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Is this plane worth the repair?

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Forum topic by PaBull posted 1274 days ago 2491 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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PaBull

928 posts in 2297 days


1274 days ago

I am looking at possibly buying this plane. It is a Stanley #3, but it has a hairline fracture in the side of the metal base.

Can this be repaired? Or should it be repaired?

What does this do to the value of this plane?

Thanks for your help.

-- rhykenologist and plant grower


15 replies so far

View Loren's profile

Loren

7425 posts in 2280 days


#1 posted 1274 days ago

Without the crack, worth between $100-$300 I’d say.

That’s not just a #3, it’s a Bedrock #3 which makes it a sought-after collectible.

The crack can be repaired with brazing. It may or may not diminish the value
of the plane to some collectors, but if you want to try using it the crack
should perhaps be fixed in some way. Where the crack is matters – some
cracks can be tolerated in a plane, some jeopardize the integrity of the
entire casting.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View DaddyZ's profile

DaddyZ

2381 posts in 1672 days


#2 posted 1274 days ago

No its not worth anything – send it to me & i will throw it away for you ;)

-- Pat - Worker of Wood, Collector of Tools, Father of one

View PaBull's profile

PaBull

928 posts in 2297 days


#3 posted 1274 days ago

Thanks, Loren, yes it is a bedrock 603.
Rick, that is good information, i will check with a local welder.
DaddyZ, what’s your address?

Pabull.

-- rhykenologist and plant grower

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DaddyZ

2381 posts in 1672 days


#4 posted 1274 days ago

Busted !!! I really don’t use a plane that often, I deffinately don’t know how to fix it !!!

-- Pat - Worker of Wood, Collector of Tools, Father of one

View b2rtch's profile

b2rtch

4318 posts in 1680 days


#5 posted 1274 days ago

I use silver soldering quite often to solder high pressure copper air and water lines.
This is good stuff but expensive.
Using silver solder on a plane I would be concerned about distortions as it requires high temperatures

-- Bert

View Mura's profile

Mura

17 posts in 1311 days


#6 posted 1274 days ago

Nice looking plane!

View dlmckirdy's profile

dlmckirdy

195 posts in 1765 days


#7 posted 1274 days ago

I’ve done plenty of silver soldering. The plane would need to be stripped down to the body and the very end of the crack would have to be “stop drilled” to prevent cracking any further (about 1/16” dia. should do, if there are no radial cracks around it). Then it should be heated in an oven to between 500-750 degrees (SLOOOOOWLY). Then, while still hot, the joint would be silver soldered, including plugging the stopdrill. Then let it cool just as slowly with the sole resting on a flat surface (preferably as hot as it is). When it is naturally down to room temperature, inspect the entire body for other/new cracks (sometimes cast iron will crack as stresses relieve during heating or cooling). If there are no more cracks, file and polish it to like new condition, and the repair will hardly be noticable (If the iron begins to rust, the silver won’t, and will show up like a sore thumb, so keep it shiny!

-- Doug, Bakersfield, CA - I measured twice, cut it twice, and it is still too short!

View PaBull's profile

PaBull

928 posts in 2297 days


#8 posted 1274 days ago

You have all talked me right out of buying this plane. Thanks for all your great advise. I had no idea it would this much skill to fix up this little plane. I just thought I found a steal of a deal.

But for the guys who want to know more about it, here is the link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290539726062

The bid is $1.04 right now!!

-- rhykenologist and plant grower

View mafe's profile

mafe

9491 posts in 1721 days


#9 posted 1273 days ago

I think also it’s a inside job!
And do understand that you dont walk that road…
Best thoughts,
Mads

-- Mad F, the fanatical rhykenologist and vintage architect. Democraticwoodworking.

View David Craig's profile

David Craig

2135 posts in 1741 days


#10 posted 1272 days ago

Don’t feel too bad on missing out on this one. It is already almost 60 bucks in the bid and has two days left on it. If you would like to get familiar with planes and learn to fix them up, I would suggest starting with the Bailey’s. The old ones are really nice planes and can be picked up very reasonably.

David

-- There is little that is simple when it comes to making a simple box.

View Bertha's profile

Bertha

12951 posts in 1325 days


#11 posted 1272 days ago

I definitely wouldn’t bother repairing this plane but you could make some money parting it out. It’s a very desirable plane & the frog is what makes it so desirable. For me, it wouldn’t be worth the hassle unless I had another 603 lying around that needed a lever cap, etc.

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

View PaBull's profile

PaBull

928 posts in 2297 days


#12 posted 1272 days ago

Thanks Mads, I agree, I am trying to walk that fine line, the narrow road. Not always easy. But no I am not one of the insiders.
David, I saw that, maybe my own doing, now the world knows about this plane.
Bertha, it is all yours, I am going on. I have a nice smooth Stanley #3 I will be sticking with. And after this, my Stanley is looking much better.

Thanks for all your input. It is so nice to have this support when you are not sure about a purchase.

Pabull.

-- rhykenologist and plant grower

View Bertha's profile

Bertha

12951 posts in 1325 days


#13 posted 1272 days ago

PaBull, there’s nothing shabby about a vintage #3. In my opinion, you don’t really enjoy the benefits of the bedrock design in the smaller planes. I’ve got a Sweetheart #4 that I like better than my 604. Now a big 607, you might be getting your money’s worth. I like the look of the flat-walled Bedrocks over the curved wall ones, which are probably superior in quality. Who ever knows, right? But you’re right about one thing, it’s really cool to have a gang of plane freaks to consult with.

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

15688 posts in 2850 days


#14 posted 1272 days ago

I looked at the link…

Are we sure the seller is talking about cracks in the body and not the hairline cracks which are noticeable on the tote?

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View PaBull's profile

PaBull

928 posts in 2297 days


#15 posted 1272 days ago

Q: Does that mean splits in the wood, or any cracks in the cast iron?
A: Please look at pictures 6 and 8. There appears to be a stress line in the metal and a hairline at the bottom of the large wood handle. Otherwise it is pretty solid.

This might answer your question, Charley.

-- rhykenologist and plant grower

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