Veneering Question

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Forum topic by ryan1144 posted 03-10-2011 08:04 AM 943 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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4 posts in 2396 days

03-10-2011 08:04 AM

I am in a furniture class where we are making a demi-lune table. The school has provided us with paper-backed cherry veneer for the table top. I would like to do a sunburst pattern on the table top, with the cherry veneer and another species alternating in between. The only smaller pieces of veneer you can buy are non-backed. Are there any issues with joining and gluing up backed and non-backed veneers at the same time, or is it doable?

Thanks in advance,

6 replies so far

View Dandog's profile


250 posts in 2196 days

#1 posted 03-10-2011 09:12 AM

Ryan I wish I could help but I’ve never use the paperback veneer.

-- life an woodworking is one big experiment

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Mark Shymanski

5300 posts in 3134 days

#2 posted 03-11-2011 06:19 AM

Is there a significant difference in thickness?

-- "Checking for square? What madness is this! The cabinet is square because I will it to be so!" Jeremy Greiner LJ Topic#20953 2011 Feb 2

View DLCW's profile


530 posts in 2076 days

#3 posted 03-12-2011 01:20 AM

Ryan I wouldn’t try combining backed and non-backed veneer. There will be a thickness difference and when you go to sand, you will have paper left where there should be veneer.

-- Don, Diamond Lake Custom Woodworks - - "If you make something idiot proof, all they do is make a better idiot"

View ous's profile


64 posts in 2076 days

#4 posted 03-12-2011 03:12 AM

Ryan: I have worked plywood plants all my life. You didn’t say if you plan to glue the work to a substructure by press or by hot iron. Either way get a micrometer and check your paper backed cherry and then take a small piece of your other veneer and hot iron a piece of craft paper onto it using a milk glue such as Elmer’s or Tide-bond. These melt at 180 degrees. Coat one side of the paper and one side of the veneer and let dry. Then check the thickness with a micrometer and you have your story. Even with backed veneer do not us fir or larch because the winter growth is hard and the summer growth soft and sands away leaving a uneven surface that is hard to detect until you sand through then it is two late. Preparing the substructure properly is most of the secret to success. 1/42 veneer is very thin. I hope I have explained this but if you have problem yet let me know.

-- Roy Montana

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4 posts in 2396 days

#5 posted 03-12-2011 07:47 AM

thanks for all the help. Sounds like it’s tricky trying to get the two thicknesses equal. I think I might just skip on this idea. i have enough cherry veneer to cover the tabletop, I was just hoping to have an accent wood to create a sunburst pattern.

View ous's profile


64 posts in 2076 days

#6 posted 03-13-2011 07:28 PM

Please don’t give up on your idea. I think is great that you want something different. Also this about learning something different and with this mind set it will surprise you what you will invent. If nothing else, get a small piece of non backed veneer, a paper grocery bag roll on some Tide bond, grab your Mothers iron and iron it flat. If your Mom is afraid you might get glue on her iron put news paper on top of the work to be ironed. I will be posting next Friday a chess table that the curves and sides were ironed on. You will be surprised what you can do with this method. Either way good luck on your project.

-- Roy Montana

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