Seeking Shop-Built Thickness Sander Advice

The sandpaper comes in rolls so drum size doesn’t really factor into it.

-- I am always doing that which I can not do, in order that I may learn how to do it. - Pablo Picasso

This is a pretty good tutorial on building one

-- I am always doing that which I can not do, in order that I may learn how to do it. - Pablo Picasso

Have you seen the article in Shopnotes on building one. If not PM me.

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

I have an 18” drum sander that I got as a kit from

http://www.stockroomsupply.com

You can see mine at:
http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showphoto.php?photo=13926

The key to using it is to have uniform feed speed, which is by hand.

It works…

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=1389"

Blake the angle of the sandpaper is determined by how wide the paper is and how wide the drum is.

If the paper is 3” wide and the drum is 18” wide you would have 6 loops on the drum with a taper at the beginning and a taper at the end. So in reality you could use 9 loops of 2” paper or 3 of 6” paper. (probably not practical)

The drum size is kind of your call and what is available. You might have to figure out the HP that might be required to sand a wide surface on a 32” drum though.

-- Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com

Would you like me to measure my Performax?

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

Blake

Try this site for calculating the pulley size Vs drive speed http://www.csgnetwork.com/pulleybeltcalc.html

As already stated the sand paper grain is determined by the project – just make sure it is easy to change – or alternatevly make several drums with different grades of paper which can also be easily interchanged.

The larger the sanding (contact with wood) area and the depth of cut (ammount of material to be removed) will determin how much power you need, also do not forget that the grit size also affects this. using 40 grit creates more resistance than using 400 grit – I would use you existing motor for a trial, if it is not up to the job, then buy a bigger one. you will not have wasted any money.

-- Tony - All things are possible, just some things are more difficult than others! - SKYPE: Heron2005 (http://www.poydatjatuolit.fi)

Blake, as Joe pointed out, I would seriously consider some kind of feed mechanisim. Maybe not have it right now, but consider it in your design. I can tell you from experiance that it makes a world of difference. Even a hand cranked belt would be better than trying to push it through. It doesn’t have to go fast, just smooth. Any noticiable pause will cause a snipe.

-- Stevethepeeve -- I'm no rocket surgeon

I am also thinking about making one of these sanders, but have thoughts of using a roller from a old ringer washer with a heavy grit of sand paper attached to it for grip. My thoughts were to mount it underneath with the crank to the side of the adjustable table…..... Now my concern is with the down pressure to turn the crank then the up pressure to turn it will it leave an uneven surface? I guess trial and error will answer that.
If that doesnt work I have an alternate solution (maybe), add a low rpm motor with the correct pulley config. as to not drag down the feed motor. I have many more hours of contemplating to do before I begin.
Maybe this will help in the construction of yours….Take care and good luck!

-- A duck that brags on his own pond, soon swims alone.

I am thinking of building one of these as well. I was thinking of using an additional smaller motor to turn the large belt for the lumber to ride on. This way I wouldn’t effect the main sanding motor and could also set it up with a step pulley to give me a couple different speeds.

Looking for to your design and pictures.

-- Kevin, Wichita, Kansas

I made a 2 1/2” diameter x 15” sanding drum out of red oak on my lathe. It works very well on 1 HP, although you need to have some method to vary, or step down the speed from 1750 rpm, otherwise, results will be poor, and you will waste a lot of sandpaper. It is important to consider dust collection as well, as this thing can really throw out the dust!

The plan for this sanding drum is in “Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone” by R. J. DeCristoforo. The late DeChristoforo was a very prolific woodworking author and authority. This book has gone through several editions through 30 years or so, but I believe that the plan for the sanding drum is in all of them. It would be easy to find one of these books on one of the several internet book seller’s sites, and not very expensive as well.

-- "Heaven is North of the Bridge"

It looks like you’re going to give it a go! I just got back to the PC after a week away & it looks as though you might now have all the answers you seek Blake. I know you’re already aware of this, but others may not have seen my effort blogged here Good luck with it.

-- Res severa verum gaudium - True pleasure is a serious business.

