LumberJocks

More time to dry ?Oil base top coat or Wipe on Poly?

  • Advertise with us

« back to Finishing forum

Forum topic by jeff posted 11-26-2017 08:46 PM 903 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View jeff's profile

jeff

1059 posts in 3299 days


11-26-2017 08:46 PM

Yesterday I stained a red oak desk using a oil based stain by General…Followed all directions on the product…Temps in Tucson Az. were high 80’s..Its been about 20 hrs since application..Today right about now I went out to apply a oil/polyurethane based top coat by General and the stain was rubbing onto the cloth..I think this not normal and do I need to wait more time to have the stain dry?—-I probably answered my own question there…Also would a wipe on poly be better?...The oil based top coat needs more time between applications…
Thank You,
Jeff

-- Jeff,Tucson,Az.


4 replies so far

View jeff's profile

jeff

1059 posts in 3299 days


#1 posted 11-27-2017 01:26 AM

So I waited a few more hr’s and was able to apply a top coat.I went with General’s oil/urethane top coat.I ended up using a soft sponge brush and it worked well.It looks great.I will determine if I want to apply a few more coats after the first dries.
Jeff

-- Jeff,Tucson,Az.

View MJCD's profile

MJCD

505 posts in 2206 days


#2 posted 11-27-2017 03:30 AM

Jeff:

It’s quite normal for an oil-based product to take this long, and longer.

First, Red Oak is an ‘open-grain’ wood, which means that more finish seeps below the wood surface, and takes longer to dry. Secondly, it’s important to during application to ensure that you wipe-off any excess finish as soon as you’ve applied a full coat – otherwise, you’ll have pooling on the surface (once all of the pores are filled). Lastly, oil-based finishes simply take longer to dry… in the high 80s, you should have been OK, as long as the humidity was reasonably low (in Tucson, it should be).

There is no upside to rushing an oil-based finish – you have to let it fully cure; otherwise, you’re asking for poor results.

Regarding your question on wipe-on poly; my two-cents is that you need a quality product – not the Minwax version you find everywhere. You may want to cut it 1/3 with Minerals Spirits. Also, a water-based top coat can go over a fully-cured oil-based seal-coat. Water-based dries much more quickly.

That said, there are many reasons why individuals still prefer oil-based to water-based finishes.

MJCD

-- Lead By Example; Make a Difference

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

5983 posts in 2033 days


#3 posted 11-27-2017 04:58 AM

I rarely stain, but do usually get a bit of it lifted up on the first coat of wipe-on poly no matter how long I let it dry (which is usually at least a day). That said, after the first coat, all is good. I make my own wipe on as well – no reason to pay a company to mix in some mineral spirits for me. A 50/50 mix is easy to make, and you don’t have to be exact. Initial coats dry quick – like 10-15 minutes or less, and you can usually slap down 5-6 coats easily in a couple of hours (and no need to sand between).

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View jeff's profile

jeff

1059 posts in 3299 days


#4 posted 11-27-2017 07:18 AM

MJCD-thanks for the help.The oil base top coat has turned out well.I’m very happy with it.Applying it with a sponge was easy and it seemed to lay out nice and uniform.Never thought about a open grain wood taking longer to dry.
Brad,I never mixed any finishes before but have a few shop pieces that could use a wipe on poly-I will try it some time-thanks.

-- Jeff,Tucson,Az.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com