Need help! Can't get my bifold doors square :)

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Forum topic by Sharon posted 02-26-2011 09:53 PM 2539 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Sharon's profile


15 posts in 3222 days

02-26-2011 09:53 PM

Topic tags/keywords: bifold doors ripping square table saw tips

I am using two solid core doors to make a set of bifold doors. I have ripped them in half and am finding that when I put the two pieces together there is a small gap at the top and bottom. So I guess what is happening is that the ends are narrower than the middle. Being the perfectionist I am, if I hang them that way, it will drive me nuts every time I walk past them.

I have adjusted my fence which was slightly out of alignment but it still won’t come out perfect. I have a Ridgid R4511 table saw, you know the one with the granite top, which by the way I only paid $299 for. (little gloat there) Sorry just had to say that ;)

Please tell me if my thinking is correct on this. It seems to me that the blade moves away slightly, kind of bends, as the stock moves through the saw.

I so appreciate all I have learned on this site. Thank you to all of you who share your expertise on a regular basis.

I am hoping someone can help me with this.

-- Sharon, Oregon

11 replies so far

View rhett's profile


742 posts in 3841 days

#1 posted 02-26-2011 10:17 PM

Sounds as if, when you are cutting them on your saw, the door is not tight against the fence on the lead in and exit of the cut. Cutting long pieces on a tablesaw can be challenging. See if you can get an extra hand to help keep constant pressure against your fence as you feed the door through. Watch the fence, not the blade, as you are cutting.

-- Doubt kills more dreams than failure.

View CampD's profile (online now)


1724 posts in 3660 days

#2 posted 02-26-2011 10:49 PM

Could be the door frame out of square and not the door panels.
Put a level against each side of the door frame, my guess is thats where you’ll find the problem.
You may end up putting a center trim strip on one door to cover the gap.
Bifold door frames have to be exactly square.
Good luck.

Ahh I reread and gather that you havn’t mounted the doors yet.
As rhett says, watch the fence while cutting, not the blade.
you may have to flip the door and use the side that hasnt been cut yet against the fence.
BUT, as I mentioned, check the door frame too.

-- Doug...

View allmyfingers's profile


40 posts in 2820 days

#3 posted 02-26-2011 11:19 PM

use a ripping blade and infeed and outfeed rollers to help support the door through the cut. standing on side of door not behind it helps to watch the fence

-- I cut it 3 times and it was still too short?!?

View canadianchips's profile


2609 posts in 3171 days

#4 posted 02-27-2011 12:09 AM

You didn’t mention what kind of blade you are using.If you are cutting a solid core door, you are cutting at least 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 thickness. It might be you have a cheaper blade and is heating up, some blades will wobble when they are hot. (Just assuming). If you have a sharp, good blade you should be able to cut that on your table saw easily.
If your doors are already cut, try planing them straight as well.

-- "My mission in life - make everyone smile !"

View cabs4less's profile


235 posts in 2936 days

#5 posted 02-27-2011 12:22 AM

I’m with canadianships Just draw a striaght paralel line and plane or belt sand to it

ps I would back bevel it also so you can get a nice tight gap in the front

-- As Best I Can

View Sharon's profile


15 posts in 3222 days

#6 posted 02-27-2011 01:29 AM

I am using a finer tooth blade as I am trying to not have too much damage on the edge. I think it is a 90 tooth. I guess I don’t understand what the difference between the types of blades is other than quality and hardness of the metal and size and number of teeth. Can someone enlighten me?

-- Sharon, Oregon

View cabs4less's profile


235 posts in 2936 days

#7 posted 02-27-2011 02:12 AM

For ripping wood a blade with 50 or less teeth is best 60 or more is strictly crosscut the thicker the material you rip the less teeth you need For 2” hardwood a 24 is best. I have a combination blade with 50 t and I use it for everything except ripping 2” hardwood
plywood is the opposite no matter what you doing the more teeth the better again 50 or more is fine you have thin kerf blade and regular kerf reg is 1/8 ” wide teeth and thin +/-3/32 I like thin kerf because its less mass for my saw to have to turn now the 24t rip blade you should get a reg kerf because the extra mass prevent deflection during heavey cuts

name brand is everything with blades a better quality blade will have extra large carbide teeth so it c an resharpened more times as far a coatings go forget about it they dont help or hurt anything

try blades from frued or CMT or forrest

PS: 40-60 bucks is a good price for a good blade and costs like 5.oo to sharpen them and you can sharpen them 10-15 times For what your doing a 50 or less tooth blade will give you a clean cut and a straight one

-- As Best I Can

View Sharon's profile


15 posts in 3222 days

#8 posted 02-27-2011 02:38 AM


Thanks so much! I think my problem is deflection. I will put the 24 tooth blade I have on the saw and see how it goes. I think the door is 1 3/8” thick.

This information is so helpful. I really appreciate it.

I need to make myself some zero clearance inserts to deal with the edge issue. A bandsaw would be so nice for that task. Wish I had more space, I would go buy one.

I will give it a try. I have a feeling this is going to solve my problem. Thanks again.

-- Sharon, Oregon

View Vicki's profile


1106 posts in 3518 days

#9 posted 02-28-2011 07:23 AM

If I visualize the door problem correctly, it sounds llike you could also correct the situation with a couple of washers between the hinges and the frame or a shim.

-- Vicki on the Eastern Shore of MD

View ScottN's profile


261 posts in 2853 days

#10 posted 02-28-2011 01:35 PM

Before I bought a panel saw, I picked up a 10’ piece of c-channel at a local steel dealer and I would use it as a straight edge for my router and use a flush cut bit. Worked awesome.

-- New Auburn,WI

View biglarry's profile


76 posts in 2862 days

#11 posted 02-28-2011 06:05 PM

To add to fingers and cab what works best is a quality ripping blade. As stated the blade will have only between 24 to 30 teeth in a 10” size. But the key to ripping any kind of wood is to make sure that it is a dedicated ripping blade and the teeth are flat ground.

My standard table saw blade is a Forest combination blade and for the most part it does a great job. But when it comes to serious ripping I switch blades. With the ripping blade I get less burning on cherry and hickory and the effort is much easier. Both blades are standard Kerf.

This will not guarantee a straight cut, you still need to make sure that the door is fed straight.

Good luck.

Here is a little article that my clear up some of your blade confusion.

-- "When the going gets tough, switch to power tools." - Red Green

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