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Jobsite Sawstop table question

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Forum topic by 12bar posted 11-24-2017 08:01 AM 362 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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12bar

10 posts in 367 days


11-24-2017 08:01 AM

Topic tags/keywords: tool skill

I want to use a dial indicator to cut 1/4 sawn wood for guitar sides. My plan was to take a strong magnet and glue a dial indicator to it. Then zero out the dial indicator against the saw blade with the magnet holding tight to the table. Then move the fence with the wood to be cut to .070 over toward the dial till it registered.070. Then place magnetic hold downs next to the wood and cut the wood to the thickness I was wanting.
The problem came when the magnet on the dial indicator would not “stick” to the table top. The top I believe must be aluminum with a coating over it. So now I have no idea how to get a dial indicator to work to do what I want other than possibly somehow using the miter slot with steel in the slot and mounting the dial indicator to it the steel in the slot. If , and only if, that would work I am still faced with how to hold the wood to be cut to .070 tightly to the fence since again the table top is aluminum.
Any suggestions as to how best to do both procedures would be greatly appreciated. Thanks midnight shadow


10 replies so far

View jmos's profile

jmos

797 posts in 2208 days


#1 posted 11-24-2017 01:19 PM

You’re trying to cut thin strips on a tablesaw, there are a lot of ways to do that safely (and a number of ways that are not very safe.) Search on Youtube and you’ll get a bunch of videos; most come down to placing a fixed stop on the opposite side of the blade as the fence, making your cut, then bumping the fence over until the stock hits the stop for the next cut.) Trying to cut the thin strip between the blade and the fence is very likely to kick back on you and ruin the strip.

The issue I see with the dial indicator idea is that it will be pretty fussy setting the fence for each cut to get exactly the thickness you want. Do the setup once to set the stop block (set stop, test cut, measure, adjust stop, repeat until stop is where you want it.) Use scrap wood for the test cuts. You could use your dial indicator to measure the thickness of the test cuts, if you don’t have calipers. Once you have the stop set at your desired thickness, you can batch out strips; no need to measure each one.

If you insist on using the dial indicator, sounds like you’ll need to mount it to something and clamp that base to the tablesaw.

-- John

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GR8HUNTER

2966 posts in 551 days


#2 posted 11-24-2017 03:08 PM

first thing to do is take dial indicator out of this problem …..as this is causing a lot of your problems …..do you own or have access to a band saw ?? this is how I would do it …...GOOD LUCK :<))

-- Tony Reinholds,Pa. REMEMBER TO ALWAYS HAVE FUN

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johnstoneb

2641 posts in 2011 days


#3 posted 11-24-2017 03:36 PM

No matter how you resaw you will have to use a planer or sander of some type to remove the machining marks and bring the wood to final thickness. Dump the dial indicator first. a table saw is not the best tool for resawing width that you need for guitars. I would rethink your plan.
1/4 inch is awfully thick for a guitar, I have built several mountain dulcimers and use a maximum of 1/6 for them and ukulele plans I have call for wood thickness down around .070. A bandsaw would work much better and you would only need 1 or 2 glue joints for the front and back instead of the 4 or 5 you would need with a table saw resaw.
1/4 is rather thick for instrument sides and much more difficult to bend than 1/8.

-- Bruce, Boise, ID

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12bar

10 posts in 367 days


#4 posted 11-24-2017 05:17 PM

John you are suggesting exactly what I wanted to do. I would only use the dial indicator once and then put, I thought a stop on the side of the saw blade. The two problems both have to do with the aluminum table on the Jobsite Sawstop machine. I can not get anything to stick to the top on the top on the table to hold the .070 slices that I want.

Bruce I am notcutting sides for bending at .250 I’m cutting .070 sides for ukes. When I cut sides for guitar I cut them much thinner than .250. I usually cut the at about .110-.120.
In the past I have always cut sides using the bandsaw. Two days ago I was helping a friend cut sidesfor ukes. We set the dial indicator up to Zero on the side of the blade and then put the wood up to the teeth and moved the fence over till we got the .070 thickness we wanted . Then we put a heavy magnet on the steel table and cut each strip. I checked each slice as it came off. We were getting .070 – .085 mainly. Using the Forrest blade we were using all that was going to need to be done was a very little hand sanding or a little use of a scraper.
When I have cut side using my band saw there has been much more finishing such as running them through the planner after the through my drum sander.
Seeing how my friend was doing it seems to involve fewer steps and was more accurate. So I was trying to do this on my Jobsite Sawstop but since I couldn’t get a magnet to stick because of the aluminum tabs. So I’m trying to see how I could do it.
Thanks for any help again.

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jmos

797 posts in 2208 days


#5 posted 11-24-2017 06:10 PM

Magnets aren’t the only option. You can clamp a board to the table as a stop, or use a featherboard (or something else) that mounts in the miter slot as the stop.

-- John

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MrRon

4496 posts in 3082 days


#6 posted 11-24-2017 06:37 PM

You don’t need no stinkin’ dial indicator. Just take trial cuts on scrap and measure with a micrometer until you get to the thickness you want.

View Dark_Lightning's profile

Dark_Lightning

2922 posts in 2948 days


#7 posted 11-26-2017 01:04 AM

The Incra fence is the perfect tool for what you want to do. You can move it in 1/32” increments. If you move it 3/32” at a time, all you will need is a little sanding to get to .070. You can probably find one used for around $200. If you don’t mind removing the fence rails already on your saw, have at it. I’ve seen it done, and eventually want to put one on my JSS (I already have it, just haven’t got to that line on the list of things I have lined up to do). Check around here for examples. I know that people here have done this upgrade. It’s feasible for me because I have no intention of trundling the thing off to a job site.

-- Random Orbital Nailer

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woodbutcherbynight

3647 posts in 2248 days


#8 posted 11-26-2017 01:14 AM



Magnets aren t the only option. You can clamp a board to the table as a stop, or use a featherboard (or something else) that mounts in the miter slot as the stop.

- jmos

I made one for someone with this issue recently. His top was aluminum. But he rough cut the pieces first then used the dial indicator to slowly come up on the final thickness. Once set he cut all the pieces and was done.

I am guessing you made something like this?

-- Live to tell the stories, they sound better that way.

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Rick_M

10640 posts in 2219 days


#9 posted 11-27-2017 07:44 AM

To answer the question… use a suction cup, or make the base heavy like a non-mag indicator base and apply something non-slip like silicone caulk or hot glue to the bottom. The springs in DI are not heavy and won’t take much resistance to overcome. Or get set up blocks.

But yeah, I can’t imagine you need dial indicator accuracy on a guitar

-- http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

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12bar

10 posts in 367 days


#10 posted 11-29-2017 12:08 AM

I think I have come up with a plan that will work. I have the Rockler attachment than I can put the steel part into the track and then move the slide over till I get the thickness I want. However it alone is not very accurate so my plan is to use a set of feeler gauges set between the teeth and the roller in the end of the Rockler attachment. once I have the .070 I want I can lock the attachment down and run each slice through with just moving the fence over.
Sorry but I can’t think of what the Rockler attachment is for but it is for repeating cuts of what ever thinkness you want. I’m going to give it a go and see what happens. With the Jobsite Sawstop I will need to do any or all adjustments before I turn the saw on or I will trigger the safety mechanism .

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