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Forum topic by recycle1943 posted 12-23-2017 10:21 PM 871 views 0 times favorited 20 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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recycle1943

2515 posts in 1826 days


12-23-2017 10:21 PM

I have a 10” unisaw 36-812 and just for insurance I thought I would get a starter switch to have on hand. Unfortunately it is discountinued and I can’t seem to find a replacement but I know there’s one out there and sure would appreciate it if someone could point me in the right direction.
Bear in mind that I’m not and electrician, I need a plug and play switch.
The other option I’ve been entertaining is just to buy a new saw but looking at my check book I find there aren’t enough zero’s on the right side of the decimal point to follow thru with that option. ‹(•¿•)›

-- Dick, Malvern Ohio - my biggest fear is that when I die, my wife sells my toys for what I told her I paid for them


20 replies so far

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

7053 posts in 2403 days


#1 posted 12-23-2017 10:45 PM

I have a 10” unisaw 36-812 and just for insurance I thought I would get a starter switch to have on hand. Unfortunately it is discountinued and I can’t seem to find a replacement but I know there’s one out there and sure would appreciate it if someone could point me in the right direction.

Here you go: 905224 Switch

Although I don’t see a reason for doing so… the switch is pretty generic, yours is apparently working just fine, and in the event that it does go south, they are easily replaceable with just about any IEC type starter, even from Grizzly :)

But hey, it’s your money!

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View John Smith's profile (online now)

John Smith

1489 posts in 366 days


#2 posted 12-23-2017 11:16 PM

I just bought the one that Brad recommended only with the paddle “stop” cover.
fairly easy to wire up. but to fit the switch body into a new hole takes a bit of finesse.
you do need a little bit of skill with your imagination and hand tools to
cut the hole out with a grinder and some washers. all in all, maybe an hour – but worth it
to have that BIG RED STOP paddle….. $28.00 on ebay. 110/120V…. 2HP /35A.
[when you go through a catastrophic event, you will appreciate the BIG RED STOP paddle].

.

-- I started out with nothing in life ~ and still have most of it left.

View woodbutcherbynight's profile

woodbutcherbynight

5720 posts in 2613 days


#3 posted 12-24-2017 01:59 AM

I recently upgraded to the paddle style. Takes some getting used to after years of the other style switch but nice to bump the stop and it cuts off. Used a grey plastic electrical box from the borg to make mount for it.

-- Live to tell the stories, they sound better that way.

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recycle1943

2515 posts in 1826 days


#4 posted 12-24-2017 12:35 PM

Besides around $35 difference between the 2 switches, what could be the difference ? They both appear to be the same box but is there a significant internal difference between them that is not obvious ?

-- Dick, Malvern Ohio - my biggest fear is that when I die, my wife sells my toys for what I told her I paid for them

View John Smith's profile (online now)

John Smith

1489 posts in 366 days


#5 posted 12-24-2017 02:01 PM

Dick – I compared a few sources and see that they are basically the same. (on the outside).
only difference I can think of would be that the cheaper ones may have Chinese knockoff parts on the inside.
but so far, mine is working as it should and the plastic is robust in construction.
(time can only tell how well it stands up to normal use). you get what you pay for. so we’ll have to wait-n-see.
my drill press is next as it only has a simple vintage on/off toggle switch and that does not sit well with me.

if you google search Electrical Motor / Machine Safety On Off Paddle Switch many styles and sources pop up
and the price is all over the map with HomeDepot being the most trustworthy @ $14.00 and 4.5 stars.

if you do buy a spare, here is the wiring diagram for the switch that I bought. if it is the same as yours,
it will be simple to swap out using the same wire on the same screws.

.

-- I started out with nothing in life ~ and still have most of it left.

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recycle1943

2515 posts in 1826 days


#6 posted 12-24-2017 03:28 PM

Thanks John – gheeeeeez I found one on Amazon for $13.99 w/free shipping (Prime)
Am I to understand that this switch replaces the original switch ? What about the motor starter, isn’t that a soft start feature in the original switch ?