I in my opinion I would rather by a planer thickneser and a really good sander. I think the sanding drums can run out of grit really quickly and you’ll end up spending a lot of money

-- A. Molloy

I have thought about building one for awhile but we opted to purchase a multiuse unit. We bought a woodmaster. Planer, moulder, and sander in one. I am going to buy a dedicated sander though. I have been pricing them out lately and grizzly has a 12 inch benchtop model for under 500.00. In the time it is going to take you to build the “u-push-it-through” model? More importantly, what could you be making in that time by buying a self fed unit? My money is on the purchased model.

-- Chris ( Eaglewoods@sbcglobal.net )

Aaronmolloy, I already have a planer. A thickness sander is a much different tool, and not really for dimensioning lumber but evening up small stock (think small box sides and veneers.)

Eagle, I tend to agree with you on that point for most applications. But $500 bucks for the “cheapest” benchtop model? Its just outrageous. Planers don’t even cost that much. It’s just a spinning drum. Sheesh. I finally decided to build my own when I realized how easy and cheaply I could make a small sander. I will keep my eyes open for a good used sander over the next several years when I need to upgrade.

Everyone else, thanks for the info.

-- Check out my new website! http://www.theeasellife.com

Gary: sure, if you could, thanks!

-- Check out my new website! http://www.theeasellife.com

Bringing this back up from the top. i have gone through most of the websites that have been offered up. Right now I am putting the design together in sketchup, but I had some questions about the drum size vs the table height.

If I understand correctly the thickness of the material allowed is determined by how much variance you have between the drum and the tabletop. Thus if I have a drum that is 5” in diameter, I should reall allow for the rails that it sits on above the table to be 2×6s instead of 2×4s?

Also if I plan on having a feed mechanism eventually, are there any gotchas I should be aware of(additional motor, better to hand crank…etc)

If my thinking is correct I would want the feed table to run slow, but my main concern is how to hold the object being sanded in place? The belt would need to have a resistance level greater than the drum sander…any ideas on this?

-- If you can't build it, code it. If you can't code it, build it. But always ALWAYS take a picture.

Did you see that I actually finished mine? If you have any specific questions about the design, let me know.

-- Check out my new website! http://www.theeasellife.com

Yes, your project inspired me. But I am going tim “the toolman” taylor route..hehe

I want to be able to do larger items, I may have to downsize, but im working it out right now.

-- If you can't build it, code it. If you can't code it, build it. But always ALWAYS take a picture.

You would be much better off investing in a small open end wide belt sander. Sunhill, Powermatic, Shopfox, as well as other brands work very well. They should be around $1500 to $2000 used, but are worth every penny. You will get the results you want and last many years. These are 15” and 16” open end models. It is worth checking out and keeping an eye out for one. John

-- Oldworld, Fair Oaks, Ca

Heh….sure, I could do that, but then it would never get used because i wouldnt have any money for wood, my wife would kick me out of the house, and I would have to burn it to stay warm. The only consolation would be that maybe karson would let me sleep on his front porch…

-- If you can't build it, code it. If you can't code it, build it. But always ALWAYS take a picture.

just out of curiosity, did anybody considered heavy weight with dumped piston as simple feed mechanism?
suppose you put your material on a board that is connected to heavy weight (through a pulley) on the outfeed side and to a dumped piston (piston inside oil or something) on the infeed side. this should produce consistent feed speed, i think. i even thing that you can get dumped pistons that are adjustable, but i am not sure they are long enough. this is limited, of course – you can only feed things that are as long as the piston

-- The woods are lovely, dark and deep, but I have promises to keep...

I was actually looking at putting rollers on the end and using a central bearing to roll the material through. But I dont know how the material will hold the item through the friction of the roller. You would almost have to have a top roller mechanism that was in line with the drum sander. This would probably defeat the ability to do small pieces then…

-- If you can't build it, code it. If you can't code it, build it. But always ALWAYS take a picture.

Lumberjock Dharger1966 has one he made posted as a project .It has a lot of detail. Hope this helps.

-- Kip Northern Illinois ( If you don't know where your goin any road will take you there) George Harrison