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Walnut for Coffee Table - To continue flattening or not?

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Forum topic by Keith Kelly posted 12-15-2017 04:17 PM 464 views 1 time favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Keith Kelly

263 posts in 1626 days


12-15-2017 04:17 PM

I used this project as a reason to buy a welder. The legs/base will be sand blasted to dull it up.

The Walnut i used for the top was a reject at a mill, set aside on the ground for 8 months, not stacked well. It has its fair share of issues, but it’s awesome. I partially surfaced both faces, but am focusing on the top.

There’s one spot on the top that’s lower than the rest. I can keep sanding 3/32” off of the top and will eliminate the low spot. But, that also reduces the thickness of the rest of the top 3/32”.

Options:
  • drum-sand 3/32” more to make it flat, then join them together.
  • Keep as-is. Leave a 1/4” space between the boards, chamfer the inner edges, and have a story to tell about where the wood came from.

What would you do? Lose 3/32”? What am I neglecting to consider?

-- Keith - Bolivar, Missouri, http://www.SquareOneWoodworks.com


14 replies so far

View bbasiaga's profile

bbasiaga

1199 posts in 1958 days


#1 posted 12-15-2017 05:10 PM

Other option: route in a rebate where the two would meet and get a custom piece of glass to match. The you end up with one of those “river tables”, and a great story to tell about the wood.

Otherwise, if the 3/32 isn’t needed for structural integrity, which it does not seem to be, there shouldn’t be an issue sanding them both to match and doing a more traditional top.

Brian

-- Part of engineering is to know when to put your calculator down and pick up your tools.

View Carloz's profile

Carloz

1147 posts in 554 days


#2 posted 12-15-2017 05:18 PM

View Keith Kelly's profile

Keith Kelly

263 posts in 1626 days


#3 posted 12-15-2017 06:06 PM


Other option: route in a rebate where the two would meet and get a custom piece of glass to match. The you end up with one of those “river tables”, and a great story to tell about the wood.

Otherwise, if the 3/32 isn t needed for structural integrity, which it does not seem to be, there shouldn t be an issue sanding them both to match and doing a more traditional top.

Brian

- bbasiaga

Good idea.



- Carloz

Not gonna happen, but I appreciate the humor.

-- Keith - Bolivar, Missouri, http://www.SquareOneWoodworks.com

View Smitty_Cabinetshop's profile

Smitty_Cabinetshop

15278 posts in 2581 days


#4 posted 12-15-2017 06:08 PM

No other way to orient that non-live-edge piece to have the center line thickness equal? Then the thinner section goes face down OR to an edge.

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive --

View Keith Kelly's profile

Keith Kelly

263 posts in 1626 days


#5 posted 12-15-2017 06:32 PM



No other way to orient that non-live-edge piece to have the center line thickness equal? Then the thinner section goes face down OR to an edge.

- Smitty_Cabinetshop

Not that I can think of. I was aware of this low spot when I began the project. The other side is worse. I guess, putting the live edges in the middle may not be terrible. People do some cool things that way but it looks like a lot of work.

I’m leaning towards the sanding 3/32 route to make it a flat top. Kids will be playing with legos on this top, so removing voids would be a plus.

shoot, maybe a big enough gap that legos can intentionally fit through, so a bucket can sit underneath it to catch the legos that fall. Hmmmmmmmm…....

-- Keith - Bolivar, Missouri, http://www.SquareOneWoodworks.com

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Smitty_Cabinetshop

15278 posts in 2581 days


#6 posted 12-15-2017 06:35 PM

^ Now you’re thinking!!

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive --

View sras's profile

sras

4790 posts in 3092 days


#7 posted 12-15-2017 06:40 PM

You’ve got some ideas, bit I have to say that is some beautiful wood!

-- Steve - Impatience is Expensive

View anneb3's profile

anneb3

41 posts in 1516 days


#8 posted 12-15-2017 07:07 PM

Only the top has to be level, no one checks underneath. Shim the bottom as necessary

View Keith Kelly's profile

Keith Kelly

263 posts in 1626 days


#9 posted 12-15-2017 07:42 PM


Only the top has to be level, no one checks underneath. Shim the bottom as necessary

- anneb3

yep, this is my plan. The bottom has much more unevenness.

-- Keith - Bolivar, Missouri, http://www.SquareOneWoodworks.com

View Keith Kelly's profile

Keith Kelly

263 posts in 1626 days


#10 posted 12-15-2017 08:05 PM

apparently I made a double post. Feel free to delete this one.

-- Keith - Bolivar, Missouri, http://www.SquareOneWoodworks.com

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

1352 posts in 1761 days


#11 posted 12-15-2017 08:45 PM

Now that’s a table top. The grain and color is killer!

-- Aj

View Manitario's profile

Manitario

2629 posts in 2846 days


#12 posted 12-15-2017 09:48 PM

I’d just sand the low spot and not worry about that part of the top being level. You could also sand the matching piece to match ie. so that it’s the same thickness at that one spot.

-- Sometimes the creative process requires foul language. -- Charles Neil

View dhazelton's profile

dhazelton

2753 posts in 2259 days


#13 posted 12-15-2017 09:54 PM

Are you going to glue those together? If you use a biscuit joiner or Domino those would help align the top surfaces closer together than the boards just lying on the frame like we’re seeing. Keep the unevenness to the underside basically…

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

8162 posts in 2540 days


#14 posted 12-15-2017 09:57 PM

Amazing grain. I’d glue it together like you have it and sand it until it evens out, a little saucer

in the middle if you will.

Looking to see it finished in the project thread.

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