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Forum topic by Andy posted 03-10-2011 10:30 PM 1102 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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13 posts in 3989 days

03-10-2011 10:30 PM

how do you get rid of planing skype with a small 12” planer

9 replies so far

View Bertha's profile


13551 posts in 2934 days

#1 posted 03-10-2011 10:31 PM

Do you have stable infeed and outfeed tables? If I rock my piece whatsoever in or out of my 13”, it’ll snipe it badly. You’ll find better answers below. Good luck!

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

View DLCW's profile


530 posts in 2895 days

#2 posted 03-11-2011 12:41 AM

The way I’ve delt with snipe is to cut my pieces a little longer then what is needed and then cut off the sniped end after thicknessing is complete. This way your finished piece is snipe free.

-- Don, Diamond Lake Custom Woodworks - - "If you make something idiot proof, all they do is make a better idiot"

View Ryan's profile


238 posts in 3170 days

#3 posted 03-11-2011 01:10 AM

I’ve tried to eliminate this problem for a while by asking questions to many woodworking experts. I remember there was one partial solution but it was not perfect and very difficult to do it like making complicate jigs or outfeed tables. So I decided to go with it because there is no easy solution for this.
Cutting the lumber a little longer than you need is one easy solution, or changing the feed direction sometimes works well for me. I usually do additional sanding or using jointer to remove the difference.

View ScottN's profile


261 posts in 2920 days

#4 posted 03-11-2011 02:15 AM

Try and hold up a little on the board while feeding the machine and while exiting the machine. I have roller bed extensions on my planer and adjust it so there’s a little upward force.

-- New Auburn,WI

View Sawkerf's profile


1730 posts in 3309 days

#5 posted 03-11-2011 02:29 AM

Snipe usually happens when the board clears the infeed drive roller and drops slightly (often due to its length). The best solution I’ve found is to set the ends of your infeed and outfeed tables slightly higher (~1/16”) than the planer table. This raises the piece slightly and prevents the drop. For really long pieces, I use a roller stand set slightly above the table surface.

In a pinch, you can just use your hand and lift ever so slightly as the piece travels the last few inches.

-- Adversity doesn't build reveals it.

View SnowyRiver's profile


51457 posts in 3721 days

#6 posted 03-11-2011 02:32 AM

If you have an outfeed table, adjust it so its slightly higher at the end of the table (end away from the planer) than the planer bed. This will give a slight lift to the board as it comes out of the planer and usually eliminates or reduces the snipe.

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

View ChunkyC's profile


856 posts in 3495 days

#7 posted 03-11-2011 02:45 AM

raise the in feed and out feed tables up about 1/8 or so.

I feed shorter pieces into the planer skewed. I don’t know why, but it seems to really help with snipe. The planer marks go at a weird angle across the board but nothing that a hand plane and scraper doesn’t take care of easily enough.

-- Chunk's Workshop pictures:

View stnich's profile


122 posts in 3165 days

#8 posted 03-11-2011 03:29 AM

I also slightly lift up on both in feed and out feed. Generally when rough planing things are long enough that it doesn’t come into play. Short pieces I sometimes run skewed or use a long thin push stick to push things through so it engages with the rollers more quickly.

View woody123's profile


53 posts in 3547 days

#9 posted 03-11-2011 10:03 PM

If you have the Delta 12 1/2” planer as I do, you can place a dime on the head of each adjustment boltheads at the infeed table and the outfeed side. The dime seems to be just the right amount of lift needed on both tables to keep snipes at a minimum. This helped with my snipe problem. (;-)>

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