Wide belt sandders and glue

sawdust, if you let the glue set about 30 minutes, so that it “skins over” and gets rubbery, you can just peel it off with a scraper. Removing the glue this way will also prevent you from rubbing the glue into the pores and grain of the wood. If all else fells and you wind up with a film of glue on the wood, acetone will soften and remove titebond II. Just don’t saturate the joint with it.

-- Tim -- http://tmuli.com

I do agree with Tenontim. Easiest to remove the glue when fresh.

I would think that the sanding drum gets warm (hot?) and is making the glue somewhat gummy and clogging your belts. I bought one a few months back, and have learned to make very shallow passes. I also clean my glue lines prior to sanding. The bulk of the glue is removed after about 30mins, but after a few hours I use a scraper.

-- Nicky

Time to grab the cabinet scraper or the hand scraper to get rid of the glue line! Don’t underestimate the power and finish of a good scraper. I’ve got a heavy duty one that I only use to scrape glue joints.
After you have removed all the excess glue take the board to your sander. Works every time!

-- Jim

Right. The operative words are “all the glue” LOL

Lee

-- No piece is cut too short. It was meant for a smaller project.

Something you might try is getting hold of some zinc stearate powder and lightly dusting the drun(sandpaper) with this stuff prior to your first few passes.
Manufacturers also sell stearated sandpaper that helps thing to not stick to the backing.
Check your buddy to see which one he is using.

p.s. slower and lighter is better if you can.

Cheers
Bob

-- A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner

That’s strange. I use the same glue. I let it dry hard and then use a scraper to remove the the dried glue.

I am using drum sander though, and never had that problem.

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.