Anyone ever install a wood stove in the shop?

  • Advertise with us

« back to Focus on the Workspace forum

Forum topic by Cliff De Witt posted 03-02-2011 12:05 AM 20477 views 0 times favorited 33 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Cliff De Witt 's profile

Cliff De Witt

130 posts in 2890 days

03-02-2011 12:05 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question refurbishing woodburning traditional

Last night the love of my life came home with a Franklin stove for the workshop. Here in Texas we only have about 6 weeks of winter but she evidently got tired of my bitching about being cold in the shop so she saw this stove and picked it up.

My question is this; how hard is running a chimney pipe for a Franklin stove?

I have a clear shot at the roof and aside from a couple of inches of space and insulation board between the chimney and any wood is there any other problems I should look out for?

-- Trying to find an answer to my son’s question: “…and forming organic cellulose by spinning it on its axis is interesting, why?”

33 replies so far

View canadianchips's profile


2613 posts in 3194 days

#1 posted 03-02-2011 12:18 AM

The chimney should extend above the roof line for proper draft.
That looks like a great little stove to take the chill out.

-- "My mission in life - make everyone smile !"

View ScottN's profile


261 posts in 2877 days

#2 posted 03-02-2011 12:35 AM

might want to check with your insurance company first. I have a wood stove in my shop and there making me get the expensive triple wall stainless steel crap.$$$

Shes given me 3 years to get it done, my 3 years is up this summer. :(

I exhaust mine out the wall. I plan on building a chimney out of the standard chimney block 15’ high. So I only need about 6’ of triple wall pipe.

-- New Auburn,WI

View William's profile


9950 posts in 3040 days

#3 posted 03-02-2011 01:43 AM

I live in Mississippi and run a wood stove in my shop every year. I have mine run out the window. I bought the expensive double wall pipe three years ago when I first got the stove. I put it up at the first sign of cold weather, usually around late November or early December here. I take it down right after Easter. We usually get a cold snap right before Easter. Doing it this way, the double wall pipe still looks fine. I do have to buy two elbows every year because they rust out. Those two usually run me about twenty bucks.
My pipe goes up, elbows outwards, through a piece of tin I have cut that I put over the window for this purpose every year. Then it elbows up and runs up about three feet above my shop. I’ve never had any problems with draft or anything. It works great and keeps my work area cozy and warm.
I do not have insurance. I cannot afford it. So, i really can’t tell you much about that besides, if you do, be sure to discuss it with your agent before doing anything.


View chrisstef's profile


17759 posts in 3204 days

#4 posted 03-02-2011 02:54 AM

also make sure that the fire brick inside is in good shape or you will rot out the stove

-- Its not a crack, its a casting imperfection.

View tenontim's profile


2131 posts in 3942 days

#5 posted 03-02-2011 02:55 AM

I picked up a used stove to put in my shop. Got tired of burning all of the scraps in the back yard and wasting all of those btu’s. Never did hook it up, though. I worry about the fumes from my finishes igniting. I have a gas heater and I can turn off the thermostat while I’m finishing and turn it back on when the fumes are cleared. Like the previous posters mentioned, you’ll need the double wall pipe, because a lot of heat goes up that smoke stack. If you can, the best way to run the pipe, would be straight up.

View KnotWright's profile


258 posts in 3685 days

#6 posted 03-02-2011 03:27 AM

Looks like you have a concrete floor so that’s a plus. Next you need to figure out where you’ll be placing the wood stove. You need good clearance around the stove to prevent accident fires from the radiant heat generated. Since its a used stove, you can check online and compare sizes and there should be an installation guide that will help you with the clearances.

As for your chimney, looks like you are going to first need the transition piece from the stove to the chimney pipe, looks like its on oval take off from the stove. Tractor supply stocks both 6” and 8” black single wall stove pipe. If you also check online you can find pricing for other piping too, double and triple wall, if you decide to go that way.

When the chimney pipe goes thru the roof, make sure to OVER SIZE the hole to prevent hidden fires. They make a Thimble for this that keeps the heat transmission from charring the wood.

Since you are in Dallas there should be any number of fireplace retailers that can help you get the parts you need to have a SAFE installation.

I’m lucky, I actually had brick chimneys in my buildings so I only had to install pipes to there and I was in business.

One last safety tip on this, buy a good quality fire extinguisher and keep it maintained and in a very accessible location. Keep the chimney clean every year, when you are burning shop scraps you can build up a good layer of creosote on the piping, so check every year before you start the heating season.

-- James

View Resurrected's profile


671 posts in 2889 days

#7 posted 03-02-2011 05:54 AM

Get the triple wall chimmny and have at it with the directions. its simple. On another note and the main reason I got rid of mine. It is explosive with finish, stains, gas and many other things. Next it takes up a lot of floor space due to the extra room needed due to spontanous combustion.

-- Who can I block now???????????????????????

