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Milk Paint over Danish Oil

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Forum topic by JADobson posted 12-03-2017 04:59 AM 649 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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JADobson

970 posts in 2020 days


12-03-2017 04:59 AM

Topic tags/keywords: milk paint finishing

Hi all – I tried adding a stripe of milk paint (1/16” wide) on a box. The box is finished with three coats of Watco Danish Oil (walnut). I pulled the masking tape off and almost all the paint came off with it. I had made test pieces where it worked fine. I think my paint was a bit thicker on the box then on the test piece, but not significantly. Any thoughts on what might have gone wrong? I also got a weird discoloured stripe where the paint came off. Thanks.

-- No craft is very far from the line beyond which is magic. -- Lord Dunsany


14 replies so far

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ArtMann

842 posts in 725 days


#1 posted 12-03-2017 08:31 PM

If the oil is the least bit wet or uncured, no water based paint or clear coat will stick. I would have some doubts about an oil finish ever supporting a water based paint.

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dubois

41 posts in 1740 days


#2 posted 12-03-2017 08:37 PM

The oil is permeable and it and the wood have taken on moisture from the paint leaving a dark stripe which will probably fade away soon, if not by the time you read this.

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JADobson

970 posts in 2020 days


#3 posted 12-04-2017 04:06 AM


If the oil is the least bit wet or uncured, no water based paint or clear coat will stick. I would have some doubts about an oil finish ever supporting a water based paint.

- ArtMann

Thanks Art. Do you think a coat of shellac would help?

Dubois, line is still there. Hopefully it won’t matter as I’ll paint over it if the shellac works. Thanks.

-- No craft is very far from the line beyond which is magic. -- Lord Dunsany

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

4611 posts in 2260 days


#4 posted 12-04-2017 05:44 AM

I’m not convinced that Watco Danish oil ever fully cures. In any event if it does, it takes a long time.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View Loren's profile

Loren

9981 posts in 3557 days


#5 posted 12-04-2017 06:20 AM

Scrape off the paint, re-oil and let cure
for 30 days. Apply shellac. The paint may
stick but more shellac will need to go over
to keep it on.

I’ve seen paint stripes buried in film finishes
on guitars. Scuff sanding the layer the
paint goes on to 220 or so should help the
paint adhere better.

My idea is theoretical, but I would do it.

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JADobson

970 posts in 2020 days


#6 posted 12-04-2017 08:23 PM

Thanks Loren – I’ll give it a try and report back. Might not get to wait the full 30 days as I need this for Christmas though.

-- No craft is very far from the line beyond which is magic. -- Lord Dunsany

View bilyo's profile

bilyo

126 posts in 1011 days


#7 posted 12-07-2017 04:40 PM

Have you tried using an oil based paint for the stripe?

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JADobson

970 posts in 2020 days


#8 posted 12-11-2017 09:27 PM



Have you tried using an oil based paint for the stripe?

- bilyo

That would be the easy solution but I already had the milk paint and have painted the bottom panel. I want to keep the same colour throughout the piece and don’t want to buy more paint. I’ll probably go without the stripe if the current plan doesn’t work.

-- No craft is very far from the line beyond which is magic. -- Lord Dunsany

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bilyo

126 posts in 1011 days


#9 posted 12-13-2017 09:49 PM

I understand and I think Loren’s “theory” will likely work. If you haven’t started already, I wonder if adding some japan drier to the danish oil might help it to work better within your time frame. I’ve used it in BLO mixes successfully. Someone with more experience might answer.

View ArtMann's profile

ArtMann

842 posts in 725 days


#10 posted 12-14-2017 02:48 AM

I know it is a little late this time around but try to ask here before you try a new finishing schedule. In this case, lots of people could have told you to either stick with all water based materials or stick with all solvent based materials or take some very careful precautions before using both.

View JADobson's profile

JADobson

970 posts in 2020 days


#11 posted 12-14-2017 06:40 PM



I know it is a little late this time around but try to ask here before you try a new finishing schedule. In this case, lots of people could have told you to either stick with all water based materials or stick with all solvent based materials or take some very careful precautions before using both.

- ArtMann

The worst part is that I know all this. Just wasn’t using the old thinking cap.

-- No craft is very far from the line beyond which is magic. -- Lord Dunsany

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JADobson

970 posts in 2020 days


#12 posted 12-27-2017 01:07 AM

Update: the shellac undercoat worked well. Put on three thin coats of shellac last week. Taped it off and painted today.

I’ll put another three coats of shellac over the paint now. Then this one will be all done.

-- No craft is very far from the line beyond which is magic. -- Lord Dunsany

View John Smith's profile

John Smith

456 posts in 71 days


#13 posted 12-27-2017 01:53 AM

good job !!

but my question for the first try is – - – how long was the tape on after painting the stripe ?

for best results in any masked painting project is to remove the masking tape immediately
after painting. or else you run the inherent risk of paint pull-up and rough edges, as you experienced.

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JADobson

970 posts in 2020 days


#14 posted 12-30-2017 05:53 AM

Weird, I thought I answered this on the 26th. Seems it never posted. Tape came off immediately after the third coat of paint went on. The rough edges aren’t actually too bad. That line is 1/16” wide so its slightly exaggerated.

-- No craft is very far from the line beyond which is magic. -- Lord Dunsany

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