need help with bandsaw problem

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Forum topic by Toddmc posted 03-11-2011 12:23 AM 1459 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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30 posts in 3366 days

03-11-2011 12:23 AM

I am having a problem wqitrh my bandsaw I bought used a year ago. It is a harbor frieght 14” with a 3/4HP motor. When resawing lumber it stalls on any type of wood that is over 2”. I have a 3/4” timberwolf resaw blade in it but it still stals even with a feed rate of about 2” per minute. What should I look at to try and fix this or is my motor just to small

13 replies so far

View cabmaker's profile


1730 posts in 2806 days

#1 posted 03-11-2011 12:34 AM

Todd, I wont insult you by asking the obvious : sharp blade, proper tuning,etc. Fact is you wont enjoy resawing with 3/4 hp. There are things you can do (not many with that saw) to maximize capability but if you have your heart set on much resawing, well I think you know what has to be done. Good luck.

View blackcherry's profile


3338 posts in 3820 days

#2 posted 03-11-2011 12:55 AM

I wondering if the main bearings are spinning freely when cutting though thick stock. The only way to check is to open each door one at a time once the saw bogs down or stops cutting. Do this carefully and check if the center bearing is spinning and the 14” wheel has stop moving. Next is to check and see if the main pulley has come lose from the motor shaft. Hope this help in troubleshooting… good luck BC

View Toddmc's profile


30 posts in 3366 days

#3 posted 03-11-2011 01:40 AM

Thanks for the idea. I jammed some wood it and it stalled like normal and here was the result of what I observered with all the doors off: The motor turns a belt connected to a pully, a second belt comes of that pully wich turns the wheels inside the bandsaw. The motor never bogged down it was still turning the belt connected to it at the same speed, the pully was also still turning but the second belt that connects the pully to the wheels was not turning at all even though the pully it was connected to was turning. upon inspecting this belt it shows significant wear and is highly freyed. The culpret seems to be that belt, I will replace all the belts since the other one looked rough too. maybe this will solve it. I love woodworking, but when it comes to machinary I think I am conmpletly lost. thanks or the suggestion.

View syenefarmer's profile


488 posts in 3077 days

#4 posted 03-11-2011 02:02 AM

As long as you plan on replacing the belts let me suggest you replace them with link belts. They will cost you a little more than standard V-belts but they will help your saw run smoother.

View Toddmc's profile


30 posts in 3366 days

#5 posted 03-11-2011 02:06 AM

I have heard a lot of talk about them and have been considering them for a while now. The reak question is… does the cost really justify the benefit? they are about $4-5 a foot depending on brand and location compared to about $1ft or less for a regular one.

View syenefarmer's profile


488 posts in 3077 days

#6 posted 03-11-2011 02:14 AM

Only you can answer the “cost really justify the benefit” question. I put them on my drill press and for me it was worth the added expense. For someone else, maybe not. Not to demean your saw at all but lets face it, it’s an entry level quality bandsaw and any upgrade you do to make it run better would be a plus.

View patron's profile


13603 posts in 3338 days

#7 posted 03-11-2011 02:16 AM

the small auxilary belt you are talking about may be a dedicated size

a link belt may fit or not
depending on if there is some adjustment there

link belts are nice
less vibration
and no hard spots on it
when it sits to long in one place

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View David Kirtley's profile

David Kirtley

1286 posts in 2995 days

#8 posted 03-11-2011 03:22 AM

Oops, I didn’t read carefully and saw that it had already been diagnosed. Well, I will leave this here anyway just to show the steps.

The motor should be plenty powerful. I have one of those saws. The places I would look in order:

Belts When the blade stalls, are all the belts stopped?

Is the drive wheel spinning when the blade is stalled?

Bearings for wheel
Do they turn easy with the blade off?

Blade bearings
Do they turn easy?

-- Woodworking shouldn't cost a fortune:

View DLCW's profile


530 posts in 2651 days

#9 posted 03-11-2011 11:53 PM

Check to make sure your fence is aligned to the tracking of your blade. Every blade will track differently. You need to go through the process of finding out what that tracking angle is and align your resaw fence to that angle. I’ve got a big Laguna bandsaw and if the blade tracking and fence aren’t properly aligned, I can bog it down pretty easily.

-- Don, Diamond Lake Custom Woodworks - - "If you make something idiot proof, all they do is make a better idiot"

View patcollins's profile


1685 posts in 2862 days

#10 posted 03-12-2011 12:17 AM

3/4 HP should be plenty for a lot of things, heck I cut 2 inch maple with my 9 inch Skil benchtop band saw that has a 1/3 HP motor.

View mpounders's profile


875 posts in 2892 days

#11 posted 03-12-2011 12:40 AM

I think HF has some cheap link belts also…never tried them though.

-- Mike P., Arkansas,

View Grandpa's profile


3259 posts in 2672 days

#12 posted 03-12-2011 05:42 AM

The May 2011 issue of Wood Magazine has an article about tuning you band saw for the most production and some trouble shooting tips that have mostly been addressed above. It also has some tests of new large machines that might be useful.

View TechRedneck's profile


768 posts in 2854 days

#13 posted 03-13-2011 06:10 AM

Link belts are worth the extra money. I put them on all my used tools and even some new ones. Watch for some sales, I got mine from WoodCraft. No Brainer in my opinion. I noticed a difference right away.

-- Mike.... West Virginia. "Man is a tool using animal. Without tools he is nothing, with tools he is all.". T Carlyle

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