Yeah, I’m easily confused ‹(•¿•)›

-- Dick, Malvern Ohio - my biggest fear is that when I die, my wife sells my toys for what I told her I paid for them

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

7053 posts in 2403 days


#7 posted 12-24-2017 03:51 PM

There are a bunch of switches that look the same (use the same enclosure/buttons), but are not. Maintained contact, momentary contact, magnetic, current and voltage ratings, etc…

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View John Smith's profile (online now)

John Smith

1489 posts in 366 days


#8 posted 12-24-2017 03:53 PM

folding my cards here – I’m out !! LOL

I have zero experience with motor parts – even less with mechanical wiring.
I can rewire a whole house – but when it comes to motors, there is just too much
involved for my walnut sized brain to comprehend.

as far as replacement of what you have – only you can determine that.
for $14.00, just order one and compare it. the vintage saw that I rebuilt
had a metal residential outlet box with a wall light switch and not grounded.
so anything above that was an improvement. I had to enlarge the hole in the
metal cabinet to accept the new switch and a plastic outlet box on the inside.
but with your configuration, we would have to see close up photos of your switch
as well as any parts for motors that you are concerned with.
other than my experience with this particular switch, I’m afraid I can not offer any further assistance.

.

-- I started out with nothing in life ~ and still have most of it left.

View Madmark2's profile

Madmark2

405 posts in 792 days


#9 posted 12-24-2017 04:14 PM

Had a stop switch that came with my Grizzly G0715P that just recently failed. The switch had arced and flamed to the point that the contacts were gone. Many of the switches are based on a KEDU model HY56 push button module that in my case failed. Two contact pairs, one set was pristine, one spattered away. Notice the copper spatter:

M

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recycle1943

2515 posts in 1826 days


#10 posted 12-24-2017 05:52 PM

I have pictures of my switch but not having any luck with photobucket – gonna quit before I end up having to buy a new computer

-- Dick, Malvern Ohio - my biggest fear is that when I die, my wife sells my toys for what I told her I paid for them

View Mike_D_S's profile

Mike_D_S

496 posts in 2418 days


#11 posted 12-24-2017 09:18 PM

@MadMark,

I had exactly the same problem and in addition to the switch finally failing, i notice reduced power shortly before the complete failure.

Edit: forgot to add that my saw is the Steel City, but uses the same exact contactor switch.

Mike

-- No honey, that's not new, I've had that forever......

View Loren's profile

Loren

10477 posts in 3852 days


#12 posted 12-24-2017 10:21 PM



I have pictures of my switch but not having any luck with photobucket – gonna quit before I end up having to buy a new computer

- recycle1943

Photbucket doesn’t work on LJs and most other
websites anyway. I think Photobucket requests a
license fee to post to other sites.

You can upload pics direct to LJs. It’s a 2-step
process when you post. Click on img, upload
your photo, then you have to select “insert”
to put the picture in the post.

View recycle1943's profile

recycle1943

2515 posts in 1826 days


#13 posted 12-24-2017 10:32 PM

I have pictures of my switch but not having any luck with photobucket – gonna quit before I end up having to buy a new computer

- recycle1943

Photbucket doesn t work on LJs and most other
websites anyway. I think Photobucket requests a
license fee to post to other sites.

You can upload pics direct to LJs. It s a 2-step
process when you post. Click on img, upload
your photo, then you have to select “insert”
to put the picture in the post.

- Loren

Thanks Loren – gonna try it

-- Dick, Malvern Ohio - my biggest fear is that when I die, my wife sells my toys for what I told her I paid for them

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recycle1943

2515 posts in 1826 days


#14 posted 12-24-2017 10:43 PM

I guess my whole point is that my switch appears to have a motor starter as well as an on/off switch and I’m not sure that the lessor switch has the same

-- Dick, Malvern Ohio - my biggest fear is that when I die, my wife sells my toys for what I told her I paid for them

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

7053 posts in 2403 days


#15 posted 12-25-2017 01:43 AM

That is an IEC type starter, not just a switch. You can use any one that is rated for your motors FLA. They are pricey though.. but you don’t need a Delta badged one, so you can save a few beans by getting a generic. It is strange that the parts diagram for the machine on e-replacements and other sites show a different arrangement though, with the overload inside the housing, but separate from the rest of the components (and using the switch I linked to up above).

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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