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Forum topic by richardchaos posted 12-07-2017 12:27 PM 161 views 0 times favorited 2 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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richardchaos

546 posts in 216 days


12-07-2017 12:27 PM

I am sure most of you saw my smiley happy thing SEE PIC.

This was a research piece, I made drawer backs side fronts and 3/4 dados in the sides and a piece of 3/4 hard wood runners, BUT I had a hell of a time getting them perfectly matched up left and right and thy bind up some….

I am wanted any input on what or how I could make a cheaper efficient and better way to make the drawers work.

-- “In a time of universal deceit, telling the truth is a revolutionary act.” ― George Orwell


2 replies so far

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Tennessee

2588 posts in 2351 days


#1 posted 12-07-2017 12:37 PM

I’ve done a lot of curved pieces, and I always have one straight line in there somewhere as a baseline.

In your case, it looks to be the bottom line where the box sits on the bench. I would measure all drawer lines off that baseline, and build essentially straight drawers and guides. Any curves that show, (in this case the fronts only), would be where you could either cut the front of the drawer at an angle if needed, and curve the front face of the drawer only, or even keep the drawers straight and put on a thick enough front so you can create the illusion of curves.

If you look at some of the old antique round multi drawer cabinets that were used in places like old hardware stores, sewing stores, a lot of them have only the front of the drawer curved. All the remaining drawer standards were straight.

Since you have a slanted top, the only drawer that would have to be more shallow in the rear would be the top drawer.

-- Tsunami Guitars and Custom Woodworking, Cleveland, TN

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richardchaos

546 posts in 216 days


#2 posted 12-07-2017 01:07 PM

Thanks for the info. I also have an issue getting the front of the drawers curved and mounted so they all sit perfect when closed. These fronts are 1 by (3/4) set at an angel the cut roughly. I then mounted them on the drawer boxes put the side one with clamps and sanded them to the shape. I got really luck on this one but in future builds its going to be to much work to get it right I think.

I am thinking of a 1/4 MDF like a shelf that goes all the way across for each shelf to sit on


I ve done a lot of curved pieces, and I always have one straight line in there somewhere as a baseline.

In your case, it looks to be the bottom line where the box sits on the bench. I would measure all drawer lines off that baseline, and build essentially straight drawers and guides. Any curves that show, (in this case the fronts only), would be where you could either cut the front of the drawer at an angle if needed, and curve the front face of the drawer only, or even keep the drawers straight and put on a thick enough front so you can create the illusion of curves.

If you look at some of the old antique round multi drawer cabinets that were used in places like old hardware stores, sewing stores, a lot of them have only the front of the drawer curved. All the remaining drawer standards were straight.

Since you have a slanted top, the only drawer that would have to be more shallow in the rear would be the top drawer.

- Tennessee

-- “In a time of universal deceit, telling the truth is a revolutionary act.” ― George Orwell

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