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Problem with ArmRSeal

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Forum topic by perfesser posted 12-04-2017 06:32 PM 554 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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perfesser

12 posts in 531 days


12-04-2017 06:32 PM

Anyone else have problems getting Arm-R-Seal to dry to a nice smooth coat in their 60F degree basement this time of year? The piece I finished with one coat and let dry in the garage over a month ago looks great, I can’t get the same finish out of anything since it’s gotten cold and I’ve had to evacuate the garage. I’m thinking 40F is worse than 60F even. I’m also guessing the RH is lower in the house basement.

-- in the garage, making sawdust..


9 replies so far

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bondogaposis

5088 posts in 2552 days


#1 posted 12-04-2017 06:36 PM

If you can get the temp up to 65°F you will have better luck.

-- Bondo Gaposis

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jonah

1921 posts in 3499 days


#2 posted 12-04-2017 06:38 PM

A space heater will help take the edge off the cold and make things better. I’ve not had any problems at ~55-60F, but lower than that I could see being a problem.

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perfesser

12 posts in 531 days


#3 posted 12-04-2017 07:58 PM

the surface is ending up almost gritty as opposed to smooth. very strange. no visible puckering or crazing or anything like that but after drying over night just doesn’t feel smooth. First piece from the garage drying is awesome!

-- in the garage, making sawdust..

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bondogaposis

5088 posts in 2552 days


#4 posted 12-04-2017 08:05 PM

the surface is ending up almost gritty as opposed to smooth. very strange.

Possibly due to dust settling on the finish before it cures, the slower it cures the more dust can fall on it.

-- Bondo Gaposis

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perfesser

12 posts in 531 days


#5 posted 12-04-2017 08:07 PM

gritty on the bottom? I understand on the top. but this is any side. just strange. but it is my first time using Arm-R-Seal also.

-- in the garage, making sawdust..

View Rich's profile (online now)

Rich

3880 posts in 790 days


#6 posted 12-04-2017 08:32 PM

Be sure to strain it before you apply it, particularly if it’s a can that’s been opened already. Also, while some heat would help, just getting the air moving makes a huge difference. If you have a couple of fans around, fire them up. It doesn’t need too point right at the finish, just get the air circulating around it.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

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perfesser

12 posts in 531 days


#7 posted 12-14-2017 10:15 PM

Well the good news is the last piece turned out great! I’m very happy with the last finish on it.

Only thing is how do you avoid getting “dots” on the bottoms from the little drying pyramids. LOL

John

-- in the garage, making sawdust..

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Rich

3880 posts in 790 days


#8 posted 12-14-2017 10:31 PM


Only thing is how do you avoid getting “dots” on the bottoms from the little drying pyramids. LOL

John

- perfesser

You can make a pin board with sharper tips to support the board. I make them by shooting narrow gauge staples up through some plywood, but I’ve seen pros like Jeff Jewitt and Tom Johnson make them using drywall screws, which have a very sharp tip.

Of course the trick is to finish the back side first, so that when you flip it over, any marks left by the pins are on the back and you have a clean coat on the front.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

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wood2woodknot

97 posts in 2174 days


#9 posted 12-15-2017 01:33 AM

How big is the piece? Can itbe tented or covered with a large box? A light bulb safely enclosed with it might give enough warmth to help dry it quicker. Just make sure the lamp is far enough away from anything combustible. Remember leaving a light under your car in zero weather?

-- ajh

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