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Forum topic by Panthers65 posted 12-25-2017 06:57 PM 986 views 1 time favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Panthers65

12 posts in 509 days


12-25-2017 06:57 PM

Thanks for the help in advance. I’m finishing up some kitchen cabinets and my wife wants SW Antique White on them. I have a large air compressor and a HF purple HVLP spray gun, but I’m not sure if spraying is the best way to finish these cabinets. The cabinets are raw now, what would be the best way to finish these?

I’m thinking:
Orbital sand with 150
Shoot primer (suggestions?)
Orbital sand with 220
2 coats of antique whitepre cat
some type of sealer?

If there is a better way to do these, I’m all ears. Thanks!


14 replies so far

View LesB's profile

LesB

1857 posts in 3640 days


#1 posted 12-25-2017 07:23 PM

What kind of wood is it?
I’m thinking a second coat of primer sanded again with 320 or 400.
With a catalized top coat you probably don’t need a sealer but check with the manufacturer on that.

-- Les B, Oregon

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Panthers65

12 posts in 509 days


#2 posted 12-25-2017 08:04 PM

Poplar for the face frames, sandeply plywood boxes.

View jbay's profile (online now)

jbay

2859 posts in 1097 days


#3 posted 12-25-2017 08:21 PM



Thanks for the help in advance. I m finishing up some kitchen cabinets and my wife wants SW Antique White on them. I have a large air compressor and a HF purple HVLP spray gun, but I m not sure if spraying is the best way to finish these cabinets. The cabinets are raw now, what would be the best way to finish these?

I m thinking:
Orbital sand with 150
Shoot primer (suggestions?)
Orbital sand with 220
2 coats of antique whitepre cat
some type of sealer?

If there is a better way to do these, I m all ears. Thanks!

- Panthers65

I would sand to 220
spray 1 coat of SW primer undercoat (this primmer powders up and sands baby butt smooth, very nice primmer)
lightly sand with 320
Spray second coat of same primmer
Sand with 320
Spray antique white (pre-cat)
lightly sand with 320
Spray final coat
Shouldn’t be a need for any top coat after that.

Another option would be to have the primmer tinted to the antique white
Spray a couple of coats (sanding in between coats as above)
Then top coat with 2 coats of clear pre-cat ( sheen of your choice) I prefer the SW dull rubbed.

View ArtMann's profile

ArtMann

1135 posts in 1014 days


#4 posted 12-26-2017 12:15 AM

I am not sure why you would want to apply a sealer. I doubt if it would be any more durable than just the tinted lacquer.

View ChefHDAN's profile

ChefHDAN

1171 posts in 3047 days


#5 posted 12-26-2017 03:01 AM

Have you shot any latex or primer through your gun? I’m soon to start the same task, have been trying to find a larger nozzle for the thicker paint to spray, curious to hear how your gun handles the paint?

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

5171 posts in 2691 days


#6 posted 12-26-2017 11:59 AM

I agree with Art, why did you want to put on a sealer? The lacquer will be plenty durable. Also, using an ROS to finish sand is asking for pigtails in your finish, unless you follow it with a hand sanding.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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Panthers65

12 posts in 509 days


#7 posted 12-26-2017 01:51 PM


I would sand to 220
spray 1 coat of SW primer undercoat (this primmer powders up and sands baby butt smooth, very nice primmer)
lightly sand with 320
Spray second coat of same primmer
Sand with 320
Spray antique white (pre-cat)
lightly sand with 320
Spray final coat
Shouldn t be a need for any top coat after that.

Another option would be to have the primmer tinted to the antique white
Spray a couple of coats (sanding in between coats as above)
Then top coat with 2 coats of clear pre-cat ( sheen of your choice) I prefer the SW dull rubbed.

- jbay

Thanks, would there be any different in the two as far as durability/ease of application? Seems like either way I’d be buying primer and pre-can and applying the same number of coats.


I am not sure why you would want to apply a sealer. I doubt if it would be any more durable than just the tinted lacquer.

- ArtMann



I agree with Art, why did you want to put on a sealer? The lacquer will be plenty durable. Also, using an ROS to finish sand is asking for pigtails in your finish, unless you follow it with a hand sanding.

- Fred Hargis

Just what I’m use to, apply the color then seal it. If it’s not necessary I’m all for removing a step. So I should just ROS Sand the bare wood, and then block/sponge sand between coats?


Have you shot any latex or primer through your gun? I m soon to start the same task, have been trying to find a larger nozzle for the thicker paint to spray, curious to hear how your gun handles the paint?

- ChefHDAN

I haven’t shot latex through it, from what I’ve seen the 1.4 tip on the HF gun is much too small. I did spray a dresser in pigmented lacquer from SW and it sprayed nice. HF has a couple of the suction fed cup guns that come with a 1.8 Tip, but I’m still not sure if that would be big enough. They are cheap enough and Ive got a good drill press down stairs, I might try and buy a gun and drill one out to a 2.2 and see if it would spray latex then.

View jar944's profile

jar944

127 posts in 1635 days


#8 posted 12-26-2017 03:09 PM

I’m a fan of solvent lacquer if your area allows it.

This is a set of pantry cabinets I recently finished. Poplar face frames ro sanded to 180
1 coat of high build undercoater
Hand scuff sanded with 320
2 coats of Precat lacquer



View CharlesNeil's profile

CharlesNeil

2457 posts in 4068 days


#9 posted 12-26-2017 03:23 PM

1.8 is sufficient for latex, however it doesnt make for a very durable finish on cabinets , unless you clear coat it .
You cant simply drill out a nozzle , the needle wouldnt match and it would leak ,

View Panthers65's profile

Panthers65

12 posts in 509 days


#10 posted 12-26-2017 03:26 PM



1.8 is sufficient for latex, however it doesnt make for a very durable finish on cabinets , unless you clear coat it .
You cant simply drill out a nozzle , the needle wouldnt match and it would leak ,

- CharlesNeil

Thanks.

Does anyone know the viscosity of the Kem Aqua Surfacer? Reading more into the Kem Aqua Plus it seems to be a very thin material that would spray well through my current 1.4 Tip, but I haven’t found any idea on how thick the Kem Aqua Surfacer is and if I would need the 1.8 tip or not.

View rwe2156's profile

rwe2156

3163 posts in 1678 days


#11 posted 12-26-2017 03:36 PM

IMO spraying is the ONLY way to finish cabinets. You can spray latex through a 1.4 tip, but its tricky and requires a lot of thinning. Several YT videos on this. I chose to use oil base paint (if your state will allow it).

I had my first try at HVLP spraying on a bathroom vanity build. I used SW Pro Block primer and SW ProClassic for the top coats. The HF purple gun worked fine once I learned how much to thin the paint. (BTW they are on sale today for $9.99). I did 2 coats of primer & hand sanded 220 between coats, then 2 coats of the PC.

I would not use an orbital sander between coats you will risk sanding the paint off especially on corners.

I ran the stiles, rails and panels through a drum sander & painted the panels prior to installation (caution: doing this will result in the panel being too tight so make the grooves a bit sloppy of course this depends somewhat on what type profile you use).

The biggest thing I learned is do not rush through the prep. With paint even the most miniscule defect will show up.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View CharlesNeil's profile

CharlesNeil

2457 posts in 4068 days


#12 posted 12-26-2017 03:44 PM

Kem Aqua sprays well , just use the paint as the primer , unless its MDF ,
shoot a wet coat, let dry , good scuff sand with some 220 or finer for first coat, there after 320 .
I spray it with a 1.4 straight from the can .

View Joel_B's profile

Joel_B

349 posts in 1579 days


#13 posted 01-03-2018 04:06 PM

I have plans to spray my kitchen cabinets and decided I would use Emtech EM6500 instead of Latex. It is supposed to spray better than Latex. You can order it in any SW color.

-- Joel, Encinitas, CA

View DS's profile

DS

3030 posts in 2618 days


#14 posted 01-03-2018 04:56 PM

I agree with jbay. Two coats of primer, your color coat, optional 2nd color coat and done

Sometimes, if I add an antiquing glaze over the color coat, I will add a clear top coat, but otherwise, it is not needed.

-- "Hard work is not defined by the difficulty of the task as much as a person's desire to perform it.", DS251

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