|Forum topic by Millo||posted 1011 days ago||2417 views||0 times favorited||41 replies|
1011 days ago
I know this is an often-asked question, but please humor me should you have the time to do so…
I didn’t want to get power tools until after a while of going (maybe two semesters), once a week, to the local community college’s woodshop but that is proving to be a waaaayyy slower process than previously thought for completion of projects and thus trying out methods of joinery, etc. In that woodshop some tools are awesome, some tools are standard, and sometimes the tools are badly set up or have broken parts, like a biscuit joiner I used last week that after setting up height/depth adjustments for this mini project it wouldn’t cut straight because one of its plastic parts was broken.
Thing is, the router is awesome for joinery, but I don’t own a table saw yet. Oops. This SEEMS TO MEAN it’ll be difficult to mill stuff to measurements taken FROM THE PIECE which APPARENTLY is a more accurate procedure than trying to join parts off a cutlist. Would it even make sense for me to get a router at the moment? I’m tempted to take advantage of this situation as a way to start my power tool collection, because it has to start somewhere. I’m in no hurry…well, in very little hurry.
Now after seeing that Triton routers are going to be on sale @ Woodcraft I am tempted to buy a router, since I have read many good reviews on these. I think the answer is 2.25 but I’m sooooo tempted by the larger number.
Thus far I’ve gathered: 2.25 is better for hand-held operations, 3.25 for table operations.
Well, I know I’ll want a table-mounted router to do rabbeting/dadoing on sheet goods. For profiling I’m thinking it shouldn’t be a problem to do it on the table, as opposed to handheld—provided it is on a board or on outside edges as I assume it’s a difficult operation on inside edge of a frame, for example. Am I right or wrong? I know that for projects for myself I will not be using too many ogee profiles or panel-raising. I know I will want to get into sliding-dovetail joinery quite a bit for solid-wood construction. I do not plan to get a dovetail jig soon (out of being funding-challenged) but they have a few Leigh jigs at school, and I think one or two of the Porter Cables…but I know I will want to get into box-joint and dovetail joinery. In fact I was thinking of doing a bit of dovetailing for next project using one of the Leigh jigs at school (this project will be started on March 22nd or 29th). Do I need a bushing guide to use the Triton on Leigh jigs or do Leigh jigs come with dedicated bearing-guided bits? What size bushing, you reckon?
I know I WILL want try my hand at router-based inlaying (most free-hand as opposed to template, but also go the template route for some geometrical shapes I have in mind). 3.25HP might be dangerous for that—or is it just as safe or even safer than 2.25 if set at low speed? I know speed setting is mainly for controlling the speed at which the different points along a bit radius rotate, but it should make a difference also—I think—on how easy the tool might be to control in various scenarios. Any enlightenment you might want to offer on this subject?
A friend had offered me a Hitachi (either 2-1/4HP or 1.75HP) not too long ago but I just went “let me see” and never touched the subject again as I was consciously avoiding cluttering the garage even more w/ power tools before having a good organization plan for it. This would be a lot cheaper than getting any of the Tritons, because of the included accessories w/ the Hitachi. I can’t remember what was included but the price was very negotiable on his end (as in $100 or less).
Which one you think I should get and what accessories?