LumberJocks

How to repair this?

  • Advertise with us

« back to Woodworking Skill Share forum

Forum topic by Carloz posted 11-30-2017 05:32 AM 617 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Carloz's profile

Carloz

1147 posts in 708 days


11-30-2017 05:32 AM

I was routing a rabbet in the frame on the floor in an awkward position, slipped and gouged wood pretty bad. The rabbet is to accept a raised panel and the gauge would be visible. This is a big piece already glued together so redoing if is out of the question. So how to fix it?


10 replies so far

View jerryminer's profile

jerryminer

942 posts in 1558 days


#1 posted 11-30-2017 08:54 AM

Chisel out a clean recess and glue in a matching piece (called a “Dutchman”). Then shape the patch to match the work.

-- Jerry, making sawdust professionally since 1976

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

4354 posts in 2426 days


#2 posted 11-30-2017 09:16 AM

Deleted

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View Carloz's profile

Carloz

1147 posts in 708 days


#3 posted 11-30-2017 02:41 PM

A dutchman looks like someone tried to cover a sloppy job(which is true here). What about filling it with black epoxy and pretending there was a knot?

View Rich's profile

Rich

3527 posts in 706 days


#4 posted 11-30-2017 03:24 PM

Epoxy putty. You can find a color that matches quite closely and it works very easily. I had a nasty tear out coping the end of a rail on a bi-fold linen closet door. Worse, it was on the lock rail on the face that showed. The repair is virtually invisible. You can blend two colors to get a better match if necessary, or even add pigment when kneading. I always do test pieces before doing the repair.

One tip is to keep the lines between the fill and the epoxy uneven. A straight line catches the eye.

This is what I’ve posted to two repair questions recently about the putty:

Several companies make epoxy putty sticks in a variety of colors. It’s like a cannoli with resin and hardener in a concentric tube. You slice off a piece, knead it until it’s uniform and you have maybe 5 or 10 minutes to press it in place. Keep your fingers wet so it doesn’t stick to your hands. After around 20 minutes, you can carve it to get the basic shape, and after an hour or two, you can sand it and, if needed, touch it up with some stain or dye. Hit it with some aerosol lacquer and you’re set.

Like I said, several companies make it, my preferred brand is Mohawk. Check out their youtube videos for more details.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

5739 posts in 2930 days


#5 posted 11-30-2017 03:58 PM

I’ve always been happiest when I replace errors. The milling operations are fresh in your mind, so it’ll be quick to replicate. The existing pieces can be broken down and milled into parts for your next project.

It does sting when you’ve already done the glueup though.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View TungOil's profile

TungOil

1006 posts in 612 days


#6 posted 11-30-2017 05:54 PM

its hard to tell from the photo, but is it in a place where you can do a rip cut to remove the entire ‘bad’ side of the rabbet, then glue on a this replacement strip? sort of a very long skinny dutchman that would not look so obvious, appearing more like a glue line.

-- The optimist says "the glass is half full". The pessimist says "the glass is half empty". The engineer says "the glass is twice as big as it needs to be"

View CharlesNeil's profile

CharlesNeil

2434 posts in 3987 days


#7 posted 11-30-2017 05:56 PM

I was just getting ready to say the same thing Tung oil said.. I agree

View EarlS's profile

EarlS

1521 posts in 2465 days


#8 posted 11-30-2017 06:25 PM

I think I would go with epoxy like Rich mentioned and make it look like a knot. I’m not sure I would want to invest the amount of time it would take to rip the messed up part off and figure out how to put a replacement in it’s place plus I would always worry if the replacement would hold up since it is a thin strip glued onto the rest of the board.

-- Earl "I'm a pessamist - generally that increases the chance that things will turn out better than expected"

View Rich's profile

Rich

3527 posts in 706 days


#9 posted 11-30-2017 06:30 PM

The picture shows it’s glued up, so ripping wouldn’t be an option. Frankly, Willie’s suggestion is the best one; suck it up and do it again. Cut up the damaged frame and use the wood somewhere else.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

View MrRon's profile

MrRon

4986 posts in 3360 days


#10 posted 11-30-2017 08:07 PM

That is pretty easy to fix. As noted above, cut out a dutchman and patch with good wood. You probably have scrap of the same wood, so it will be easy to match. Just glue it in and shape with plane/chisel/sandpaper. A little wood filler and you won’t even notice it. I make mistakes like this all the time and don’t even blink an eye: easy fix.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com