and we finally were satisfied with the thickness of the wood. But there were lots of ridges on the board that we will have to take off with a RO sander.

This is not the first time this has happened so I guess it will not be the last, especially as it seems that even the thin layer of glue left when you wipe the board down will also clog the belt. We’ve had the same problem with poplar, cherry and oak, too.

Just an observation. If someone has a solution it sure would be appreciated Those sanding belts are not inexpensive.
Lee

-- No piece is cut too short. It was meant for a smaller project.


6 replies so far

View tenontim's profile

tenontim

2131 posts in 2329 days


#1 posted 2316 days ago

sawdust, if you let the glue set about 30 minutes, so that it “skins over” and gets rubbery, you can just peel it off with a scraper. Removing the glue this way will also prevent you from rubbing the glue into the pores and grain of the wood. If all else fells and you wind up with a film of glue on the wood, acetone will soften and remove titebond II. Just don’t saturate the joint with it.

-- Tim

View Nicky's profile

Nicky

636 posts in 2676 days


#2 posted 2315 days ago

I do agree with Tenontim. Easiest to remove the glue when fresh.

I would think that the sanding drum gets warm (hot?) and is making the glue somewhat gummy and clogging your belts. I bought one a few months back, and have learned to make very shallow passes. I also clean my glue lines prior to sanding. The bulk of the glue is removed after about 30mins, but after a few hours I use a scraper.

-- Nicky

View Suz's profile

Suz

51 posts in 2341 days


#3 posted 2315 days ago

Time to grab the cabinet scraper or the hand scraper to get rid of the glue line! Don’t underestimate the power and finish of a good scraper. I’ve got a heavy duty one that I only use to scrape glue joints.
After you have removed all the excess glue take the board to your sander. Works every time!

-- Jim

View Sawdust2's profile

Sawdust2

1467 posts in 2672 days


#4 posted 2315 days ago

Right. The operative words are “all the glue” LOL

Lee

-- No piece is cut too short. It was meant for a smaller project.

View Bob #2's profile

Bob #2

3808 posts in 2606 days


#5 posted 2315 days ago

Something you might try is getting hold of some zinc stearate powder and lightly dusting the drun(sandpaper) with this stuff prior to your first few passes.
Manufacturers also sell stearated sandpaper that helps thing to not stick to the backing.
Check your buddy to see which one he is using.

p.s. slower and lighter is better if you can.

Cheers
Bob

-- A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner

View GaryK's profile

GaryK

10262 posts in 2573 days


#6 posted 2314 days ago

That’s strange. I use the same glue. I let it dry hard and then use a scraper to remove the the dried glue.

I am using drum sander though, and never had that problem.

-- Gary - Never pass up the opportunity to make a mistake look like you planned it that way - Tyler, TX

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