View redryder's profile


2393 posts in 3299 days

#8 posted 03-02-2011 07:39 AM

Your wife brought home a cast iron woodstove?? That doesn’t happen every day. I have had one in my shop for the past 15 years. In the corner with a ceiling fan above. I put cement backer board on the two walls closest to the stove. You only need single wall pipe inside the building (keep cost down) and at least double wall out through the roof. Buy a good rubber boot for the outside roof line and caulk the heck out of it. I run a stove pipe brush down it once a year and check the gasket around the door. I use mine five days a week. I use common sense and keep a buffer zone around it. Me and the wet dog love it. Good luck and stay warm…....

-- mike...............

View BobG's profile


172 posts in 3159 days

#9 posted 03-02-2011 05:13 PM

How about an electric heater. Very little problems and they have thermostats built in. Besides when you get ready to do some finishing just turn it off until you are done. wait long enough for the fumes to dissipate then turn it on. And no triple wall pipe to buy at about $100.00 a foot.

-- BobG, Lowell, Arkansas--------My goal in life is to be the kind of person my dog thinks I am! Make more saw dust!!

View Corks's profile


8 posts in 2888 days

#10 posted 03-02-2011 05:36 PM

Thank you for sharing. I used that very stove for many years and just loved it. All the scraps that I was shoving into that little wood eater would crakle and pop much to my delight. I miss that little guy but gas is much better now I’m in my 40’ X 40’ new shop!

-- Treat every day like is was your last and some day you'll be right.

View Bertha's profile


13551 posts in 2890 days

#11 posted 03-02-2011 06:09 PM

It’s an absolutely beautiful stove. I bought a Vermont only to find about 100 vintage wood stoves on Craigslist. I know nothing of installing them, other than to call a contractor. I’ve got a 40 foot run up to the roof of my log home. Now I’m worried that the installation will be very pricey. Good luck, she’s a beaut.

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

View BTKS's profile


1989 posts in 3662 days

#12 posted 03-04-2011 05:26 AM

Use mine all the time. It really takes the edge off the shop. Check your local codes and any info your insurance co. has. Mine provided a general layout for minimum distances and materials for each area of the stove and chimney system. My house stove requires double insulated with starter collar to go through a wall. I use double wall insulated chimney pipe. My entire install was around a thousand bucks for the house. The shop stove was a lot cheaper. Used an all steel chimney, salvaged a double wall insulated section of pipe for the wall thimble. I used about 16 feet of stove pipe inside to save the heat and minimize the chimney materials. My stove pipe goes through a sheet metal wall so I don’t worry about contact combustion.
Some above mentioned your stove or pipe rusting out. Disassemble the stove pipe and clean the stove and chimney every spring as soon as your done for the year. Ash and water form lye which is basic and eats metal fast. My stove pipe is three or four years old and has no indications of corrosion.
Insulated pipe is better for keeping the exhaust gases hot. Rapidly cooling smoke condenses and leaves creosote behind. When creosote burns it is hot hot hot.
Good luck, wood is a great source of heat but you need to know the basics to use it safely.

-- "Man's ingenuity has outrun his intelligence" (Joseph Wood Krutch)

View auggy53's profile


159 posts in 2877 days

#13 posted 03-04-2011 06:09 AM

the proper height for a chimney is 2 foot over a 10 foot clearance . be carefull with that franklin stove they are not air tight and will not bank a fire for long . personally , i would not let it burn without being in the shop . you also need a damper in the flue pipe maybe 18 to 24 inches from the stove to regulate the fire and have a way to choke the fire to go out if need be , there might be a problem there with the franklin , it will suck air even with the damper closed.

-- rick

View fisherdoug09's profile


123 posts in 2872 days

#14 posted 03-06-2011 06:13 PM

As far as I am concerned there is nothing like wood heat. I have been using a wood stove in my shop for 5 years now. Living in Montana we have about 4-5 months that I need to heat my shop and could not afford electric or propane heat. I have used all the correct pipe going through the ceiling and feel very safe burning wood. I do not spray or use any flammable finishes in the winter though. Good luck I think you will enjoy standing next to Franklin to take the chill off. Doug

View Craftsman on the lake's profile

Craftsman on the lake

2831 posts in 3635 days

#15 posted 03-06-2011 06:53 PM

Here in Maine we know about such things. Through the years the expectations for safety have gotten high and with it expensive. The up to code plumbing for this one will be expensive. The little stove you have doesn’t look like an airtight one. The heat from it will be good but a bit limited.

I don’t want to bust your bubble at all and it looks like you really want to burn some of that scrap wood we all produce but here’s my suggestion. Instead of spending maybe $500 to get this little stove installed why not spend about 200 on a 35,000 btu non vented gas heater. It will heat just as well, start with a switch and your 6 weeks of winter is pittance compared to here. It would cost you $50 a year to heat that place for a few weeks. And I’m willing to bet your temps don’t get that low. I mean -20 to +20 like here. Anything over 20 degrees F heats easily.

I had done a review about two years ago of one I have in my shop.At the time I payed $160 for it. It’s three years old now and still running great. Heats well and no issues with it mechanically or operationally. There are other reviews of similar heaters on LJ’s too.

My procom heater review

-- The smell of wood, coffee in the cup, the wife let's me do my thing, the lake is peaceful.

showing 1 through 15 of 33 replies

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics